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Looks great man, love the black. You do gotta crank in those upper links. Most likely you will also have to adjust the tow. Every time I've taken the front suspension apart I've had to re-adjust.
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Fair enough and that makes a lot of sense. A big thanks for the reply.nitrohobbiest said:Uhm, hmm. Well, I am tired of working on it but I can't blame the truck for everything. I've had a long battle with steering servos but that not the truck's fault. But it does add to the frustration. But then I watch as the "Baja" guys snap wheel hub pins, pinion bolts, and some other common faults and I think, "Am I really worse off?" Its hard to say. I put a lot of work into this truck to make it the way it should have been in the first place. but i said before, its not even $600 brand new rtr. Even a basic Baja 2wd buggy is over a grand rtr and its not 4 wheel drive. I don't know what to say. If I could do it all again, I think I would have saved up and bought a used Baja instead. All of the problem areas have a fix you can buy from a number of companies. Redcat has no fix for what I did to it so I had to do it myself. It was rewarding and yet it was time spent that I didn't really have. Right now the truck is sitting pretty well with just a bum gas cap and a shock that needs a rebuild. That's absolutely no worse than a Baja or any other truck. I'd say if there was more promise of future product support, I would feel more at ease with this XT. But until then, I have to grin and bear it. I now have the whole winter to attack the shocks and take a look at the front steering linkage mods that I have been hearing about. By next spring, my Baja buddies will be driving the even more expensive Losi 5ive's so I got to have my game ready.
Sorry, I know I didn't answer your question. I honestly haven't fully decided if I did good with this truck. I'm disappointed that it takes so much work to enjoy this truck. But I'm not the only one working on a 5th scale so I guess I'm not really worse off.
LightForce said:I did this to both MT and XB plus way more . Results were almost bullet proof besides during the 20 minutes race only front housing on XB and diff cups on MT gave up but still happy with the home made upgrades . Wish I could see the rods you were talking about. I couldn't do a plate that I couldn't countersink though. Its bad enough the plate sticks out but then the screws do also? For all the work you went through that extra step would have really made it sweet. That full length plate for the MT came out good. I am surprised you've seen a countersunk aluminum plate crack. I've never seen any chassis crack at a screw hole and most holes are countersunk in thinner material. Maybe if the plate were cast making it more brittle but being that its sandwiched to another member, I don't see a problem there. An adhesive layer would go a long way in making it stable, too.
Find pics of those rods. I'm doing steel tubing for the rollcage but if the rods are working out, that's less welding for me to do, lol! My cage only goes half way. I need to make one that connects the front tower to the rear one and some support in between.
Ahh I see. Other people have mentioned welding. Do you think brazing would hold up...sure would be prettier than screws & boltscordy said:Brazeing is not welding,to weld aluminum you need argon gas. You are correct I believe on the heat treatin . Brazeing is like flow soldering.
When you say you bought aluminum rods from Harbor Freight, are you referring to similar brazing rods to the HTS-2000? Have you tried them yet? Its very intriguing to say the least. I might have done things differently had I known. Not to say mine didn't come out strong but brazing might have been even better.cordy said:OK watch the video of hts-2000 .You will find it very inlightening. Very strong,the rods are available from the uk,dura fix is available here staeside in ohio.I bought 8 aluminum rods from harbor freight for $14. All you need is a propane torch. Put hts-2000 in your search bar you can find it from there.
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