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How the hell is this going to work (aluminum suspension support)

98cruiser

Member
Messages
85
Hey, I bought a new front aluminum diff housing and front aluminum rear suspension support which goes behind the diff housing, but the rod can go right through the rear suspension support cause it has a hole all the way through, unlike the plastic one whhich has the hole covered up. Did I get bamboosled??????????????
 
Last edited by a moderator:

98cruiser

Member
Messages
85
part

countrygnome said:
Wow now that is a perdictament.
Well stupid but question but did you maybe order the wrong part?


Or are there sopposed to be new pins with it with a e clip maybe?
Yes I even confirmed it with the guy from the Nitro shop, so Some one help me out here. if there was some sort of pin or what ever, you think he would have told me or sent it with the part
 

hamster huey

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,372
Location
Wichita
Are the pins supposed to be captured by either a screw or a plastic cover that goes over the alum (like an 8ight)? Could you capture them somehow? I tlooks to me like the plastic inserts can be changed or rotatated to change toe which usually means they are to be captured.


Also there a small chance a running change was made to the part but the part number remains the same. Its happened before.
 

98cruiser

Member
Messages
85
suspension

hamster huey said:
Are the pins supposed to be captured by either a screw or a plastic cover that goes over the alum (like an 8ight)? Could you capture them somehow? I tlooks to me like the plastic inserts can be changed or rotatated to change toe which usually means they are to be captured.
Also there a small chance a running change was made to the part but the part number remains the same. Its happened before.
Ok Hamster, now you can make some sense as to what I was talking about, I posted a pic of the original part, they go infront and back of the diff housing, but as you can see the original part (plastic) has the hole covered up, the guy and Nitro confirmed this was the upgrade part I need but it the rod can go right through the aluminum one???????????? I hope he is reading this as well, cause im pissed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

chevy

Senior Member
Messages
424
Location
Las Vegas
Those are the upgrade/new suspension arm holder they can be adjusted like hamster said, now im not 100% positive but I belive they work with the new pins he sells part # 50038 those pins are secured with a screw or a smaller pin, to get it to work you would have to order another suspension arm holder and the pins part # 50038 I havnt seen them in person but maybe that can help, don't quote me on that but im sure thats how they go maybe Stephen can chime in and give use some insight about the change.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

wurthman

Senior Member
Messages
137
Location
Montreal, Canada
Reply to 98cruiser


Sorry to see you are having trouble with p#054007 Susp. Arm Holder.


As you know from past experience of doing business with me and others on this board can vouch, the most important thing for me is that all my customers are happy.


With that in mind I propose three possible solutions.


1-I solved the same issue on my car by gluing with super glue. (see photo)


2-Although the appropriate pins do not exist I can get one of my machine buddies to make them. This would take a few days to get done but would be free of charge.


3- You could send back the item for a full refund.


Stern Jamurath (98cruiser), please let me know how you wish to proceed and I will see that it is taken care of right away.


Its best to use my email so that I am sure to receive you reply.


Thanks,


Stephen Malek


TheRcNitroShop.com


http://www.thenitrorcshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_0535.jpg


http://www.thenitrorcshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_0534.jpg
 

wurthman

Senior Member
Messages
137
Location
Montreal, Canada
Hey chevy, hamster


The suspension arm holders do not have any pin, screw, holes or cap to prevent the pins from moving around. They can be rotated to change the camber on them. And P#50038 (Pins) are not long enuff 6x94, they would need to be 6x98 or 100mm long and add a grove at each end for a c-clip.


Thanks for the question guys.


Stephen;)
 

hamster huey

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,372
Location
Wichita
hamster huey said:
Are the pins supposed to be captured by either a screw or a plastic cover that goes over the alum (like an 8ight)? Could you capture them somehow? I tlooks to me like the plastic inserts can be changed or rotatated to change toe which usually means they are to be captured.
Also there a small chance a running change was made to the part but the part number remains the same. Its happened before.
My capture guessing was off then. Kind of have to be inventive when installation is unknown. And it is known that part numbers have been updated sometimes requiring other updated parts to assemble so I had to take a guess.


So is it adjustable camber or toe? And can the pins be captured w/o those c clips? The stock pins don't work?
 

DemonRC

Senior Member
Messages
1,846
Location
Houston, TX
Personally, I'd take the version you have because of the plastic bushings and just order the pins in 100mm and e-clip em. You can order 6mm x 100mm or 6mm x 110mm shafts from:


http://sdp-si.com


If you want to make a nice even e-clip slot on the shaft just stick the shaft in a drill and turn it sideways. This way you can use the drill as a lathe. Then use the dremel cutoff wheel to make a even slot as the drill turns the shaft.


Also, the 110mm shafts would be better since it leaves a little room and you can always dremel off what you don't need. Take a look around the internet. I had a place bookmarked once that had those shafts in hardened steel and TiNi coated.
 

Big Bob 13

Member
Messages
55
Location
melocheville quebec
the thing i did for this problem...i simply did a lil hole in the plastic close to the hole and screwed a tiny small flat head screw with a washer to retained the pin on both side...my sc10 retain pin like this so i did the same with my redcat...hope it help!!
 

pipeous

Senior Member
Messages
575
Location
Surrey, BC, Canada
how about using some stock exhaust header bolts? you could just toss a nut on the end and it'd be alike a jammin rc
 

98cruiser

Member
Messages
85
Update after a 5min run

wurthman said:
Hey chevy, hamster The suspension arm holders do not have any pin, screw, holes or cap to prevent the pins from moving around. They can be rotated to change the camber on them. And P#50038 (Pins) are not long enuff 6x94, they would need to be 6x98 or 100mm long and add a grove at each end for a c-clip.Thanks for the question guys.Stephen;)
Well that sounds good but you should not have sold me an upgraded aluminum part that you know wasn't going to work or functional, I should not have to buy a custome part or crazy glue it to make it work!!!!!!!!!! that is just WRONG in all aspects, after running it for 5 min here are the results, and now im down again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you really need to fix this Wurthman (stephan) that was just wrong, its not like I ordered it on my own, I emailed you and ask and you comfirmed it!!! im really pissed suspension coming out.jpg

/monthly_2011_01/583c605f72f0a_suspensioncomingout.jpg.7219b76929ae761ec0881a2cb4c27d7c.jpg
 

98cruiser

Member
Messages
85
results


Ok after putting epoxy on the hole and let it sit for three days, it was nice and hard, So was like, this will work fine, well he is my results after running for about 3-5 mins again, the sh!t came back out, and I thing I lost the plastic inserts which came out with the rod!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I posted a clip not sure if it will work.
 

98cruiser

Member
Messages
85
part

98cruiser said:
Ok after putting epoxy on the hole and let it sit for three days, it was nice and hard, So was like, this will work fine, well he is my results after running for about 3-5 mins again, the sh!t came back out, and I thing I lost the plastic inserts which came out with the rod!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I posted a clip not sure if it will work.
ok sorry for the delay, after using epoxy on the who and let sit for two days, her are the result after about 3-5 mins of running


[ame]

[/ame]
 

DemonRC

Senior Member
Messages
1,846
Location
Houston, TX
You need a refund on that part dude. The amount of time you spent trying to make it work probably made that the most expensive non-working upgrade part to date.
 

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