cs49230
Member
- Messages
- 65
- Location
- Brooklyn MI
View attachment 7415
First off many thanks to those who support my Redcat MT Paperweight
Rob at Rampageshop.com (cheaper than Redcat.com but still drop ships from Pheonix, faster to order directly from Redcat. 5 days from order to hands in Michigan)
Dave at davesmotors.com (Fast order shipments, 4 days shipping from order to hands)
Support ticket workers at Redcat. (quick to resolve issues, 4 days shipping from order to hands)
3/28/14
The Order
Rampage MT V3 - Black Body - FREE SHIPPING $729.99 ***Includes FREE deluxe vehicle stand valued at $64.99*** (This is just a display stand, don't recommend for a work stand. It is too wobbly and doesn't colapse for transport. I use a wood top bar stool with a towel for a work stand.)
4/2/14
Arrived and inspected missing front right lower bushing in hub carrier.
4/3/14
Turned in a warranty form 9am had an in the mail notice by 4pm.
4/4/14 - 4/8/14
Further inspection time, didn't want threads of screw vibrating against hub carrier plastic, so didn't try to start till I got the bushing installed. Lined the inside of the body with screen mesh and shoe goo. Gave a couple layers in all high stress areas like the corners and post holes.
4/9/14
Missing front hub carrier bushing arrived and installed. Moved my winter work area back out to the shop for the summer.
4/10/14
Failed to start, flooded it, six hours of letting it sit and pulling some more, got a blister and it played hell with my old shoulder. Ordered a Killer RC Power starter.
4/11/14
Only had time for a few (3) trys today, 2 choke pulls, 3 - 4 pulls off choke, then my shoulder would need a rest, still nothing, checked spark, white spark bit weak looking.
4/13/14
Installed power starter from Killer RC cranked it (no choke) several times about 40 seconds of cranking at short 2-4 sec intervals, still nothing. Left to drain floodage overnite upside down without plug, no drainage noted.
4/14/14
Went to local implement shop no NGK CMR7H but did have a NGK CMR6H (bit hotter) checked spark and looks strong bluish white. Good 20 seconds of cranking with no pops.
Pulled carb and gave an inspection, no issues found plenty of fuel, gaskets looked good, but could tell one bolt had more torque than the other, by the dents in the gasket material from the carb flange not sitting evenly on the gasket, no fuel leakage to chassis components. Noticed after leaving the carb unmounted an hour that the compression marks on the gasket had lessened. Should be able to get a good seal if the bolts are re-tightened evenly. No signs of locktite on carb bolts, threads clean.
Re-assembled with good even torqueing of the bolts and some blue loctite. Picked up a 5H at Speedway Auto Parts. Used the 6H plug and checked spark against exhaust can. Noticed an increase in spark when the crank rolled faster. Used my 14.4v 3/8 drill and noticed with the plug in I wasn't getting enough rpm to produce a good spark.
On research found on KillerRc website: You will need an 18v, or higher, drill to start the engine. Your drill needs to have a 3/8? chuck and be able to spin at 1200 RPM, or higher. The faster, the better. DO NOT use an impact drill.
So ordered a new 18v lithium battery 1/2 drill 1600 rpm free spin ($115).
Model # P818
Store SKU # 743076
Internet/Catalog SKU 203466926
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-LITHIUM-Drill-Kit-P818/203466926?quantity=1
4/17/14
Ryobi arrived made several attempts to start with a couple hits where it tried to start but seems to flood out quickly.
4/18/14
The starter adapter from lowes has a wobble in it. Making it difficult to hold the starter steady while cranking and the adapter doesn't want to disengage. Turned in a ticket at Daves Motors and uploaded a video to
.
4/20/14
The center bushing in the starter cover is solid in place and is about .025 off center causing binding when trying to engage/disengage the starter. After rotating the cover 360 degrees trying all 4 alignments. I contacted KillerRC got a quick offer to replace the cover. I tried to remove the bushing and managed to loosen it from the cover enough to get it to wobble. The slop I managed to create between the starter bushing and the cover was enough to get proper engagement and release from the starter.
