Won't start

[Guest]

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Sergio]

You guys know this things like the palm of your hands took plug out and it was a 29 comparing it to the guide rcdad gave me so too lean I put new plug and started rigth up still have set the carb but too late it's dark already and just wanted to see that it started one more thing the book says the gap on the plug should be 0.5-0.7 I am assuming millimeters cause it doesn't say and I'm not familiar with the gap tool I'm looking at it and all this numbers I don't see 0.5 or 0.7 I see 1.0,0.8and 0.9 I don't know if I made my self clear anyways if you guys get what I'm trying to say ill appreciate the help once again thank you for you wisdom.

 

[Guest]

Gap should be around.020"

 

[Deluge]

I set mine to .020".

 

[Sergio]

Ok thanks guys thanks a lot

 

[Deluge]

No problem, dude. Glad to help.

 

[rchobby89]

you guys set your plugs

 

[Deluge]

I always double check the gap before I put a new plug in. Sometimes they're off.

 

[ChuenouXiao]

Tuning is quite simple. What I do is start with the high speed needle. Let the engine warm up and do some high speed runs. After the engine is warmed up, lean the high speed needle a 16th of a turn. Do another high speed run and immediately kill the engine, don't let it idle. Then pull the plug and check the color. You basically repeat this process until you get the plug to a brown paper bag color. That's your ideal setting.Here's the perfect plug color...



Now move on to the low speed needle. This is pretty easy. You don't have to check the plug color. You basically want to set it to where it's a smooth transition from low speed to high speed. Work in 16th of a turn increments with this needle, as well.

Once you have both the high speed needle and the low speed needle set, you can adjust the idle with the idle screw. You'll probably have to adjust it after you get the low speed needle set.

Deluge I completely agree with you but the only concern here is pulling the plug out right after you just killed the engine... is probably not a good idea huh? Because it still super hot and all the metal are mushy and easily warp? I'm worried about eventually messing up the threads on the head due to the heat... you know when you release the plug back in forth Your thoughts to be safe on this?

 

[ChuenouXiao]

I always double check the gap before I put a new plug in. Sometimes they're off.

What gap? The gap of the new plug?

 

[Guest]

That is what he means.

 

[Deluge]

What gap? The gap of the new plug?

Yep. Sometimes they're off. They say the gap is set from the factory, but I don't put much faith in that.

 

[Deluge]

Deluge I completely agree with you but the only concern here is pulling the plug out right after you just killed the engine... is probably not a good idea huh? Because it still super hot and all the metal are mushy and easily warp? I'm worried about eventually messing up the threads on the head due to the heat... you know when you release the plug back in forth Your thoughts to be safe on this?

Sometimes I wait 5 mins, and sometimes I pull it right after I kill it. The plug thread on all my cylinders is still perfect. I do put anti-seize on my plugs, though.

 

[Guest]

Deluge I completely agree with you but the only concern here is pulling the plug out right after you just killed the engine... is probably not a good idea huh? Because it still super hot and all the metal are mushy and easily warp? I'm worried about eventually messing up the threads on the head due to the heat... you know when you release the plug back in forth Your thoughts to be safe on this?

Just a note:

You only need to be checking the plug while tuning or to see why you might have a problem, not every outing.

 

[Deluge]

I actually do it every time I run it. I warm it up and do a plug check before I beat on it. I like to see what changes I have to make, if any.

 

[Sergio]

Is it possible I seized the engine like I said the plug was burnt I got the new plug and it started on the second pull but I just wanted to see if it would start but today I tried to run my mt and it wouldn't start and I manage to ruin the pull star so I had to order a new one but now I'm worried that my engine is no longer good. Or is it ok like I said It did started once.

 

[Guest]

It sounds like it needs tuning for sure. Where are the carb needles currently set?

When you have an issue. Change the plug and go back to the base carb setting. 1 1/2 high & 1 1/4 low. That should get you running. Tune from there.

 

[Sergio]

It sounds like it needs tuning for sure. Where are the carb needles currently set? When you have an issue. Change the plug and go back to the base carb setting. 1 1/2 high & 1 1/4 low. That should get you running. Tune from there.

So the engine is good. Won't be able to start it I messed up the pull start I just order a new one but that will take a week. The carb I have 1 1/2 H and 1 1/4 L

 

[Guest]

The base setting is rich. You might be fouling your plugs. What does the new plug look like?

 

[Sergio]

The base setting is rich. You might be fouling your plugs. What does the new plug look like?

Plug has to be good I mean I looks good. When I checked the old plug on the chart you gave me I was afraid my engine was ruined so when I got the new plug I wanted to see if it would start so at this point point the carb was still the way it was so I started it and I soon it fired up I killed it so it only ran for half a minute maybe less and then yesterday I reseted the carb to hsn 1 1/2 turn out and the Lsn to 1 1/4 and this is where the thing would not start I pulled and pulled checked the plug figured maybe engine was flooded but seem ok pulled and pulled and nothing checked the plug again and did some more pulling and then the pull star snapped so that stopped me cause none of my local hobby shops had a pull start so I went and order the fancy TR v2 from Dave 's but that is gonna take at least 5 day I think(hope it takes less) . As long I as didn't ruin that engine I'm happy