Rampage MT dependability?

[nitrorulz]

I came around here when the MT first was released and wanted one, but started reading about the diff's having problems! I didn't want to get into all that, especially since I already had a Firehammer MT which isn't the most dependable truck either.


I just forgot about getting one until they had been out for awhile and maybe would fix the diff. prob's. Well my friend has since got interested in maybe buying a 5th scale monster and wants me to get another one with him. I told him its been almost a year since I checked into this truck and maybe they have the first bit of prob's worked out.


I came here and seen where they now have the V2 out with the better diff's. I'm now reading about the side gear problems!! I guess the question is: if we get a couple V2's, run the stock 23cc motors for now, but will probally install a pipe of somekind, will the stock truck hold up. Now I know that can be a loaded question, but i'm talking bashing around at his property on smooth clay, no landing off a small jump still on throttle or anything like that!


I've been into the hobby 29 years and have ran most everything and am a very maintenance type person, plus I would be going over everything when I first get it and lockthreading all the stuff that should be. I know anything can happen, but I wanna know, do the stock side gears hold up to stock power and better pipe? I will vent the cover or remove it, but I don't wanna get back into a 5th scale with problems from the factory! I'm not saying I might not get a factory over looked problem, but if the side gears are junk on 80% of them, I won't want it. I don't wanna start replacing and upgrading right off the bat just to run it basically stock for awhile til I decide to upgrade.


Give me the scoop on these newer V2 MT's!

 

[hamster huey]

From what I understand the v2 is a v1 with the $50 upgrade kit already installed and provisions for dual servos (servos are installed in RTR). If you want to run the stock 23cc the TT will seem faster than the MT due to less rotating mass and overall vehicle weight so it will also respond better to a pipe as you asked. I don't care about dual servos because I bought a hitec 5745 and also the stock servos wont last forever anyways. I run without a gear cover and do not have problems with my plastic 29/31/25/25 gears anymore. I also have the first version aluminum gear plate. The gears used to melt until I removed the cover completly. Their is a second version aluminum gear plate/gears coming out soon in case you decide you need the added insurance. The only maintenance thing I do every tank is tighten the 2 set screws on the D shaft. I run a 28.5/xcan so I think you would have good results too. Davesmotors, largescalerc, rampagehopups, and ebay are where I get my Ramp stuff, check them out.

 

[nitrorulz]

Thanks for the reply! Yeah, it will 100% be keeping the MT tires and rims though, because the Monster Truck is what we like! I wouldn't want it if I had to go to smaller tires. I do understand the weight of them, but they come on it and its what we want. We considered the 5t Baja, and I know its a pretty decent truck right off, but we don't want the desert size/type truck. Yeah, I would 100% check all bolts, hardware etc. before I run it first, and then after every session. I would install nice servo's and TX/RX right off.


I just wanna make sure the truck itself will take a pipe, no motor upgrade right now, and run without gear problems every 5 tanks etc.

 

[kryptonite]

hey bud. really glad you made it back!! i really think the problems have been sorted for the most part. you will be pretty safe with the stock 23 and a side dom. the diffs have not only been upgraded, but ramapage hop=ups also offers the "tempered" diff hubs for serous abuse. as far as the gears go, i had a few problem with keeping them together. sometimes i could run forever and they would be fine and other times they would last 5minutes. i found the best resoults for me was to cut the side of the gear cover and put some mesh in there. i have also run with no cover and didnt have any problems, but just like the security of the cover on. with the air flow i didnt go thru any gears at all(2 rigs).. for what you guys seem to be doing i really think you should be fine. the heavy mt tires put some strain on the front plastic, so its really nice to order some extra stearing mounts and lower suspension arms. sometimes i can continously waffle the front end and other times it will just cart-wheel and snap a stearing mount. its just becouse of the heavy tires(9.7lbs!). the mt's are VERY stable and you will find it hard to roll over. mainly on bad jumps.. most run with no problems and just a few spares. there are a few other tips maintonance things that should be looked at for good long bash sessions, like lowering the body and keeping a nice light shock oil in to preserve the shock shafts as well as centering the shafts for the long wheel travel. but you can ask those questions on another thread. all basic DIY stuff that doesn't cost anything..


so now its just a matter of V1 or V2.. the only diffrence is the doull stearing and the upgrade kit is already installed. with the v1 you buy the upgrade kit for $49 and get not only the needed upgrade parts, but also extra arms,bumpers and other things that are great for the pit box. you also have the fun of installing all the stuff if thats what you like. with the V2 its obvoiusly allready installed, so you get no extra parts(its nice to have the old diffs as a spare plus all the wheels hubs too). the good thing about the daul stearing servos is you could probly get away with running the stock servos for some time and in the future 2 basic stearing servos are cheaper then 1 really good servos.. but you will need to replace the throttle right out of the box on both. they are unsafe.. ok, im done. sorry for the long post

 

[nitrorulz]

No, not too long! Give me the info!


