Recat rmpage MT break in, engine keeps stalling.

[RampageHopUps]

Yep, that is a good idea. The cold air will make it run stronger.

 

[Phill]

Yep, that is a good idea. The cold air will make it run stronger.

Colder air is actually denser so you get more oxygen.

That's why your 1:1 runs better on a cold morning.

 

[machinebike]

Rode steady for the first time after just break in for 10 15 minutes here and there...

It ran insane for about 20 minutes, then I noticed the engine started to get bloggy and lost power, then it stopped running.

I tried starting it numerous of times, but the only time it started when the chke was on, but when I turned off choke, it stalled.

Also, when the choke was on and it started, I was able to gas it for a few feet before it quit running again.

Havent started since

Any advice?

I checked the plug, it had a spark but it wasn't a strong spark

I hope I didn't run it too hard at first, but I couldn't help myself, it ran insane.

Also note... Before it quit running, iot revved real high like it ran out of gas but I still had 3/4 tank.

And when it tried to start, it would fire up with the choke on but revved high on its own, then stalled again.

 

[Ice_2k]

Sounds like a tank venting issue. Did you try opening the tank gas cap? I'm pretty sure you would have heard a "pssst". If it happens again, try that and see if the problem goes away.

Btw, feels weird that it started at all with the choke on....

 

[designed2survive]

Should I switch to a 5 when running in below freezing temperatures?

No need to. Just don't run it. Isn't winter for rebuilding / building?

Just kidding, personally in extreme cold weather I would only use engine #2 (the one I would not care if something happens to it).

 

[machinebike]

Sounds like a tank venting issue. Did you try opening the tank gas cap? I'm pretty sure you would have heard a "pssst". If it happens again, try that and see if the problem goes away. Btw, feels weird that it started at all with the choke on....

Yeah, only for a second unless I gassed it, then maybe 2 to 3 seconds before stalling, but had a high rev sound.

Could I have damaged the engine for not letting it warm up enough before flooring it?

Although Compression is strong .

 

[talunceford]

Really high rpm? Question to ask would be, did the motor get overheated? Did you tune the carb to a lean condition? What did you do up to the point of where it wouldn't start. Was it just driving or did you adjust the carb at all? To me, really high rpms are an indication of either the idle screw being set REALLY high, or it is a lean condition. Did you notice any leaks around the tank? I know there are quite a few questions in this post, but answers to those can help us help you diagnose the issue.

 

[Phill]

Sounds like tank venting as Ice said

The high rev would be from running lean due to the venting

 

[Ice_2k]

Yeah, only for a second unless I gassed it, then maybe 2 to 3 seconds before stalling, but had a high rev sound.Could I have damaged the engine for not letting it warm up enough before flooring it?

Although Compression is strong .

I doubt that you damaged your engine but you should definetely let it warm up before flooring it, remember they top at about 16.000rpm, that's a lot of revs to be doing cold. I'm sure even starting the engine cold and have it directly rev to 4-5000rpm is doing damage but it is what it is. That being said, maybe some of the more experienced guys can chime in, but afaik the choke cuts the air intake almost completely so I don't understand how it could be running for 3 seconds in that condition.

P.S. High revs and "squeaky" sound is almost certain a sign of lean mix, which is very dangerous. Check your gas tank cap for venting issues, check that your fuel filter is still on the fuel line inside the tank and check your carb needle settings.

 

[Ice_2k]

No need to. Just don't run it. Isn't winter for rebuilding / building? Just kidding, personally in extreme cold weather I would only use engine #2 (the one I would not care if something happens to it).

I don't have a #2 engine And I have such temperatures about 4 months/year, so not running it is not really ideal What do you consider "extreme cold weather"? I'm not going to run it at 0F but how'bout 20F? I was really looking forward to running it on some snow.

 

[alfred e numan]

heat range numbers

all should know--- ngk, nd, the higher the number, the colder the plug. autolite, champion, ect-- the higher the number, the hotter the plug is. yes, champions are made in china, but they still use the american system of numbering heat ranges. just a heads up for everyone here--- d.b. goofy system that should have been corrected decades ago.

 

[Phill]

I don't have a #2 engine And I have such temperatures about 4 months/year, so not running it is not really ideal What do you consider "extreme cold weather"? I'm not going to run it at 0F but how'bout 20F? I was really looking forward to running it on some snow.

