motor choice....

[bigfol]

What motors are guys using? I have tried a leopard 5692 1090kv, it was ok,caused a bit cogging,neu 1527 1.5d,after a hard bash session yesterday the rotor shaft started to spin inside the rotor housing, it would appear it got to hot and the glue let go and turnigy 5692 , which seems to be the same as a TP motor, the windings came un-glued and started spinning inside the actual motor can, it has been reglued with high temp epoxy and seems to holding ok so far.


Has any one had any luck with other brands? Its a pity the castle 2028 won't fit.....

 

[killajb]

Sounds like you need check temps often, and to adjust gearing and/or voltage selection you have chosen with your setup. For the first five minutes, check temps frequently to insure things aren't over 150F. After that, perhaps every few minutes or so.

On a slightly different note.. looks like the newer CC1717 (black version used in the Traxxas XO1) is a good choice. Efficiency is up from the standard green 1717, and the rotor design is lighter to allow for faster spool-up.

Then again.. it depends on what you wish to accomplish. If you're just going for speed runs, then yeah.. just keep an eye on temps so as not to ruin your costly investments in motors.

 

[landmissle]

I have a 1717 in mine with stock ESC and gearing. I have quite a few runs on it with no problems so far.

 

[bigblkblazin]

The 2028 belongs in this car . We must pressure monster mike to make a mount that can accomodate this motor. or if I get my cnc machine up... well you know.

 

[bigfol]

The 2028 belongs in this car . We must pressure monster mike to make a mount that can accomodate this motor. or if I get my cnc machine up... well you know.[/quoteYes I agree the 2028 is whats required,my 1527 is 1.5d I think a 1y wind would be a better set up for this vehicle.

It was geared 14/45 when I was running the 1527, a little bit tall, but my 1000kv turnigy motor handles it fine.....

 

[bigblkblazin]

When i feel the heat (140c +) I get spooked . I don't want my rotor separating . So The xbe sits and waits for a suitable mount 2028 .

 

[bigfol]

After having a good look at it,all that needs to happen is for the mount to be moved towards the rear about 15mm, but that means modified drive shafts and a new set of mounting holes in the chassis.....or you could build a modified mount that is set using the same mount holes, but still would require modified centre drive shafts, I think its going to be a custom chassis/mount project for me in the future. If only I could afford a CNC machine......

 

[bigblkblazin]

7075 makes beautiful work . I wonder if he would make a classic 1/8 style plate for us .

 

[Ol' fart]

One of the many projects I have planed for the X cars is a longer chassis.

I could make it so the rear drive shaft would be the same length. The front drive shaft could be made from a rear one cut short and welded with a sleeve.

How much longer would the chassis have to be to fit in a 2028?

 

[bigblkblazin]

2028 is 113.2mm long. 57 diameter. Instead of putting the motor to the left or right. What about putting the motor right over the center driveline. Removing the need for and new chassis and drive shafts.

 

[bigfol]

One of the many projects I have planed for the X cars is a longer chassis.I could make it so the rear drive shaft would be the same length. The front drive shaft could be made from a rear one cut short and welded with a sleeve.

How much longer would the chassis have to be to fit in a 2028?

I would go 15mm longer in the chassis, but not only will you have to mod the drive shafts you will also need a longer cover. There is enough room to move your mount back towards the rear by about 15mm and mod both shafts,it would be nice to start over with a T6 alloy chassis with only the required screw holes,mine is starting to look like swiss cheese.....LOL

 

[DemonRC]

Your best bet is to use the longer XBE rear in the back with a XT/XB center front or wheel dogbone for the front depending on how long you want it.

 

[Ol' fart]

Do'able but would the body fit?

 

[bigfol]

I have found by heating the xbe's cover with a hair dryer the platic becomes very flexable, so moulding one over a top mounted motor would work IMO, might not look that pretty, but I think it would work, if I could fit the 2028 in there I would try it.....

 

[Ol' fart]

Or you could cut a hole in the body. The motor would stay cool then.

 

[bigfol]

Maybe a xb body might work, I would like to keep it all under the cover if possible, that way it has a bit of protection, being a 780kv motor if its geared correctly you will still get top end speed and low temps, I'm currently running one these T5692 Turnigy Pro Comp Brushless Inrunner Motor 1000kv

It runs so cool I can gear 16/41 without a worry,its not as powerful as the neu1527, but better than the leopard 5692 I was running before......

 

[Ol' fart]

What ESC are you using? My Leopard 5692 keeps smoking ESC's on 6c's

 

[bigfol]

I know all about that,I smoked a few before I went to the (castle XL2- 8s), I'm running a separate castle bec and castle cap bank,both are a must IMO. I had 2 XL2'S fail on me because I didn't have a separate bec the first 2 times, hasn't been a problem since......

 

[landmissle]

What about kershaw designs? Doesn't he have this figured out? On his website he has a set up available with the new castle motor. Also question on the cogging of the leopard motor....... how did you have the start power programmed? On a few of my setup ups with the MMM I had to program full start power to get rid of the cogging.

 

[strodedawg]

i am running the xl2 and a leopard 5698 (720 kv) w/ a receiver pack, what is the part number for the castle cap bank?