I am reading about the centering shaft thing! Are you guys talking about the trick like we have done on some nitro's, like installing a little piece of fuel line o-ring in the diff cup to keep the bone from falling out? I know nitro line won't work here, but is that what peeps are referring to?


Yeah, better throttle servo right away! No prob there!

 

[kryptonite]

like installing a little piece of fuel line o-ring in the diff cup to keep the bone from falling out? QUOTE]yup. just like our nitro's. but with the nitro's we just lose bones. when these bind and pop out, they crack the drive cup either on the diff side or hub side. i have tried a few methods. i don't like the earplug foam as i found it doesn't hold up well, fuel tubing as you know will just crumble apart. large o-rings are great couse they are easy to adjust by adding or removing. but i just havent found or looked for the right size. one member uses springs. that sounds like the best idea to me. i now use 1/4 auto grade fuel tubing. its pretty durable. problem is it must be perfectly measured and takes a few tries for each dog bone. you want it so that when the wheels are off the ground you can spin them and they don't bind(sounds like you allready know). but there isnt too much travel in either direction. redcat does have the cvd's, but i and many other wouldnt sugjest them. as far as the mt shell goes, they are just as bad as when they first came out. but i have mastered the art of preserving them couse i am cheap..lol.. the problem is it has no support when it flips over(35lbs). so i simply took some time and lowered the body mounts as low as they would go and cut a small portion out of the rear window for the roll cage to come out. so you have front center and rear support. also taking any kind of shoe goo or high bond "clear"(so it don't look "hacked") epoxy and coat the inside of the shell, like the corners, around the roof line and body mount holes. also a hot glue gun and some 5minute epoxy will help when the body does crack. as your reading you'll find the expensive fixes and less expensive fixes. its just a matter of wich way you wana go. basicly with the little DIY mods you'll be fine and have tons of fun as long as you keep the modds down. vent the gear cover, center the shafts, slam the shell, and rock out.. . keep us posted and thro up some specific questions.. if you decide to buy, who ya going with?coupon codes, free shipping.. let me know



/monthly_2009_05/583c6058cd46b_gearcovermod002.jpg.d6d11bb9f507826430706e9b57e44acd.jpg

/monthly_2009_05/583c6058ceb0e_rageandtormentphotoshoot015.jpg.a222fcbcff062f8a72f1547fa91a06d1.jpg

 

[hamster huey]

If you want a cheap radio system I recommend a TQ3 $30 ebay (3 channel so you can add PB killswitch later). I know its 27mhz but if you put the tranmitter crystal in the receiver and the receiver crystal in the transmitter someone running on the same channel as you wont interfere. That trick only works on 27mhz Am though. I have done this in a bind and got zero interference with excellent range. Also ebay has "rare crystals" on 27mhz that are not one of the 6 allocating land rc channels so you can have your own "secret" channel. Later you can get a 2.4ghz.

 

[jigawatt]

anyone try a tactic radio yet?


80 bucks and 2.4 GHz, could be too good to be true, but then again, could be a gem in the rough.

FEATURES:


Transmitter can bind to multiple receivers


Tiny lightweight receiver (TOWL0224) with internal antenna


Built-in fail safe


Steering and throttle trim and servo reversing


Steering rate adjustment Power LED with low battery indication One year limited warranty


INCLUDES: Tower Hobbies 224 2.4GHz 2-Channel Transmitter and Receiver with instruction manual


REQUIRES:


AA Cells: Four for transmitter, Servos of modeler's choice


SPECS:


Transmitter; Channels: 2


Frequencies: 2.403 - 2.480GHz


Modulation: Spread spectrum


Input Power: 4 AA alkaline, NiCD or NiMH cells Output power: < 0.1W


Power on indicator: red LED


Antenna: Non-removable, folding


Receiver; Channels: 2


Receiving Frequencies: 2.403 - 2.480GHz


Modulation: Spread spectrum


Input Power: 4 AA alkaline, NiCD or NiMH cells


Dimensions: 1.77 x 0.98 x 0.5" (45 x 25 x 13mm) Weight: 0.25 oz (7g)


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWPW0&P=0

 

[nitrorulz]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far guys! I actually own a Hobby Shop that I have located inside my 4x4 shop! I don't do any 5th scale other than when I bought a Firehammer for myself! If I can't become a dealer, i'll probally go with Rob here! I've talked to him a few times at the Digger's Dungeon events, and just talked with him again this last Sat there at the 5th scale racing they had for the first time!


I hate that the body is soo weak! I really wanna lay down a paint job to make the truck look different and make it mine! I'm not a great painter, but do pretty good for rattle cans! Heres my Clod body I just painted, and was maybe gonna mimmick it again on a Ram MT!

Yeah, if I do order one, (probally will) i'll have to jump right on the bone prob and come up with a fix! As far as TX/RX I've been using the new Traxxas 2.4 radio! They can be hard to find, but I love mine! I'll slap a Hitec throttle servo in, then concentrate on the other things as they pop up. That sux that the bones don't just pop out, but crack the cup!

