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I think I need a new head for my Zenoah OBR Pro Stock

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
I doubt the case is damaged. Just open it up and clean it out. Inspect the bearings, as well. If they feel gritty when you spin them, they'll need to be replaced. Personally, I'd replace them, along with the seals. If you're going to have the case apart, you may as well start fresh.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
I doubt the case is damaged. Just open it up and clean it out. Inspect the bearings, as well. If they feel gritty when you spin them, they'll need to be replaced. Personally, I'd replace them, along with the seals. If you're going to have the case apart, you may as well start fresh.
You got the link for the seal and bearing from Dave for a Zenoah Pro Stock?
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Base on my inspection of my engine.... If I take the cylinder off.... And detach the flywheel.... From the flywheel side I can take the four bolt holding the crank case together off and my crankcase should break in half right?
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
Yep. You might have to wiggle it a bit so it'll separate. Don't forget to take off the clutch plate, as well.
I was hoping I don't have to touh the clutch housing and plate side.... Do I have to? I want to minimize striping hex by repairing what's needed only.
 

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
If you're going to replace the bearings and seals, you need to take the crank out. There's a seal and a bearing on each side.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
If you're going to replace the bearings and seals, you need to take the crank out. There's a seal and a bearing on each side.
I probably won't replace my crank bearing and seal unless they are bad..... If I'm not replacing them..... I wouldn't have to touch the clutch side of the engine and should be able to crack my crank case just by taking the four bolts holding the crank case from the flywheel side out and the crank case should separate?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
You'll still have to take the crank out to inspect the clutch side bearing and to clean up any debris. If you're worried about stripping screws, heat them up before you try to back them out.

But yes, the case will separate if you remove those 4 bolts.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
You'll still have to take the crank out to inspect the clutch side bearing and to clean up any debris. If you're worried about stripping screws, heat them up before you try to back them out.But yes, the case will separate if you remove those 4 bolts.
Deluge do you know any good Allen t screws I can buy from Dave or any hardware store? Going o by those Allen bits you recommended but will need a good quality Allen t too.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
Bondhus makes great hex sets. I have this set, and I haven't had any issues with it.Bondhus 8 Balldriver Allen Wrench Metric T-handle Hex Set

Plus they're made in the US and have a great lifetime warranty.
thanks Deluge.... Now about the piston installation. How do I make sure I did not install the piston backward? I remember the notch where the piston ring band use to completely compress during combustion? That notch should be facing the front where the intake port is at right? And I think for my zenoah piston there is a arrow pointing towrd the rear too on the piston. That arrow should be facing the exhaust port I believe.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
The piston has a mark on top, it's either an arrow or a circle. That mark needs to go toward the exhaust port side of the cylinder.

Here's a pic. You can see the mark on the top of the piston, near the edge.

hpi-15436.jpg
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
The piston has a mark on top, it's either an arrow or a circle. That mark needs to go toward the exhaust port side of the cylinder.Here's a pic. You can see the mark on the top of the piston, near the edge.

hpi-15436.jpg
K..... Wanted to verify :) thanks Deluge..... Will post here if I got more question :) can't wait to rebuild my engine.... Just saving for it..... Got to get all the proper tools and then the head kit.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
It looks like all I really need is a 4mm hex bit for rebuilding my engine and measuring torque. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Now I'm talking about all the important bolts on my zenoah engine.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
That's correct. Don't underestimate the importance of a good hex set, though. You'll use it more than once, for sure.
Deluge, why do they make those hex that has a round end? I guess it helps with the angle when you come from the side huh? Are those end stronger comparing to the regular hex? When do you use those round hex for?
 

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