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Castle Mamba Monster 2200kv

Dirtconvert

Senior Member
Messages
116
Location
Fremont, ca.
If you didn't add fluid to your differentials when you got the car, shame on you. This forum is full of people telling everyone to check your diffs.( mine were almost dry)( I filled mine to about 1/8 in. from the top of the housing with 7000wt diff fluid) That would be first. Diff fluid is good as a basher for 15-20 hrs, racing should be every 3d - 4th race. IMO. Pull your wheels off and remove your axles to check your bearings. My wheels rolled ok, but upon inspection found them to have disintigrated. Literally, only the races were left!! Since every bearing in the car is the exact same, I would recommend buying enough replacements for all of them(16 total) that way when you check your diffs, you can replace the three in each of the diffs at the same time. I bought mine from VXB.COM. I ended up choosing the stainless over the chromoly because the stainless is rated for 39k rpm and the chromoly for 24k. Load ratings were the same. Kit number for the stainless is 8757 and for the chromoly ( which are actually stronger, 873 -thats 10 bearings to a kit and you will need 2 kits) For the 2200kv CC says the optimum operating temp is 150-160 degrees with a warning at 185 and above. Like so many have said before me, brushless motors are not capable to be run wide open for sustained periods of time with no intervals to cool down. I will run wide open for 10-12 minutes then cool the car down with some half throttle or less driving. When I change batteries, I let the car sit for 10 minutes to give the esc and motor a chance to temp down before going again. Someone else said(don't remember who) "driving your brushless full throttle all the time would be like driving your personal car with the gas floored everywhere you go, you are going to destroy your car." I hope that can at least give you a place to start. Yes, a busted ESC would definately cause the motors to die! I will look for your amperage draw on the cc1600kv motor. Most electronic parts say to allow for 30% in losses due to any number of things from guage of wire, length of wire, connectors, etc... The HW esc is rated at 150a continuous, with the 30% taken into account that would give you are real world operating range of 105A- 150A continuos. My CC 2200kv motor is 120A. Should work fine, but depending on the quality control the day your esc was produced, may be an issue? Do you have anyone close by to swap out your esc to try theirs"???
 
Last edited by a moderator:

lateralrectus

Member
Messages
33
Dirtconvert: As always, thanks for your advice. I will check the bearings and diffs out. Where do you order your diff fluid from?
 

Dirtconvert

Senior Member
Messages
116
Location
Fremont, ca.
just got mine from local hobby shop. I have been using losi diff fluid and shock oils with no problems. I hope between all of us on this forum we can figure something out with your car.
 

lateralrectus

Member
Messages
33
I will check the car out this weekend. I have new bearings on order from Redcat, and I have a new ESC I ordered from Kershaw: it is some new distributor, and is supposed to be capable of 10S. I'm only running 6S on my current setup, but I will try and switch the ESC's out to see if that makes a difference.


More news as events warrant...


I also have speedpassion 1/5 scale motor on order (this is the motor from speedpassion's Baja brushless conversion). I don't have high hopes for this, as it is 1750kv, but you never know!
 

Dirtconvert

Senior Member
Messages
116
Location
Fremont, ca.
Cool. More voltage is only going to result in more rpm's which will result in more heat. Remember the KV rating is the number of revoutions per volt...10s= 42 volts peak (4.2volts per cell fully charged) x 1750kv = 73,500 rpm max. I am positive that motor will not run that!! Most 1/5 scale stuff has been 40-50k rpm max.
 

Dirtconvert

Senior Member
Messages
116
Location
Fremont, ca.
Posted videos on youtube under Dirtconvert. I just did a 7 minute all out, wide open run non stop. It is 88 degrees here today, which is super hot for us!! I remade my CVD spacers so as not to bind up my drivetrain and my results: My ESC temp was 112 degrees, motor temp 153.2 degrees with a WOT runtime of 7 minutes. My motor temps were as high as 165 without the fan but that was also on a cooler day (by about 13 degrees)


IMG_20110619_165209.jpg


IMG_20110619_165150.jpg
 

Cain

Senior Member
Messages
118
Location
Fargo, North Dakota
Any more news on 2200Kv motor usage?

Also, what exactly is the ratio to use? I saw it posted as 3.1 and 4.1?
 

Dirtconvert

Senior Member
Messages
116
Location
Fremont, ca.
Castle was holding up fine actually. The CC speed control was another story! I installed the HW ESC back into the car and had my temps rise about 10 degrees. Never got blistering hot but made me a bit uncomfortable around 180-185 degrees. I have since switched to the Leopard 1090kv with 7075rc mount kit with a 44 spur and a 14 pinion. Car is just about as fast but with gobs more torque anytime I want it and my temps are steady at 127 degrees. I would highly recommend anyone wanting to use the Hobbywing to get the new Version 2 professional.( about 105.00 on ebay shipped). Worlds better than the CC Mamba Monster and just as tuneable.
 

Vision

Senior Member
Messages
177
Location
NY, USA
Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking about using the castle 1600kv motor (1520 motor). Should run a bit cooler than the 2200kv since it's about 13mm longer and lower kv. I was planning to use the original castle MM esc, but maybe I can use the stock hobbywing 150a. Why do you think the version 2.0 (blue case) is better ?. I heard the original model is more reliable ?.
 

killajb

Senior Member
Messages
108
I run the CC 1520 with the stock ESC and all is fine. A little fast with stock gearing, but temps are well in check after both 6S 5000mah packs dump.
 

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