4/21/14
Played with the low speed needle lowering the setting about 1/16 turn each start attempt. Takes a while to make start attempts as the starter cools down. They caution to only use the starter no more than 10 seconds at a time as it gets quite hot quickly. Spins good without the cover on, but I can't really run it much without the cover. It would be a grass and stick magnet. Finally got it to start at 7/8 low speed needle. It started trying to start at 1 turn out. I ran about 1/3 tank on idle checking temperatures every few minutes. By the time the tank emptied the temps were holding pretty steady, with 156 on the case and 194 on the cylinder. Let it cool back to ambient 78 which matched with other items in the shop. Started with a bump of choke then open crank of about 4 spins with hits, 5th try I held the spin about 5 seconds and it came to life again. Alright time to drive.... Picked it up off the stool turned and dropped it to the driveway from about knee high and noticed something black go shooting across the drive. Walked over to pick it up and see it is a lower shock spring retainer. Go back to the truck and find the lower shock ball end had broken at the shaft. Pictures and off to contact RedcatRC again. warranty form submitted. Went shopping for the part to find it is only available in an $11 shock kit from Redcat, Rampage Shop had the kits for $9 so I ordered 2x.
4/22/14
Rampage comfirmation and UPS tracking in, at UPS sorting center around 9pm.
4/23/14
Redcat sent an email requesting photos. The form didn't allow attaching pics so I just told them I had them. Sent photos about 9am and had a reply by 2pm. With email showing order details, no tracking yet. 6pm
4/24/14
Appears my Rampageshop order is a drop ship from Pheonix (Redcat) due on 28th. Also got replacement part from Redcat being shipped also but tracking hasn't reached sort center yet.
4/26/14
Interesting things. When the shock end broke I ordered a couple shock rebuild kits (only way to buy the lower shock ends) from Rampageshop knowing it would take a day or two to process a warranty claim. Then went to Redcat to turn in a warranty form. This was all on Monday 4/21/14. I got an order confirmation from Rampageshop on the 21st but didn't have tracking till the 23rd being due Mon the 28th. On 23rd got a request from Redcat for my pictures and by 6pm had a shipping confirmation but no tracking yet. Also noticed my parts from Rampageshop were being drop shipped from Pheonix (Redcat). So I wrote off getting to play with my birthday present till after my bday on Sunday. So this morning being Sat. 4/26/14 I checked the mail and my replacement from Redcat has beaten the order from Rampage.
Hurray! put the part in and this time the truck started right up so drove it in circles at just enough throttle to make it move for about 10 minutes. Big turning radius required! Got caught on a u-turn against a fence and while I was straightening it up it stalled. So toed it back to the starter and noticed there was raw fuel behind and on the exhaust can on the starter side (left). Still dry on the right side other than a few spatters. Either the can has a leak or I need to check the gasket at the exhaust manifold. Maybe this leak is why my Lo needle is at 7/8 instead of 1 1/4 turn.
I know from my nitros you can't tune them if there are leaks at the exhaust gasket.
4/27/14 Happy Birthday
Well looks like my Birthday present gets to spend its day on the stand. I put Copper high temp silicon on the can seams and gave them a press with vice grips to seal up all the leaks. Now get to wait for the silicone to set up. I put a glob of the silicon on a scrap and used an applicator. When the remains of the silicone on the scrap sets up should be good to go. Maybe this evening I can make some noise.
May 2014
After sealing the exhaust can I managed a tank worth of 5-10 minute runs before it would stall and refuse to restart till cooled down. Battery box lid managed to pinch the voltage monitor wire (My Fault). Fried voltage monitor and receiver channel 2, where the monitor was plugged in. Replaced the voltage monitor and receiver ($75) adding a rubber grommet to protect wires passing into battery box. After many short runs without a good tune coming in (Lo 7/8 and Hi 1 1/4). I replaced the carburetor and coil ($52). Truck starts as expected with 2 - 3 pulls choked and 1 - 3 pulls open on factory settings of 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 everything runs good and no further tuning really required. The rear screw holes on the battery box lid have stripped already after about 6 charges of the battery. Yes I was really easy on the threads stopping on resistance only, now need a little duct tape to hold rear lid down.
