GTS 666
Senior Member
- Messages
- 1,091
- Location
- AUSTRALIA New South Wales.
It's working brilliant no problems at all.
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No.... I run pavement and highspeed run... just started to have this issue. I think my spring is warping due to age which contribute to un-balance spinning inside the clutch.GTS 666 said:Were you running your car on dirt or bitumen when the clutch carrier broke.
Please do share your experience about the 4 shoe adjustable Elcon clutch.... go pic or site where it's sold?GTS 666 said:I reckon that with excessive braking on bitumen could snap the clutch carrier as the engine is at high rpm and the clutch is still engaged but once you hit the brakes it is to much stress on the carrier. This is just a thought. I'm running a 4 shoe adjustable Elcon clutch that does away with the carrier.
So you're thinking that when the clutch is still engaged, when I smash the brake at high speed, is how i crack the clutch carrier huh? Oh boy... that's seems like alot of mod.... and how do you know you set the RPM correctly? I read that they come loose every once and a while and you have to reset them to keep the same RPM?GTS 666 said:http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.1611/.fThis is the one Im using. Looks very similar to the one you have posted. Once installed you turn the four grub screws down on each corner to increase clutch engagement. You need to put a notch in the clutch housing or purchase the Turtle Racing one like RcDAD has. You also need to drill or dremel a hole in the clutch bell to get access to them.
I believe that it is the hard braking on the pavement(bitumen) that is smashing the clutch carrier.
Do I still need put a notch in the clutch housing and clutch bell for this piece? I don't want to drill anything if I don't have to and want to minimize replacing parts due to cost.GTS 666 said:http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.1611/.fThis is the one Im using. Looks very similar to the one you have posted. Once installed you turn the four grub screws down on each corner to increase clutch engagement. You need to put a notch in the clutch housing or purchase the Turtle Racing one like RcDAD has. You also need to drill or dremel a hole in the clutch bell to get access to them.
I believe that it is the hard braking on the pavement(bitumen) that is smashing the clutch carrier.
Base on your information, it looks promising... but worth it if I don't have to have to replace my clutch carrier due to crack. My other question is how do you replace the clutch shoe?GTS 666 said:To set the springs you turn them down until they touch the brass plate you can feel when they touch. Then turn in 1 and 1/2 turns and test from there. I use blue loctite on the threads helps a lot to keep the screws backing out. You should check clutch wear every 4/5 tanks any way. To adjust the springs it would take about 2 minutes to check and or reset very quick. I simply like the way I can have the clutch engage when I want it to and it is lighter better balanced than a 2 shoe which would be a lot better for the engine seals and bearings. A 2 shoe clutch is basic instal and just run til it chews out the shoes or the spring fails which happens a lot.
The clutch assemble is surrounded by the clutch bell. You need a hole to be able to adjust once it is installed.What exactly do you mean drill hole in the clutch bell? Is that for easier access to the set screw? Is this only for our cats that we have to dent the clutch housing and drill holes through the clutch bell?
Unless you want to uninstall and adjust the set screw and reinstall.. which is a pain in the butt? I assume you guys are talking about drilling a hole on the side of the clutch bell to access the set screw?RCDAD said:The clutch assemble is surrounded by the clutch shoes. You need a hole to be able to adjust once it is installed.
No its me Rcdad... I'm bilingual so I'm a bit slower on the comprehension Appreciate the response!!! Have you used these before bud?RCDAD said:Yep, that's what I meant. Sorry for the typo.
According to Steve from Dave, the Lauterbacher is easier to work on when comparing to the Elcon. I wonder why is that? I wonder if they are basically designed the same? What is the difference? I assume the Lauterbacher has less moving parts which equals less headache... which also contribute to the cost?RCDAD said:I have not. I have read that they are a pain in the a.. to get to work properly. I have always wanted to try one, but I have not had a reason to yet.
I can only give I info on the Elcon as that is the one I have but from pictures they look similar in design. I don't know if one is better than the other.ChuenouXiao said:According to Steve from Dave, the Lauterbacher is easier to work on when comparing to the Elcon. I wonder why is that? I wonder if they are basically designed the same? What is the difference? I assume the Lauterbacher has less moving parts which equals less headache... which also contribute to the cost?
So the set screw.... can you unscrew them and take them completely out for loctite? How do you replace your pads and where do you order them?GTS 666 said:I can only give I info on the Elcon as that is the one I have but from pictures they look similar in design. I don't know if one is better than the other.
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