 

[kryptonite]

anyone try a tactic radio yet?QUOTE]
saw those on tower. its great that they are 2.4, but they have no end-point adjustments. that means fried servo's in 10minutes. with it only being 2channel that also means no failsafe either. by the looks of it, im sure he has the radio gear figured out, but for argument sake. if i was in a bind and i needed a radio and all i had was $80 i would go with the hitech agresser.. 75mhz..fm.. by for the best, but somewhat reliable.... i did see the traxxas 2.4 on A-main hobbies. they go for $174!! damn. didnt think they were that much


and nitro you sik humble son-of-a-gun!! i aint that good? whatever!! triple chrome? what is that, 3-4 color marbilizing? ripped up checker board racing stripes? ya, your right. you need more practice. i'll send you a shell to practice on..lol

 

[jigawatt]

with it only being 2channel that also means no failsafe either

um... your failsafe should be in between your throttle/brake servo and receiver there dude. You don't NEED a 3 channel when it comes to a failsafe, however... you need one for the pico switch.


the TACTIC brand however, does sell with a 3 channel, so you can be happy there.


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWRP3&P=ML


As far as EPA's go, which kind of servo are YOU using that you need to actually adjust it?

 

[kryptonite]

pico is actoully what i was refering to. the "pointless" failsafe is just that.. pointless, but doesn't require a 3rd channel... as far as end point adjustment.. im kinda shocked by your question. i have been under the impression that you are a seasond large scale rc'er. hopefully i didnt miss understand your question..


so im running a few diffrent types of servo.. ie; multiplex, scanner-rc, hitech, futaba.. but that is un-important. most servos are standard with 40* thro. but no linkage like throttle or stearing or break is actoully a 40* linkage. so that meen if your servos are running at 120% all the time in both left/right, throttle and brake, they wont last long and will be over worked. for instance, out of 120% thro, for my throttle im at 68% my brakes are at 72%. my stearing is 82% left and right is 74%. its not really important or a "must" with nitro's becouse of the runtime. maybe 7minute max with lots of stop-n-go-n-tune. we run for 45minute straight in large wide open areas with extended bursts of full throttle and long sweeping turns.. thats why a normal radio with end point adjustments and a pico kill switch is so important and a failsafe is useless.. when the thottle servo burns up at full bore, you'll know.

 

[jigawatt]

I can happily say I've never had to adjust an epa, ever.


The springs on the throttle/brake servo linkage also serve another purpose by the way, to reduce risks of having that problem.


Oh and the Tactic radio does have a D/R adjustment to make up for the lack of a EPA.

 

[kryptonite]

what? the spring thing sounds a little nitro to me and e.p.a.'s werent envented to "bling out" you radio gear.. but im not going to have pissing contest.. so, ok..

 

[hamster huey]

When I ran the TQ3 I adjusted the throttle and brake linkages to set endpiints because the TQ3 has no endpoints. For steering it was not an issue because the servo could not turn full lock except when the car is in the air which is usually for a short period of time when and usually Im not steering when jumping. I ran it with the PB kill and failsafe. Failsafes are still a good idea thats why the 2.4 ghz radios have them built in. Maybe well see a failsafe story under "rookie mistakes".

 

[jigawatt]

yeah kryptonite those things that come stock, springs is what we call them. They are generally replaced/upgraded to a fuel line. Either way, they work wonders for those who don't use EPA's! Same goes for radios having dual rates... pretty nice feature on a radio if the radio didn't have EPA's.


H2: Failsafes are indeed a joke (when looking for a reason to put it under rookie mistakes), plenty a reason why tracks wouldn't let you race with them if you ran nitros! Although, the concept was a good idea! Instead, many tracks mandated that you used throttle return springs.

 

[hamster huey]

I do beleive digital radios are the way to go however it can be done other ways if you don't have one. Dual rates are useful and Epas are way more precise and when your linkage needs a small adjustment you can do it from the radio.

 

[hamster huey]

A spring does nothing for lost radio signal but a failsafe does. don't all of the 2.4 ghz have built in failsafe?

 

[jigawatt]

negative sir, my 2.4 does not. I think only a select few radios do!


Problem is, failsafes caused most of the problems at the tracks


Define digital (modulation???)! It all depends on which part of the radio you are talking about. This thing (tactic radio) doesn't broadcast 2.4GHz via the analog ways (unless it is ANALOG spread spectrum, I could only assume it is DSS) What it isn't, however, it is not a computer radio. I dono if thats what you were driving at, but if not, now others know Yuck... glad that many manufacturers stopped calling them "digital" radios (vague).

 

[hamster huey]

Offhand, 2.4ghz radios that have failsafe built in Spektrum, Nomadio, Futaba, Airtronics. However if you don't reprogram them from stock settings you'd never notice the failsafe. Of if youre good you always turn your car on second and off first youd never enter failsafe mode to notice. I use mine. Do you know if the 2.4s failsafes might cause problems? I have not had any but I can see how a seperate failsafe between the receiver and servo could cause problems.


Also 2.4ghz w/failsafe: Tactic, ko propo, Traxxas