After a short run brought the truck in and checked all the screws and nuts for tightness and headed for the big feild for a real run. About 1/3 of the tank into the run I lost a wheel nut. Back to Redcat and Rampageshop to find the wheel nuts are only available with purchase of 50025 Wheel Mount + Nut + Shaft ($30 w/shipping) for the 1 wheel nut I need. (Note to self, ALWAYS loctite wheel nuts)
Rob at Rampageshop.com (cheaper than Redcat.com but still drop ships from Pheonix, faster to order directly from Redcat. 5 days from order to hands in Michigan)
Dave at davesmotors.com (Fast order shipments, 4 days shipping from order to hands)
Support ticket workers at Redcat. (quick to resolve issues, 4 days shipping from order to hands)
3/28/14
The Order
Rampage MT V3 - Black Body - FREE SHIPPING $729.99 ***Includes FREE deluxe vehicle stand valued at $64.99*** (This is just a display stand, don't recommend for a work stand. It is too wobbly and doesn't colapse for transport. I use a wood top bar stool with a towel for a work stand.)
4/2/14
Arrived and inspected missing front right lower bushing in hub carrier.
4/3/14
Turned in a warranty form 9am had an in the mail notice by 4pm.
4/4/14 - 4/8/14
Further inspection time, didn't want threads of screw vibrating against hub carrier plastic, so didn't try to start till I got the bushing installed. Lined the inside of the body with screen mesh and shoe goo. Gave a couple layers in all high stress areas like the corners and post holes.
4/9/14
Missing front hub carrier bushing arrived and installed. Moved my winter work area back out to the shop for the summer.
4/10/14
Failed to start, flooded it, six hours of letting it sit and pulling some more, got a blister and it played hell with my old shoulder. Ordered a Killer RC Power starter.
4/11/14
Only had time for a few (3) trys today, 2 choke pulls, 3 - 4 pulls off choke, then my shoulder would need a rest, still nothing, checked spark, white spark bit weak looking.
4/13/14
Installed power starter from Killer RC cranked it (no choke) several times about 40 seconds of cranking at short 2-4 sec intervals, still nothing. Left to drain floodage overnite upside down without plug, no drainage noted.
4/14/14
Went to local implement shop no NGK CMR7H but did have a NGK CMR6H (bit hotter) checked spark and looks strong bluish white. Good 20 seconds of cranking with no pops.
Pulled carb and gave an inspection, no issues found plenty of fuel, gaskets looked good, but could tell one bolt had more torque than the other, by the dents in the gasket material from the carb flange not sitting evenly on the gasket, no fuel leakage to chassis components. Noticed after leaving the carb unmounted an hour that the compression marks on the gasket had lessened. Should be able to get a good seal if the bolts are re-tightened evenly. No signs of locktite on carb bolts, threads clean.
Re-assembled with good even torqueing of the bolts and some blue loctite. Picked up a 5H at Speedway Auto Parts. Used the 6H plug and checked spark against exhaust can. Noticed an increase in spark when the crank rolled faster. Used my 14.4v 3/8 drill and noticed with the plug in I wasn't getting enough rpm to produce a good spark.
On research found on KillerRc website: You will need an 18v, or higher, drill to start the engine. Your drill needs to have a 3/8? chuck and be able to spin at 1200 RPM, or higher. The faster, the better. DO NOT use an impact drill.
So ordered a new 18v lithium battery 1/2 drill 1600 rpm free spin ($115).
Model # P818
Store SKU # 743076
Internet/Catalog SKU 203466926
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-LITHIUM-Drill-Kit-P818/203466926?quantity=1
4/17/14
Ryobi arrived made several attempts to start with a couple hits where it tried to start but seems to flood out quickly.
