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HELP! Carbeurator issues. 1/5 Dunerunner 4x4

Orion

Junior Member
Messages
4
Hi all, newbie here.


1/5 Dunerunner Cabeurator issue.


I live in Duba, UAE, where the dunes and sand are full of salt (no water though). I noticed after a few uses my Dunerunner fasteners and screw were starting to erode and rust (I intend to buy the SS screw set).


After 1 season, I knew I couldnt use it for a few months so I oiled it up and kept it in cover storage. Even though I oiled it all the fasteners have rusted (after 6 months only).


Took it out recently and tested it and found the throttle pin on the carbeurater seized up completely. Ive taken off the servo kit and tried turning it with pliers and it wont move. I also tried the idle pin (air inlet adjustment) with the plastic key & then pliers. It wont budge either.


Engine starts fine (lucky idle pin seized in an ok position) but both throttle & idle pin are completely stuck in one position. I cant even make the wheels turn. The mounting for the manual primer pump (little clear depressible dome on top of the carb) is all rusted upand; the top end and low end adjustment screws & hinges are pretty rusted up too.


I took the the air filter off and removed the carb. The inside, as expected, is impeccable. Looks brand new. But I still cant turn the throttle or idle pin (air inlet). Most of the screw heads heads are damaged now so just managed to screw them out, but don't think they should go back in.


Any suggestions on how to unstick the pins and remove rust from tiny parts? Can I replace all the carb screws? Where to get them? Best solution for me is, would like to get new carb screws (for the whole carb); unstick the throttle and idle pin; replace the gasket and replace the manual primer mounting.


Is it better just to get a new carb? I cant find carb parts or replacement carb locally (shops here are not very good) or online. Even the Redcat website doesn't offer replacement carb parts or carbeurator.


As you can see in the attached picture, it really looks salvageable. Its just the screws and the seized pins.


I appreciate any tips and help you can offer. Thank you in advance.


Regards


Orion
 

Ice_2k

Senior Member
Messages
1,387
Frankly, I would just get a new carb, that looks nasty. You can take the opportunity and get a better one, which will give you more power. This is a good option.

The SS screw set also seems to be a must in your environment. The only problem is I remeber someone posting about those screws not being a direct fit in most situations (I believe the screws going under the chassis were not going all the way in). Maybe they'll see this thread and post here.

Also, before running it in those conditions (and maybe also before putting it for storage), you could coat all metal parts in WD-40. This is what I do to protect non-stainless parts (such as dogbones and drive cups) when running in wet conditions. I'm not 100% sure though it will help with your salty dry sand.... maybe others can pitch in.
 

Orion

Junior Member
Messages
4
Ive just disassembled the whole carb. Still cant move the throttle or idle pin. Trying to clean it up and loosen the pins.

Seems s shame to toss the whole carb because of a few rusted pins. I am determined and replacement is a last resort. But thanks for the link, Ice_2k. Couldnt fine one anywhere. This one looks exactly the same as mine. How is it a performance carb compared to mine? Ive sent them an email asking if the ship to UAE.

I did oil the whole buggy before storage with WD 4 & greased the gears. Maybe I should periodically oil it when storing. Still covered in sand though. Unfortunately I don't have a compressor & I didnt like the idea of hosing it down (as salt, water & metal spells disaster). Any tips on cleaning?

I suppose it depends where you purchase the SS fastener kit. Luck of the draw I suppose on purchasing. Any clue where the kit with the screws that didnt fit was purchased from? I was looking at a kit from JNJ Hobbies (who do ship to my area).
 

Orion

Junior Member
Messages
4
blak__jak said:
this carb, though not cheap, I think might help solve your problems because it has the sealed bearings. http://www.davesmotors.com/av990walbrowt990withbearing.html I also would take special care to clean and lubricate after every use. there also is no choke on this one so that solves that part.
Thanks. Carb with bearing on the throttle shaft looks perfect but very pricey. I like the idea though. I think you are right, this is the solution to stop a repeat of this. I found this great video on modifying your own carb for bearings:

Suppose it can be done on any carb. Can save you quite a bit of $.

