Did I damage the crankshaft?

[BertR]

Yep....I would have to say spend the 45 or 50 bucks on a new one because if you don't have that crank perfect it will self destruction on the entire engine from out of balance and costing you 4 times as much as a new crank.

 

[Deluge]

File it down, man. It's on the clutch side, there's really no balancing to throw off on that end. As long as you get the clutch carrier on straight, you're good to go. And it's not going to effect the seal at all since it's right at the end. Now if it was on the flywheel side, that's when you would need to replace it. You don't want anything throwing off the balance of the flywheel.

 

[Phill]

I wouldn't risk it - buy a new one

 

[RampageHopUps]

You have a 30.5 cc engine. The Redcat factory never understood there is no 30cc engine.

You can file or grind the taper, but without a lathe, you will never get it right.

 

[reppairman540]

Rob Have You Measured The Bore + Stroke On These HY Engines?

 

[RampageHopUps]

Yes, they have been 30.5cc since the beginning

There is no mathematical way of putting together a 30.0 cc engine.

 

[reppairman540]

The Bore In My Redcat MT is 37mm Stroke 28mm =30.1cc I Know it is strange but I Have Checked it several times I Bought it in Jan It Has 36/30 Stamped on the Head

 

[phreerider]

i would grind it, the length has been altered. could finish clutch contact further out on the bell but looks within range. definitely check carrier finished position shoes should not be visible ...if lipped area is not of ideal taper could lock on carrier . Check bolt depth BEFORE putting on carrier, proves threaded end is still true(kinda),,if it won't go all the way its over, and check for run out as well, assemble---> zero wobble is what u want

 

[PrjctStrtFrce]

I was actually able to lightly force the plate onto the crankshaft end. It is sitting very straight and snug, but there is less than a 1mm gap from where the crankshaft threaded end should be fully touching the inside of the plate. Should I try to file it down a little or is that <1mm gap okay?

 

[phreerider]

file, then squeeze it down...you could squeeze it down now,BUT the soft carrier will deform.

the 1mm is partly the squeeze space, but clean it up and keep moving

 

[PrjctStrtFrce]

So the 1mm gap is how it should be anyways?

 

[Deluge]

That gap will get taken up when the carrier is fully pressed on. As long as the clutch is sitting straight and not sticking out more than usual, it'll be alright.

 

[PrjctStrtFrce]

Ahh, okay. I'll have to file it down a little more then because it can't get pressed anymore due to the end being how it is.

 

[phreerider]

torque to spec bolt should squeeze it down if <1mm

 

[PrjctStrtFrce]

Okay great, thank you.

For future situations like this, would I just be able to use a brass plumbing cap over the shaft and then hit it out with a hammer? I would prefer to spend a couple dollars over $20+ for a brass hammer.

 

[BertR]

With all the lube in the box the case should pop apart after the bolts are out or maybe a little pressure applied near the bearings to remove the crank.It blows me away that it was that stuck and a pain in the rear.. Next time take a brass wire brush and give it a good going over at the exterior shaft areas near the seal to get the buildup out and it should fall apart.

 

[PrjctStrtFrce]

The case was relatively easy to separate. Taking the crank out of the case on the flywheel side was pretty easy as well, only the clutch side gave me the headache.

I ended up using my dremel and sanded/polished off the rough edge a little bit and it is a smoother fit now.