My Homoto gearsafter 3 tanks.

[RampageHopUps]

We talked with Himoto about the gears. They suggest running WD-40 as a lubricant for the first few tanks to wear them in.

 

[IMADMAN]

After looking at clubins and roccos it seems there is more air space on clubins vs. Roccos, could it be an issue with the gear plate or bearings?

 

[hamster huey]

Im glad Im sticking with Redcat plastic gears. I have over 18 tanks on them and still going strong. I believe Mcd plastic gears are softer than redcat so I don't like those. I broke the teeth on my heavy 25t tooth steelies and they had horrible mesh until very broken in so I did not like those. And I use a plastic upgrade gear plate because it holds the bearings with no slop which gets the gear mesh closer together unlike the aluminum plates that don't hold the bearing tight and the gear mesh is a little out. I bet if clubin had a plastic gear plate the unusual wear would be deeper in the V of the gears instead of so far out. Yes I know some of youse bash too hard for plastic gears! 28.5 side dom keep it mild for me! No sand either!

 

[Clubin]

After looking at clubins and roccos it seems there is more air space on clubins vs. Roccos, could it be an issue with the gear plate or bearings?

Mine were tight like that but not any more.


I have another set of 29/31's coming I ordered them before I seen how worn these were. I will try wd-40 on them, and see if it helps.

 

[python]

I use a product from the motorcycle side of things, it's called Chainwax, you want to rip the car up and down the street a few times to get the gears warm, spray it on and let it dry, this stuff really sticks to the gears, i twon't fling off like oils or grease, if you already have oils or grease on your gears clean them off with carb cleaner first, the chainwax will make your gears last 10 times longer, dry metal to metal is never good, and grease or oil do not last, sray the way on every 3-4 tanks, one can will last a very long time even if you have 4-5 cars, just a suggestion,


if anyone is interested i can post it to our website, not sure if i can send airosols overseas or not, it has to be chain wax, not chain lube

 

[DemonRC]

Thanks for the info on that chain wax. I'm going to look into it before I get some runs on my new gears.

 

[camtunkpa]

I run a product called dry ice by sullivan products on my 1/8 nitro gears and CVD's. It's a teflon based lubricant that runs dry and doesn't attract dirt. Seems to work well. Maybe that would help. Thanks for posting the pictures though. I was thinking about picking up a set of metal gears for my TT. Guess I'll hold off a while. My stock gears are holding up well after about a gallon and a half.

 

[Clubin]

I use a product from the motorcycle side of things, it's called Chainwax, you want to rip the car up and down the street a few times to get the gears warm, spray it on and let it dry, this stuff really sticks to the gears, i twon't fling off like oils or grease, if you already have oils or grease on your gears clean them off with carb cleaner first, the chainwax will make your gears last 10 times longer, dry metal to metal is never good, and grease or oil do not last, sray the way on every 3-4 tanks, one can will last a very long time even if you have 4-5 cars, just a suggestion,
if anyone is interested i can post it to our website, not sure if i can send airosols overseas or not, it has to be chain wax, not chain lube

Could you post a link of where to get it? I am going to ry some dry graphite spray... See is that helps.
Funny thing is I have never seen a MCD gear wear this way.

 

[python]

I haven't had an mcd, but i have seen some fg gears pretty bad off, maybe not nearly that bad but here is a link, if not i'll have some up on our site at the end of the week


http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=p301258&leafCatId=&mmyId=

 

[Clubin]

I haven't had an mcd, but i have seen some fg gears pretty bad off, maybe not nearly that bad but here is a link, if not i'll have some up on our site at the end of the week
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=p301258&leafCatId=&mmyId=

Let me know when you have it in stock, you have a few other things I want. THanks, looks like that stuff just might do it.

