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I think I need a new head for my Zenoah OBR Pro Stock

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
I ordered these below

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&rt=nc&nma=true&item=380416355599&si=efx2oGXib9TXfSnQOz9zcXiavog%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOC%3AUS%3A3160&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

and

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.4477/.f

:D Very happy.... just a question about the white gasket that comes with the Intake billet. Where do I place the gasket? Should I use it or use the stock one? Oh... I think I just simply replace these gasket with my stock ones :D right?
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
RCDAD said:
Yes, replace the stock paper ones. The Teflon gaskets are nice.
Well... I have those heavy duty gasket ones from Dave :D I assume its best to use the Teflon that came with the intake?
 

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
Use the Teflon gaskets. With the billet intake, you might have to cut the carb bolts. Sometimes they're too long, and it creates an air leak. Assemble the intake, the carb and the air filter off of the engine, with the gaskets. When you have it assembled, look at the back of the intake. If the carb bolts stick out, you need to cut them so they're flush with the gasket surface. Usually, you'll have to remove about 4-5mm.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
Use the Teflon gaskets. With the billet intake, you might have to cut the carb bolts. Sometimes they're too long, and it creates an air leak. Assemble the intake, the carb and the air filter off of the engine, with the gaskets. When you have it assembled, look at the back of the intake. If the carb bolts stick out, you need to cut them so they're flush with the gasket surface. Usually, you'll have to remove about 4-5mm.
Be nice if the intake comes with the bolt. Do you know the exact bolt where I can get it from any hardware store? Size and length? That's if I don't want to cut them :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
The length depends on the intake you're using. Like I said, sometimes the bolts are too long and sometimes they aren't. Just do a test fit and go from there. Cutting the bolts really isn't a big deal.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
The length depends on the intake you're using. Like I said, sometimes the bolts are too long and sometimes they aren't. Just do a test fit and go from there. Cutting the bolts really isn't a big deal.
Once it gets here I will see if it sticks out.... and will report back here.... thanks :D
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
Also, here are the torque specs... ENG_TRQ_SPECS.jpg
Sean from OBR recommends that I should torque my cylinder bolts.... to 80in lb. I believe those are the four bolt holding the head to the crank case huh? The torque spec above recommend I believe around 60inch lb.
 

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
ChuenouXiao said:
Sean from OBR recommends that I should torque my cylinder bolts.... to 80in lb. I believe those are the four bolt holding the head to the crank case huh? The torque spec above recommend I believe around 60inch lb.
The specs I posted are from the Zenoah manual. And yes, those are the four bolts that attach the cylinder to the crank case.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Explosion night shot of my OBR in pieces

It's already reassembled :D Will upload pic ASAP when not too busy :D I torque the crank case bolt and the clutch housing bolts to 60in lb. I torque the cylinder bolts to 80inch lb as Sean recommended. The flywheel nut I torque it to 125in lb. The clutch carrier nut I torque to 60in lb and the clutch pads nuts I torque to 60in lb. Your thoughts guys? So far I can't break in my engine because I still need to measure squish, buy the digital caliper and figure out why my pulley kit is giving me issue.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
ChuenouXiao said:
Sean from OBR recommends that I should torque my cylinder bolts.... to 80in lb. I believe those are the four bolt holding the head to the crank case huh? The torque spec above recommend I believe around 60inch lb.
About the torque spec sheet.... what is the insulator, starter case and tapping screw? Please let me know.
 

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
The insulator is the intake, the starter case is the pull start and the tapping screws are the screws that go into the plastic engine cover. You don't have to torque those self tapping screws, just snug them up.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Shots of my complete engine rebuild and the most important... my Billet intake and teflon gasket. It seems very sturdy to me when I torque to 30in lb as recommended by torque spec. So far base on my limited knowledge on my Billet intake, it seems like there shouldn't be any air leak although I've read about people experiencing that.... I don't think I would need to cut centimeter of the intake bolts and filter bolts so far.... please let me know what you guys think.
 

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