If I get mine unstuck I will do it.
 

designed2survive

Senior Member
Messages
1,005
Location
MA
I know you don't want to replace the carb. So one thing you can try is immerse the carb into penetrating oil for a day or two.

That being said, I surely don't want to rain on your parade but there is a reason why those components are stuck. Rust eats away metal. Even if you get it unstuck, chances are you will be dealing with metal to metal clearances if you choose to reuse the carb body or the throttle shaft. Such clearance will result with leaks that will get big fast when ran again in salty sandy environment.

Modifying your carb for throttle shaft bearing mod may look easy on YouTube but it requires the right tools and skills. Even if you can pull it off, do you want to do it on parts that may no longer have the proper clearances?

Carb may be expensive but it's way less expensive than a wrecked car like Ildy666 said.

My advice, buy a new carb, shop around for SS screws at your local hardware store or online.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Orion

Junior Member
Messages
4
Final decision

General consensus seems to be leaning to buying a new one.

Ive been soaking the current one in fuel for the last few hours. Cleaned it up nice and I can now turn the choke. Unfortunately the throttle pin is still stuck. Now I can see it, it seems the e clip has fused with the throttle shaft. Cant budge it at all. Internally it is perfect. I think it is just externally jammed.

But designed2survive youre right, the damage is already done. Looks nice and new now but cant even slightly move the clip. Will cannibalise it for spare parts I suppose.

I'll go ahead and order a new one. Thanks for the links guys. But I am still going to do my own bearing modifications on the new one, save a few bucks. Maybe practice run on this old one. I have a drill press at work. Will make a wooden mount to get the right angle. I think I can pull it off. This sort of project is the whole reason I started building the R/C buggy.
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Orion said:
Hi all, newbie here.1/5 Dunerunner Cabeurator issue.

I live in Duba, UAE, where the dunes and sand are full of salt (no water though). I noticed after a few uses my Dunerunner fasteners and screw were starting to erode and rust (I intend to buy the SS screw set).

After 1 season, I knew I couldnt use it for a few months so I oiled it up and kept it in cover storage. Even though I oiled it all the fasteners have rusted (after 6 months only).

Took it out recently and tested it and found the throttle pin on the carbeurater seized up completely. Ive taken off the servo kit and tried turning it with pliers and it wont move. I also tried the idle pin (air inlet adjustment) with the plastic key & then pliers. It wont budge either.

Engine starts fine (lucky idle pin seized in an ok position) but both throttle & idle pin are completely stuck in one position. I cant even make the wheels turn. The mounting for the manual primer pump (little clear depressible dome on top of the carb) is all rusted upand; the top end and low end adjustment screws & hinges are pretty rusted up too.

I took the the air filter off and removed the carb. The inside, as expected, is impeccable. Looks brand new. But I still cant turn the throttle or idle pin (air inlet). Most of the screw heads heads are damaged now so just managed to screw them out, but don't think they should go back in.

Any suggestions on how to unstick the pins and remove rust from tiny parts? Can I replace all the carb screws? Where to get them? Best solution for me is, would like to get new carb screws (for the whole carb); unstick the throttle and idle pin; replace the gasket and replace the manual primer mounting.

Is it better just to get a new carb? I cant find carb parts or replacement carb locally (shops here are not very good) or online. Even the Redcat website doesn't offer replacement carb parts or carbeurator.

As you can see in the attached picture, it really looks salvageable. Its just the screws and the seized pins.

I appreciate any tips and help you can offer. Thank you in advance.

Regards

Orion
I live and run at the beach but don't have any damage like that.

After running you can hose and WD40.

Just don't hose the electrics.

In the meantime replace the carb
 

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