x-can 6" stingers question

[speedbaboon]

hi,


i'm sick of tightening the 6" stingers that always come loose after an hour play, i've put lots and lots of red loctite, left it for a day to make sure the loctite cures, but still the long stingers always come loose. I even have the end of the stingers supported (see pic). Because of this repetitive task, the threads on the stinger and the plate have started to wear out too


My question is, if I solder some leads on the inside of plate where the threads stick out to the plate itself, do you think they will hold???


Will the exhaust heat hot enough to melt the lead??

 

[kryptonite]

i would solder them from the inside. make sure you de-grease well. its not hot enough to melt them..

 

[speedyd]

j b weld from the inside? just a thought.

 

[C.B.]

jb weld would be way better then lead


my long stingers sucked too i cut them dowm to 2 inches and they stopped falling out and the can sounded better


not jb qwik the real stuff that takes forever to set up

 

[speedyd]

i cut mine down as well (put some angle on them so thay have some 'tude).if you do use jb weld make sure the surface is realy clean.

 

[speedbaboon]

so jb weld is capable of high temp??


I like the 6" cos they go right to the back and you can see I put a pair of deflectors (well, exhaust couplers actually ) to direct the exhaust lower. I didnt have these before and the heat from the exhaust gas melted the back of the body ... how sh#*t is that

 

[DemonRC]

Speedbaboon, my buddy has been running 6" stingers on his Baja for 5 months staight and they haven't unscrewed after we made a fix. He doesn't even use locktite anymore since it just liquifies when the motor runs.


Anyways, get some metal hose clamps and tighten em down on your exhaust deflectors so that the stingers don't slip inside the deflectors. Make sure the clamp tightening screws are between the stingers and butt up to each other. Then, use a body clip and/or metal wire to wire the clamps together. This ensures the the stingers cannot unscrew because if one turns counter-clockwise to unscrew it just tightens the opposite side. Oh, also, we did take a dremel and cut shallow grooves into the stingers where the exhaust deflectors slipped over just to make sure they didn't slip when we clamped em down. It's not the prettiest solution but if you do it under the wing nobody will over know.

 

[Piranha2]

Hey Speed, where did you get those deflectors (couplers) ? I have a 77DOM and an Asgard body and need to "deflect" the exhaust down. Thanks in advance.

 

[speedbaboon]

Hey Speed, where did you get those deflectors (couplers) ? I have a 77DOM and an Asgard body and need to "deflect" the exhaust down. Thanks in advance.

hey mate, i got them from here


http://www.rchobbies.com.au/store/product_info.php?cPath=33_377&products_id=22104&osCsid=cae92365ebc06ab1bd4f301425a94c43


i fitted one too onto my rear DOM too when i still had my Baja


OK, so I've put JB WELD on the stingers and the plate threads, still waiting for it to completely cure.


if they still come loose afterwards, eBay is where they go

 

[Piranha2]

Thanks so much.......that thing must sound nice with the "duals"

 

[AlphaDog777]

jb weld can withstand a constant 500f and up to 600 for up to 20 mins... don't hold me to that though.. let me know if it works, though i doubt it wont melt

 

[kryptonite]

i like the soldering idea. that should really hold up good with heat and will easly seep into the threads, but i have never tried it

 

[speedbaboon]

i found out more that jb weld only holds up to 500F / 260C - and have actually read a thread that it melts on nitro engines headers


i'll see what happens when i run mine


the reason i didnt go with the soldering idea cos i didnt think the melted lead will be thin enough to sip into the threads and lead doesn't grip very well on smooth surfaces like aluminium

 

[AlphaDog777]

perhaps if you come at the problem from another angle... A high temp rubber "band" tying the two stingers together preventing them from spinning.. Sounds good in theory

 

[Piranha2]

Get one of those pipe clamps from HD.......kinda looks like an M on top and a W on bottom with a screw thru the middle.....it'll stop them from loosening.

 

[speedbaboon]

had a chance to run it today .... JB Weld melted just after 10mins, those damn stingers come loose again


i can't be f*#ked trying to fit them in again


so now i'm not sure what rear pipe to go there.... you guys in US are lucky to have sprint77 mod all the rear pipes to fit .... down here my choice of rear pipe basically just the stock can or x-can


i'm after a rear pipe that fits under the body and not too loud, any suggestion ????

 

[Rampage.Pete]

rd logics maybe? baja ss would fit too but its loud.... im thinking of sending a ss pipe to sprint77 well header anyways... debating if im going that route or not... i like how the rampage is quiet with stock pipe.... i need a chassis so i can build a second rampage that can be loud and insane one for street and backyard and other for further away from town into bushes

 

[pipeous]

what about gasket cement? I use self hardening form a gasket on a lot of stuff and it's for high heat applications like exhaust headers... or for a more permanent bond aviators gasket cement. I have used both in automotive, and still use the form a gasket stuff on all rc's today (backplates, carbs etc on nitros, and I put it on half my gaskets so it sticks to one part for easier install and removal)

 

[yolonda21]

I tried solder but I could not get it to stick...

 

[speedbaboon]

what about gasket cement? I use self hardening form a gasket on a lot of stuff and it's for high heat applications like exhaust headers... or for a more permanent bond aviators gasket cement. I have used both in automotive, and still use the form a gasket stuff on all rc's today (backplates, carbs etc on nitros, and I put it on half my gaskets so it sticks to one part for easier install and removal)

are you referring to something like Permatex Ultra Copper Silicone Gasket Maker?