Plenty of vids of em running in snow on you tube

 

[machinebike]

all should know--- ngk, nd, the higher the number, the colder the plug. autolite, champion, ect-- the higher the number, the hotter the plug is. yes, champions are made in china, but they still use the american system of numbering heat ranges. just a heads up for everyone here--- d.b. goofy system that should have been corrected decades ago.

I ordered 2 ngk cmr 7 h plugs for the 32 cc, was that a mistake?

 

[machinebike]

Really high rpm? Question to ask would be, did the motor get overheated? Did you tune the carb to a lean condition? What did you do up to the point of where it wouldn't start. Was it just driving or did you adjust the carb at all? To me, really high rpms are an indication of either the idle screw being set REALLY high, or it is a lean condition. Did you notice any leaks around the tank? I know there are quite a few questions in this post, but answers to those can help us help you diagnose the issue.

I was getting ready to launch it off of a 10 foot hill, floored it but it bogged down before take off, then gave it gas again when it landed, revved high for about 2 seconds then quit running.

The only time it would start briefly after that was when the choke was on, but did the same thing, revved high, bogged then quit.

Hasn't started since.

I still new, I haven't added a vent to the tank if that sounds like it could be the problem.

 

[RampageHopUps]

Yeah, that sounds like you leaned out when the fuel tank starved the engine.

 

[talunceford]

I was getting ready to launch it off of a 10 foot hill, floored it but it bogged down before take off, then gave it gas again when it landed, revved high for about 2 seconds then quit running.The only time it would start briefly after that was when the choke was on, but did the same thing, revved high, bogged then quit.

Hasn't started since.

I still new, I haven't added a vent to the tank if that sounds like it could be the problem.

You might look and see if your vent hole on the fuel tank cap is plugged. Some times they get that way. I upgraded my fuel system on "Insanity" (my chimera) to a 3 hole plug, brass fittings and a one way vent. Hasn't given me an issue since I changed over to that setup. Bought all of it over at davesmotors.com. New fuel line as well. I'm running a clear yellow line for the return and supply lines. Helps you keep an eye on whether or not your engine is actually getting fuel. Something to think about. Also, make sure your air filter is good and clean too. Anyway, just some suggestions to try. Look at your plug to make sure it is still in good shape. If all else fails, replace used parts with known good ones. Start marking them off your check list of potential causes. I work in the IT field so that is a typical checklist for me. Look at the most obvious things first. Spark plugs, fuel, fuel lines, fuel tank (then break it down into the individual components from there). The whole setup is a system of sorts, if one component isn't working right, it will affect everything else. Also, were you jumping a lot that day? You might need to check your coil/magent gap just to be sure. Business card width between the coil and the magnet on the flywheel is all it needs to be. Again, I'm not suggesting it could be ANY of those, but from my limited experience, running down that list is a good starting point. Again, look at the most obvious failure points first. If all else fails, reset your carb to factory settings and start there and see if you can even get it to pop over.

Hope this helps some.

Tim

 

[designed2survive]

I don't have a #2 engine And I have such temperatures about 4 months/year, so not running it is not really ideal What do you consider "extreme cold weather"? I'm not going to run it at 0F but how'bout 20F? I was really looking forward to running it on some snow.

I was just fooling around, you can run it during winter. It just takes extra steps to make sure all goes well, that's all!

 

[machinebike]

Thanks for the tips everyone, I' ll start with checking the vent on the tank then go from there.

I ordered an ngk cmr 7h but I read on here that would be a hotter plug than the 5, I hope I can still use it though.

Originally came with a cmr 5 but burned out during break in.

Then I stuck a champion cmr7 and that fired up ran good until it quit.

I checked the spark after it quit, the champion was getting spark but it wasn't a bright/strong looking spark.

Im hoping the ngk will prove to be stronger.

 

[RampageHopUps]

The 7 is the correct plug. And has been for 15 years in the USA. I have no idea why the factory switched it.

 

[machinebike]

The 7 is the correct plug. And has been for 15 years in the USA. I have no idea why the factory switched it.

But which 7?

Seems the champion 7 and ngk 7 differ between hot and cold