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torn down to the chassis

jeeper049687

Member
Messages
73
Location
NEPA
well i've just given up and torn the whole xt down to well, organized chaos on lm work bench. broke a front diff cup, so took both front axles off and was playing around with 2wd, the donuts were really awsome, but then it all when too hell. i must have overdone it. the driveshaft cup set screws came loose and started to spin on the shafts...strange all of them. "did blue loctite".. but worse of all rear wheels must of got really hot rounded both of them out. dang. ok very hot. i have a wheel nut shaped burn on my hand lol :D . so i figured i'd just rip it all down and do everything i've been wanting to do.


1.Screen the engine,


2.lock the rear diff, still want to turn some so leaving the front alone


3.fix the broken front diff cup, anyone try any other kinds of fluids in here other than the R/C silicone? like ooo 75w-140 with friction modifier?


4. cut the rear side windows out and screen for air flow.


5. lengthen the exhaust outputs so my body stops melting, untill i upgrade.


6. i need to make a bash guard to cover up the hole under the center gear, been getting alot of small gravel up in there have some chips in a few gear teeth.


7. paint everything paintable


8. upgrade shocks


9. wait for my new wheels and tires.


10. figure out a sleeve for the diff, and driveshaft cups. "suggestions?"


11. remove led's from body and perminantly install in bumper


so besides those 10 things, and that question about diff oils, im very much open to suggestions, you know don't want to miss anything thats good to take care of when everything is apart. o and WOW, thats alot of freaking screws!!!!!!! :D . was made so much more enjoyable with a good set of long ball end allen keys. these things are a must for anyone with a redcat.
 

jeeper049687

Member
Messages
73
Location
NEPA
before i waste some money do the piggyback shocks fit on an XT. really only want them because they look cool haven't had a problem with my stockers yet...
 
G

Guest

Guest
They make two versions. There is a x series version. The MT version do work by drilling out the shock tower as they take a larger bolt.
 
G

Guest

Guest
o and WOW, thats alot of freaking screws!!!!!!!
You should really check out the RC Screwz kits. The stainless hardware will save you the headaches of stripped screw and bolt heads.
 

Trip..

Senior Member
Messages
450
Location
Canton Michigan
As far as the diffs, 80-90 or 75-140 isn't very thick compared to the silicone oils, so it will have no effect on the diff action, plus it stinks. If you really want to lock the rear diff you can use silly putty (the stuff in the red egg) that will slow the diff way down, but will still allow some flex when you come off the ground and land on just one wheel. You can also pack the diff with 2 part epoxy (JB Weld) But it will never come back apart, ever. It will make the entire rotating assembly one piece, so if you land funny off a jump, while on power and only one wheel hits the ground, all that shock will be transferred to your dogbones and will likely snap them.

Whatever you decide to use, be sure to clean the spiders and pins completely, you need to take them apart and wash everything separately. Start with brake cleaner and your sister's toothbrush then do a final washing in the sink with dishsoap (I like Dawn) and hot water. you need to remove the silicone oil or else the epoxy will never stick and will make a mess.

I have an FG Marder and the diff isn't sealed so I can't use oils, so I've done the silly putty and jb weld treatment. I didn't clean my gears thoroughly the first time and the silly putty turned into a stringy mess and took forever to clean out. So the second time I packed the diff with jb weld after I smoked one of the spider gears. I cleaned for half and hour and packed the diff completely full making sure to rotate the spiders to thoroughly coat them. It's held up well for the past 6 mos, but I would only do this if the diff is trashed and it's just going to get tossed in the junk anyway. But Redcat diffs are very inexpensive compared to the $80 FG diffs, so do whatever you want.

After you lock the wheels together the car will handle in a completely different fashion. I didn't loose any steering (understeer) but now if I'm not careful it will spinout around every turn or bump on the track surface (massive oversteer). Doughnuts are cool when you want to do them, but doughnuts suck when you are trying to drag race your buddy on a paved surface and you hit a worm, cigarette butt, twig, grain of sand etc... and your car goes spinning off like a coked up tornado without your consent.

So there you go, a locked diff will break parts and make you car handle like butt... But it will do doughnuts, even when you don't want it too.
 

jeeper049687

Member
Messages
73
Location
NEPA
Yes for right now I haven't really accomplished much othe than the engine screening and fashioned screen around the pull start. How many sets of spiders are supposed to be in a diff? The front only had one set. Did I get jipped? I've seen visa online and it seems like there should be two sets. Where's a good place for that screwz kit?
 
G

Guest

Guest
I need to order myself a few more of those kits. I've been sharing the couple I have between all the platforms. I'm about out of hardware.
 
G

Guest

Guest
jeeper049687 said:
Yes for right now I haven't really accomplished much othe than the engine screening and fashioned screen around the pull start. How many sets of spiders are supposed to be in a diff? The front only had one set. Did I get jipped? I've seen visa online and it seems like there should be two sets. Where's a good place for that screwz kit?
I bet that video was of a MT, TT or DR.
 

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