3s or 6s batt xbe

[lefnut]

what should i get 3s or 6s with the leopard 5692 with stock esc.

 

[BoukeG]

You can get both... Either 2x 3s in series or 2x 6s in parallel. Depending on the lipo you can have longer run times.

 

[DUFFY]

My stock esc broke with my 5692, but others have ran it fine. I had it geared too high though. So don't be too surprised either way. You may want 4s batts for running 8s. I have a bunch of 3s and 6s batts that are fine. I now want to set up 8s , it should run cooler all things the same on most 5692 motors. At least convental wisdom says so. . You can run on 6s all day and be fine aswell, so take your time. Boukeg is right you prolly want to spread your eggs around. The xbe will handle different depending on heft and power. A new esc might be needed In the near future aswell. Might want to chill and test before buying a ton of batts.

 

[Guest]

6s ran parallel, all the way!

Two 3s 5000mah in series = 5000mah

Two 6s 5000mah in parallel = 10000mah (longer run time)

 

[lefnut]

will got 3 sets of 3s zippys at 30c 5000mah so i thank this next set is going to be 6s 35 to 45c at 8000mah and by the way if i got to get a new esc what do you recommend i really don t want to spend 300.00 on a esc so let me know what you would get

 

[bigfol]

will got 3 sets of 3s zippys at 30c 5000mah so i thank this next set is going to be 6s 35 to 45c at 8000mah and by the way if i got to get a new esc what do you recommend i really don t want to spend 300.00 on a esc so let me know what you would get

Castle xl2 run with separate bec and a cap bank.....

 

[XBENOOB]

The hobbywing 150a pro ESC is more than capable of handling 6s. Just need to get an external BEC.

If you are going to run 8s, then you need the Castle XL2 but you would still need the external BEC. The week link on most ESC's is the internal BEC.

The amps that the servos draw tends to overheat the BEC up and in turn it heats up the ESC. It kills the ESC faster than normal.

Some people have had success with external cap banks reducing cogging or glitching, it wouldn't hurt, but it may not help.... But the cost is cheap enough so why not try it...

 

[Guest]

The hobbywing 150a pro ESC is more than capable of handling 6s. Just need to get an external BEC.

Can you post some links.

 

[DUFFY]

You can just pull out the red wire on your esc and use a recieverpack. If you hate that then here's a pic of how it's wired.

http://www.google.com/search?q=receiver+pack+wiring+castle+esc&hl=en&client=safari&tbo=d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=2sYLUMH0PMnf0QHgga2DBA&ved=0CDkQ_AUoAQ&biw=768&bih=928#biv=i|3;d|xG6ZRYYr9oEsgM:

 

[DUFFY]

Pull the red wire either way. My stock esc did not break because of the bec it fried instantly on throttle. Regardless removing the built in bec from the equation is smart.

 

[XBENOOB]

First you need to disable the red wire from the esc

[ame=

[MEDIA=youtube]rTlz6oPTMe0[/MEDIA][/ame]

 

[Guest]

Are the BECs programmable or come in different configurations? I would like to run 7.4 volts to the steering servo.

 

[XBENOOB]

They are switchable, not programmable. You can set them to 5v or 6v via a jumper.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/ubhvoulbe.html

or

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10313__Turnigy_5A_8_40v_SBEC_for_Lipo_.html

both of them can handle up to 10s lipo as input.

7.4v is a little high for your receiver but 6v it fine for it.

 

[Guest]

Most receivers do just fine on 7.4 volts including the stock flysky. The servo can be direct wired to keep the load out of the receiver. It is night and day running 7.4 volts to the servos. I don't ever want to go back to 6.

 

[DUFFY]

So history does not repeat itself,. You don't need a bec IF you use a rx pack, pull your red esc plug, the esc is isolated. If you want fast as hell servos you want to wire like this. That's a LVC not a reg shown.

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/wiring.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fidy$Trainer

Guys lets keep this simple and clean.

The OP ME is just looking for someone that's knows what there doing. Now I'm confused one post says dissconect the ESC another post says why would you. Please only respond if you have done this and been sucsseful and can tell us HOW TO do this.

Sorry, but there are several ways of doing what you asked about depending on what are your main requirements - which is why you seem to be getting conflicting replies.

The simple answer is that, yes, you can simply plug in a 5V (or even normally a 6V) battery pack to your receiver via an on/off switch (6.6V is probably asking for a burnout - hence requirement for a regulator so that you are certain not to overload the Rx and servos from a fully charged battery pack) but then we have to ask another question.

Is the ESC you have (or have in mind) equipped with BEC or is it OPTO?

If it is OPTO (and has no BEC installed) you need do nothing more. The ESC will receive the power it needs to function via the red wire so do not cut or remove it or it will not work.

If the ESC has BEC integral then it draws its own power from the power battery pack and passes power to the on-board radio via the red wire. In this case the red wire has to be cut or removed from the plug, insulated and the plug inserted in throttle channel as normal.

Most receivers and servos are okay up to 6V supply, but above this is dodgy and you need to specifically check with the various manufacturers that they can handle the over voltage supply.

Be aware also that on higher voltages than the standard regulated 5V ALL of the on board equipment will draw extra current (which will make servos run faster) and decrease the duration of safe operation from your separate receiver pack, whatever its capacity.

As to the capacity of the receiver battery I would not personally be happy using 700mah with 6 servos (of whatever size), unless perhaps you are flying EDF models which have short flight duration anyway, but even then high usage is more likely to drag the battery voltage down to critical level with a small capacity pack.

All my models are currently between 80" span and 144" span and my normal practice is to use a 2S 2000mah LiPo pack running through a separate regulator for the onboard radio gear, but I do not always do this because my models use 1, 2 or 4 motors, each with their own ESC and I have been using more than one integral BEC from time to time either in parallel or stand alone with a power sharing system.

There are many different systems that can be used, some more appropriate to one type of model than another. Hence different answers. We all fly different models and we also fly even similar models differently.

Well said

So yeh if the stock receiver is cool on 7 v then we can just pull the red wire on the esc and use a pack. Or use a bec like suggested. Ill try and see if it works on my xl2 and let you know rc dad lol. It should be just fine. Or go back to 6v on a bec.

 

[Guest]

So yeh if the stock receiver is cool on 7 v then we can just pull the red wire on the esc and use a pack. Or use a bec like suggested. Ill try and see if it works on my xl2 and let you know rc dad lol. It should be just fine. Or go back to 6v on a bec.

Not if I'm running dual 6s or 8s. Maybe I'll just install a 7.4v receiver pack to run the receiver and servo. I would rather have a 7.4v BEC

 

[DUFFY]

Yeh I think I'll run a pack aswell.

 

[BoukeG]

If you run a separate pack, wouldn't you need to connect the - on your packs to each other to make sure the signal passed through?

 

[DUFFY]

No , You don't need the signal to run to the packs, there is a positive a negative and sig. The positive puts power out on your stock esc or xl2. Removing it lets us power the rx with a pack with a voltage reg or with out depending if you worry about that extra volt melting everything Or use a external bec. If we didn't pull the red we would send power back into the esc, breaking it for sure. A lot of people say use a bec, if you want 6v thats what you should do.

 

[Guest]

I found this. What do you think? http://www.wr-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=19&products_id=147 I'm sure there is others state side.