front turnbuckles

[firefighter9780]

just bent my second set of titanium front upper arm turnbuckles well the first set was just the stock ones and now these is there any better ones to run or just take it easier with my mt. i just don't know what options i have looked into my own set of dies to just thread some steel when this happens but didnt know if that would work better or not thanks in advance for all the help

 

[hemiller3]

if you were to use hardened steel shafts the impact would just transfer energy farther, and break everything the turnbuckles were attached to.

 

[firefighter9780]

ok so that option is out of the question anywhere i can just buy cheap turnbuckles not the titanium ones so when they do break it doesn't cost as much

 

[chevy]

How did you manage to bend tiitanium turnbuckles?? Were you jumping it?

 

[firefighter9780]

i don't really know, i was jumping it very little compared to when i had the stock ones in it(which ended up breaking one side after a rock jumped in my way) i had the stock ones in all summer and i only ran these maybe a month or so but i didnt think i did and thing nearly as had as when we were jumping at the sand dunes so i am just not really sure. i was just changing back to the mt tires and i noticed one of the arms looked funny and i couldnt even adjust it so pulled the pin to remove and now here i am asking if i have any options other than just taking it a little easier

 

[krashkrieg]

I bought some 5/16" stainless steel threaded rod from Home Depot...(looked all over for 7mm rod, just doesn't exist ) Then I tapped the 7mm holes with 5/16 tap...


I cut the rod 1/4" longer than stock length (so they insert more) and set the correct length before final install (you will not have L/R adjusting like standard buckles but how often do you change camber)


Of course this solution is more pricey if you don't have the tap but they haven't broke or bent yet, and I've had a couple rough tumbles that would have easily broke the stock Pot metal...and if they bend, I'll just cut another one...

 

[firefighter9780]

thanks that is kinda what i was thinking just didnt know if anyone has did it before i may buy another set to do that with just so i have a spare set if anything does happen to them

 

[chevy]

you know i did the same repair but i used two 7mm bolts i put back to back and spot welded it just a temp fix here is a pic...

 

[firefighter9780]

i tried to find some left hand thread 7m bolts but had no luck where did you find yours

 

[krashkrieg]

That's so funny Chevy, I had that Idea, but I don't weld...I bought the bolts at homeD but came up with the tap idea before I could find someone to weld...LOL...great minds think alike..!

 

[krashkrieg]

i tried to find some left hand thread 7m bolts but had no luck where did you find yours

He's not using L threads... ...it's the "set it and forget it" camber link...

 

[chevy]

I didnt I used regular bolts I just screwed each side in and held it with channel locks in the center till i had the same lenght as the other side.

 

[Bill_G]

Those stock ones are crap. I broke both rears at the same time landing from a small jump. Car was only about a foot off the ground. They broke flush at the threads in the arm. They drilled easier than aluminum. I'm making some from tool steel with 8mm thread then will harden and temper. Hope to get done soon just been too busy working.

 

[rob64n]

thats not a normal part to break, mine took a severe hit and only bent a turnbuckle bent it back and still goin haven't had to replace one the whole time i've owned it.

 

[krashkrieg]

OK rob, you've been lucky, they are made of pot metal...You just don't have anything to hit where you live... ..A curb took out my last one...then I went for the stainless steel...

 

[rob64n]

krash, you must watch my xt test videos and if you think those have some crazy air shots my rampage has been through alot worse,lol

 

[firefighter9780]

i just ended up putting my spare stock one is and running it that way until i decide what i am going to do about the ones i bent

 

[Trickle007]

instead of welding you could just try to use 2 nuts and red lok tite them. the red lok tite might hold them enough so you can adjust camber... just a thought

That's so funny Chevy, I had that Idea, but I don't weld...I bought the bolts at homeD but came up with the tap idea before I could find someone to weld...LOL...great minds think alike..!

 

[Ictinike]

I found a pack of 8mm exhaust studs from a locale parts house, had to drill the hole out a bit but it has worked fine, of course I am useing the plastic arms not the aluminum ones.

 

[Cybie257]

3/8 Rod, cheap fix to get back on the road.

I bought some 5/16" stainless steel threaded rod from Home Depot...(looked all over for 7mm rod, just doesn't exist ) Then I tapped the 7mm holes with 5/16 tap...

LoL.. I Only had my MT out for one day and I busted my turnbuckle. Told the store I bought it from and they were surprised. I only was at about 10-15 MPH when I hit a small jump and SnaP.. I was not a happy person. But I had the same idea using the 3/8 rod. Going to keep some around for furture band-aid fixes until I get my upgraded arms.


So I went down to the local hardware store (and few other places) seeking a left handed thread tap and die (Found that Grainger has them!! - But they were closed) No luck on getting that today/tonight, so I bought a 3/8 threaded rod for a couple bucks and tapped out the plastic (after extracting the broke off pot metal junk) and put the rod in.


In the photo, you will see it extends past the "what was sealed/closed" end on the A-Arm. I did that on purpose to give more length of the rod to be inserted, though not intending to be that long, but no biggie. I then used to nuts to secure against the plastic parts in order to tighten up the rod which will protect the threads from being thrashed and tore out. (I've never seem a tap and die give perfect threads that were tight (no wabbling) so I used an old trick I used in the past. Good as new (or maybe better, we'll see).


-Cybie