Deluge
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Anytime, dude.Yannik said:Great, a big thank you for your patience with my questions. I have more trust in the charger now that you clarified several things for me!!
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Anytime, dude.Yannik said:Great, a big thank you for your patience with my questions. I have more trust in the charger now that you clarified several things for me!!
I used to do that years ago when I raced 10th scale buggies. It works well. Now, I just run until the pack is drained. I charge all my packs at 1.5A. You get a better charge with low amps and it won't false peak.Nowheretogojs said:For my receiver packs I Discharge before I charge them just so I know my charger is putting in a full charge. I use a tail light bulb(from any car really) with leads soldered to tamyia connector, Normally runs a high enough draw to discharge in good time(if you wish to discharge quicker add bulbs on a daisy chain). Also you wish your receiver pack to last longer the slower the discharge it will get used to that rate and tend to come down at similar rate during use. I have never tested this but has worked for years. For charging Deluge is right about the peak detection. So you may want to lower the charge amps to keep from heating the pack. This is the reason heli guys and electric racers have switched to lipos they have less of a memory and have much higher discharge rates. But the down side is they heat allot more and you can damage them if discharged too far. The mHa on the packs is a measurement of how many milli amps per hour can be drawn from a certain voltage to a lower limit(I may not be 100%). Also the pack may charge to a higher mHa to reach a target voltage. So the numbers may vary depending on cell quality and age. I say age due to the substances used in them will degrade over time and loose their spunk.
Alright, I will upload the video to my YouTube account and I'll post the link right away after. I got one small thing to figure out and I'm done!!Deluge said:What site? Upload it to Youtube or Photobucket and post the link here.
Thanks bro! That's where I taught it was so I'm glad that you've confirmed it for me! I've learned a lot from you guys because without this awesome forum, it would of been a nightmare trying to figured out everything, specialy the mechanical part!REVOlutionary Rampage said:Yes, there should be a flat spot on the link to the servo.it looks like a nut which you can adjust with a wrench to lengthen or shorten to stop the buzzing.
Thanks Deluge,Deluge said:Steering trim is a radio adjustment. Look in your radio manual, it should tell you where the steering trim knob/button is located on the transmitter. The first picture i posted is a diagram of the servo linkages. The second picture is a diagram of the steering linkages. If you can't get the tires straight with the steering trim, you'll have to adjust the steering linkages. Yes, you adjust the steering linkages the same way you adjust the servo linkages.
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