 

[python]

we will have them friday or monday, i should have already had it up, i been running it on all our cars for along time now

 

[kg2mb]

Try local bicycle shop for chain wax

 

[IMADMAN]

You can try "white lightning"? supposedly you can get it from bike shops. I read a while back Cliff Lett? 1/10 scale high speed racer used the stuff on his spur gear when doing high speed runs. Supposedly to goes on wet but dries and still works great it suppose to help lube the gears without the worries of attracting dirt in the lube.

 

[Clubin]

Clubin can you get a ding in them with a centre punch? i'm going to try a smack one into the edge of mine to see if they're soft or not, you shouldn't be able to get a mark on them if they're hardened right...I'll have my TT back out on saturday so am going to have to go into abuse mode to see if mine hold up, hopefully you got a bastard pair but seems unlikely as they'd just pick them randomly out a bucket i should think...shouldn't have to lube them...both my ramtech sets are still like new with never any lube

I didn't try a punch, they are soft and can be filed very easily! Maybe they forgot to temper mine?

 

[Sucram]

Those gears don't look like they are meshing properly as you can see the wear starts 2/3rd of the way down the tooth. Combine that with an enthusiatic basher and you will have dramas.


Also, the case hardening (if any) will have gone by now, most only penetrate a few thou unless its cryo which goes deeper.


Either the gears were made wrong, the alloy plate is slightly out, the bearings are out etc. Its an alignment problem.


How do the stock gears line up? No good then try the stock backing plate. Guess thats the only way to find out for sure.


The wear looks like a helical gear would if you were overloading them, they spread apart and do that and if further ran will eventually fail.

 

[Sucram]

P.s If you figure out the mesh problem, you could flip the gears and it should be OK on the new thrust side

 

[Clubin]

P.s If you figure out the mesh problem, you could flip the gears and it should be OK on the new thrust side

Can't flip them, they only go one way. I don'ty know how to explain it any better.
The mesh was perfect when the gears were new, but the gears did not seem to have any hardening, they were easily filed, thus wore away very fast. Now there is lots of lash between the A/B gears. I have been trying some different products on the gears with no success, the A gear spins at engine RPM and anything put on it just gets thrown off. I am curious to see what others find with the gears as I was not the only one that purchased them, but it appears I am the only one that is too hard on my stuff. lol

 

[Sucram]

bummer lol

 

[hamster huey]

Some one agrees with me: in addition to your gears wearing fast they are too far apart. That is why I said I went back to the plastic v2 upgrade plate with a vented bell it keeps the contact area of the gears closer together. I see two problems in your pic gears too far apart and metal gears appeat to be wearing fast like you said. Can you harden the gears yourself or will your driving conditions allow you to go back to plastic gear vented cover/no cover?

 

[Sucram]

Im not an expert, but I do have a bit of experience in straight cut gearboxes in cars.


In the below picture, you can see that 2 teeth are mainly in contact and are contacting in the middle of the tooth.





Here you can see the 2 teeth are in (full) contact and the 3rd tooth is just about to contact





Certain parts of the teeth are designed to come in complete contact when 100% meshing. The middle of the tooth and tip is designed to only take partial contact and load. If you put full load on a partial part of the tooth, well they arnt designed to take it and will wear like the OP is seeing.


I have only ever seen this in one car gearbox and it was because the bearing failed.


Another thing worth noting is tooth counts. Certain tooth counts give a better "contact" of teeth and that gear set/ratio will be stronger. Not only that teeth can be made much bigger.


The excessive back lash is beacuse they are worn. But it still doesn't change the fact that the gears are too far apart. It might have been perfect when new but something has allowed it to move apart. Gears don't shrink! You can have the toughest gears in the world, the further apart they are the more likely to fail. Too close and you can feel its notchy. Like I said, could be a bearing, a twist in the backing plate or even chassis. You need to address that first.


It sucks to be in your position. You cant really blame it on the hardening if people are still using plastic gears which are significantly softer (but remained aligned)


don't get me wrong im not trying to argue with you, I don't have anything to do with any RC company. Im just telling it how I see it.


Fix your alignment problem and your good to go.