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I think I need a new head for my Zenoah OBR Pro Stock

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
ChuenouXiao said:
Your thoughts on torque wrench?
I use an old school beam style torque wrench. They're easy to maintain and can stand up to some abuse. You don't need an extremely expensive torque wrench for these engines. I believe I got mine for around $20 at Sears.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
I use an old school beam style torque wrench. They're easy to maintain and can stand up to some abuse. You don't need an extremely expensive torque wrench for these engines. I believe I got mine for around $20 at Sears.
Is it necessary to have a torque wrench when rebuilding these engine? Or can it be done just as long as you tighten the screws good enough with loctite?
 

cordy

Senior Member
Messages
2,032
Location
near chicago
I also use a beam style torque wrench.Think I got mine at o`riely auto parts=$11.99. I think you torque them to 5ft lbs,I may stand to be corrected.
 

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
ChuenouXiao said:
Is it necessary to have a torque wrench when rebuilding these engine? Or can it be done just as long as you tighten the screws good enough with loctite?
Some guys use them, some don't. I use one. The manufacturers don't provide torque specs just for the hell of it, they expect you to use them.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
Also, here are the torque specs... ENG_TRQ_SPECS.jpg
Thanks... looks like torque wrench is a good idea...... so this chart should be accurate for my OBR and other 2 stroke?
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
He's using the Zenoah tool. I have that, but it's around $40. You can use two screws, but I'd get the HPI puller. This won't be the last time you'll need to take the flywheel off, so you may as well get the right tool.
Why did he twist his tool so that the flywheel will pop? The tool you recommended here

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.4093/.f

Is it really going to do the job? It doesn't look like it has the feature to twist the flywheel like his Zenoah tool.... :(
 
G

Guest

Guest
No need to twist for removal. The key actually prevents it from spinning on the shaft. They just pop off like the clutch mount.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
RCDAD said:
No need to twist for removal. The key actually prevents it from spinning on the shaft. They just pop off like the clutch mount.
Thanks RCdad for your response, I appreciate it a lot :D .... sounds like it's not that hard to rebuild at all.... Just have to take my time that's all. It's actually fun too. I don't want the easy way out and simply buy a new engine. Just by rebuilding it... I will better understand my engine more. Besides.... this is a hobby.... if you pay someone to do it for you.... you're not getting the point of the hobby :D
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
I'm really thinking about using red loctite for the crank case bolt and flywheel.... what are your thoughts guys? Blue good or all red loctite? It is the engine and it will run hot....
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
Negative. Red Loctite is overkill. A drop of blue will get the job done.
But Deluge, my Jetpro's two bolt.... at first I use blue loctite and it didn't hold it. It vibrated and came loose. Now with the engine.... especially the crank case and the head bolts.... I would think red loctite would be ideal?
 

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
Did you let it sit overnight before you ran it? I've been using blue on all of the engine bolts without any issues. Red is overkill, especially with aluminum parts. Clean the threads, put a drop of blue on the bolts, torque them to spec and you're good to go. You have to give Loctite some time to cure, though. So, let it sit overnight before you attempt to run it.
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
Did you let it sit overnight before you ran it? I've been using blue on all of the engine bolts without any issues. Red is overkill, especially with aluminum parts. Clean the threads, put a drop of blue on the bolts, torque them to spec and you're good to go. You have to give Loctite some time to cure, though. So, let it sit overnight before you attempt to run it.
Should I use carb spray to clean the bolts with a metal brush?
 

ChuenouXiao

Senior Member
Messages
1,590
Location
California
Deluge said:
I use an old school beam style torque wrench. They're easy to maintain and can stand up to some abuse. You don't need an extremely expensive torque wrench for these engines. I believe I got mine for around $20 at Sears.
For the torque wrench... how do you apply it to our L allen wrench? I guess what I'm asking is how do I use a torque wrench with our Allen Wrench?
 
G

Guest

Guest
You can purchase alen bits that are mounted to socket ends.
 

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