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Rampage MT dependability?

kryptonite

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,092
Location
on-du-run.
also futaba 2.4 has a built in failsafe:D and jiga. i guess you could use the linkages as an e.p.a..just a little backyard for me.. thats all. not really saying eather one is right or wrong, but i have always had a basic radio with e.pa.'s thats all.


this thread has gottin way off topic
 

jigawatt

Senior Member
Messages
199
hamster huey said:
Offhand, 2.4ghz radios that have failsafe built in Spektrum, Nomadio, Futaba, Airtronics. However if you don't reprogram them from stock settings you'd never notice the failsafe. Of if youre good you always turn your car on second and off first youd never enter failsafe mode to notice. I use mine. Do you know if the 2.4s failsafes might cause problems? I have not had any but I can see how a seperate failsafe between the receiver and servo could cause problems.
Also 2.4ghz w/failsafe: Tactic, ko propo, Traxxas
I don't think that a failsafe programmed in the radio would be problematic. I'm still traumatized to even think about using it due to the past of having those you have to plug in between the desired servo (although I'm confident that my radio doesn't have a failsafe feature built in). Those things cost me a bit of money!


And Kryptonite... I've always had radios with EPA's too, but they aren't a minimum requirement :D If someone's on a tight budget (like this economy for instance), knowing what other features do to make up for one missing, is awesomeness. The spring/fuel line thing, thats a big reason why they are there... otherwise we'd go w/o them ;) (the linkages with springs/lines). Oddly enough, the only time I'd use EPA is in electric racing. Yeah, believe it or not! I'd use it strictly for limiting max power though since my esc's at the time didn't have fancy features ESC's do today.


But going back to durability and dependability... are the suspension arms that were included in "upgrade kits" any stronger or are they just extra pairs that we got for spare parts?
 
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hamster huey

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,372
Location
Wichita
I have wondered the same thing but I have hardly needed any of my spares from the hopup kit. Ill probably never know because when I crash I crash big and big crashes would destroy even aluminum. For some reason I never lightly crash.
 

jigawatt

Senior Member
Messages
199
thankfully my crashes are graceful! Knock on wood, cuz I have yet to break a part from crashing. I have however, ripped things apart and melted shtuff from having too much power! I'm using them as backup parts... probably gonna boil the suspension arms to give them some extra flex.
 

kryptonite

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,092
Location
on-du-run.
jigawatt said:
But going back to durability and dependability... are the suspension arms that were included in "upgrade kits" any stronger or are they just extra pairs that we got for spare parts?
im thinking they are extra pairs. ive broken them just as easy as the stocker. i cant be 100% sure becouse everything in the upgrade kit is supposed to be an "upgrade" so i don't know why they would just thro in extra plastic..
 

nitrorulz

Junior Member
Messages
16
While i'm asking the dependability questions here and getting fast responses, I have another one! :D I've been reading up on this thing off and on all day and came across the heat treated cup delima several times! Whats up with that? Again, is this mostly the bigger motor s causing this, or is a stocker like I say i'm gonna leave mine for awhile gonna get hit by this too?


Like I was saying, no big jumps for me, and the stock 23cc and maybe a pipe will be all I do for awhile! If I don't beat the snot out of it, grab 10 feet of air, or strap in 6 h.p. is this probally not gonna be a problem til I do add all the power goodies?
 

jigawatt

Senior Member
Messages
199
I didn't have problems until I bolted on the DDM side pipe... my last venture with melted gears was through a grassy field (3 ft tall grass).


As far as the arms go, better plastic or not, sure as heck beats having to replace these than replacing bent aluminum arms!


And speaking of which... of all the redcats I've had, I have yet to break a plastic part from redcat! I am floored :D When I had a tmaxx, I broke parts every tank... when I had kyosho... broke one bulk head and a shock tower. So far so good!
 
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kryptonite

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,092
Location
on-du-run.
nitro. the guys that are tempering are not only running super sik mills but are also well nown for destroying perfectly good parts(yes, thats you mr.moo!) the temper has seemed to work for them. you can buy the tempered cups from rob and they are the same price as the regular upgraded diff cups. im running a 28.5 with an X-can, and have only broken a diff cup while doing absolutly stupid things on dry black top. most of my brokin diff cups have been on the outside from the dog bones pelting out..


and for you my freind jiga: the alum on the old nitro redcats was complete trash and bent very easy. the alum on the 5th scale line is completly diffrent. absolutly strong and worth every penny. i have completly beat my alum suspension to no end for many gallons. i have clipped 2" galvinized pipes at full throttle, lounched off 15' cliff with a nose plant, bounced off trees and anything else i could hit. it hasnt tranfered the damage else where, and i havent bent anything at all.. its worth every penny to now i can bring my rig home in one peice.
 

jigawatt

Senior Member
Messages
199
nitrorulz said:
Are you referring to the cup problem I was asking about when you typed that?
I haven't destroyed a cup, I just manged to remove some of the material on one :cool: So far, the biggest problem I have come across is the gear issue... well that and the stock dog bones :rolleyes: It may only be a 27cc engine with a pipe, but it was enough to make life miserable when it came to burnin up gears.
 
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nitrorulz

Junior Member
Messages
16
Well thanks guys, all of you helping ,me out! Like I said before, been in the hobby a long, long time, but haven't messed with these, and haven't really read up on them much since they had a few prob's last year when they came out and I backed off from them.


Yeah i'm like alot of you guys, but mainly with my Nitro's! All the power I can get, ripping some drivetrain up, then upgrading this, then that, etc. but with I will not spank this thing too bad, especially at first! I just make sure i can get one, then run it stock without it falling apart of breaking things that I wasn't beating on!


Yeah, i'm sure I upgrade power and everything else later, but when i want, not becasue the factory should have to handle the 23cc stock!


Thanks
 

hamster huey

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,372
Location
Wichita
I used to be super into 1/8 nitro. I had $1,000 in each in both my 8t and 8b but they were bad ass. When you compare 1/5,1/6 to those the price seems very fair. I can build a nice ramp with upgrades and motor/pipe for less than $1,100 new and way less for used. What Im trying to say is they cost around what a racer 1/8 nitro cost if thats what youre into.
 

nitrorulz

Junior Member
Messages
16
Very, very true! I have one tricked out Clodbuster, twin brushless, carbon fiber chassis, etc. etc and I have $1400.00 in it! Its the one on this post showing the paint I did! My Revo I did all custom anodizing in purple to be different, and a mean .26 Picco, etc. and its $1100.00, so yes, these are very reasonable I think!


My friend called Rob this morning and he will cut us a decent deal on (2), so we are pretty sure we are gonna make a move on them this week! I will for sure let you guys know! Again, good info here from you guys! Thanks! ;)
 

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