4/18/14
The starter adapter from lowes has a wobble in it. Making it difficult to hold the starter steady while cranking and the adapter doesn't want to disengage. Turned in a ticket at Daves Motors and uploaded a video to
4/20/14
The center bushing in the starter cover is solid in place and is about .025 off center causing binding when trying to engage/disengage the starter. After rotating the cover 360 degrees trying all 4 alignments. I contacted KillerRC got a quick offer to replace the cover. I tried to remove the bushing and managed to loosen it from the cover enough to get it to wobble. The slop I managed to create between the starter bushing and the cover was enough to get proper engagement and release from the starter.
4/21/14
Played with the low speed needle lowering the setting about 1/16 turn each start attempt. Takes a while to make start attempts as the starter cools down. They caution to only use the starter no more than 10 seconds at a time as it gets quite hot quickly. Spins good without the cover on, but I can't really run it much without the cover. It would be a grass and stick magnet. Finally got it to start at 7/8 low speed needle. It started trying to start at 1 turn out. I ran about 1/3 tank on idle checking temperatures every few minutes. By the time the tank emptied the temps were holding pretty steady, with 156 on the case and 194 on the cylinder. Let it cool back to ambient 78 which matched with other items in the shop. Started with a bump of choke then open crank of about 4 spins with hits, 5th try I held the spin about 5 seconds and it came to life again. Alright time to drive.... Picked it up off the stool turned and dropped it to the driveway from about knee high and noticed something black go shooting across the drive. Walked over to pick it up and see it is a lower shock spring retainer. Go back to the truck and find the lower shock ball end had broken at the shaft. Pictures and off to contact RedcatRC again. warranty form submitted. Went shopping for the part to find it is only available in an $11 shock kit from Redcat, Rampage Shop had the kits for $9 so I ordered 2x.
4/22/14
Rampage comfirmation and UPS tracking in, at UPS sorting center around 9pm.
4/23/14
Redcat sent an email requesting photos. The form didn't allow attaching pics so I just told them I had them. Sent photos about 9am and had a reply by 2pm. With email showing order details, no tracking yet. 6pm
4/24/14
Appears my Rampageshop order is a drop ship from Pheonix (Redcat) due on 28th. Also got replacement part from Redcat being shipped also but tracking hasn't reached sort center yet.
4/26/14
Interesting things. When the shock end broke I ordered a couple shock rebuild kits (only way to buy the lower shock ends) from Rampageshop knowing it would take a day or two to process a warranty claim. Then went to Redcat to turn in a warranty form. This was all on Monday 4/21/14. I got an order confirmation from Rampageshop on the 21st but didn't have tracking till the 23rd being due Mon the 28th. On 23rd got a request from Redcat for my pictures and by 6pm had a shipping confirmation but no tracking yet. Also noticed my parts from Rampageshop were being drop shipped from Pheonix (Redcat). So I wrote off getting to play with my birthday present till after my bday on Sunday. So this morning being Sat. 4/26/14 I checked the mail and my replacement from Redcat has beaten the order from Rampage.
Hurray! put the part in and this time the truck started right up so drove it in circles at just enough throttle to make it move for about 10 minutes. Big turning radius required! Got caught on a u-turn against a fence and while I was straightening it up it stalled. So toed it back to the starter and noticed there was raw fuel behind and on the exhaust can on the starter side (left). Still dry on the right side other than a few spatters. Either the can has a leak or I need to check the gasket at the exhaust manifold. Maybe this leak is why my Lo needle is at 7/8 instead of 1 1/4 turn.
I know from my nitros you can't tune them if there are leaks at the exhaust gasket.
4/27/14 Happy Birthday
Well looks like my Birthday present gets to spend its day on the stand. I put Copper high temp silicon on the can seams and gave them a press with vice grips to seal up all the leaks. Now get to wait for the silicone to set up. I put a glob of the silicon on a scrap and used an applicator. When the remains of the silicone on the scrap sets up should be good to go. Maybe this evening I can make some noise.
May 2014
After sealing the exhaust can I managed a tank worth of 5-10 minute runs before it would stall and refuse to restart till cooled down. Battery box lid managed to pinch the voltage monitor wire (My Fault). Fried voltage monitor and receiver channel 2, where the monitor was plugged in. Replaced the voltage monitor and receiver ($75) adding a rubber grommet to protect wires passing into battery box. After many short runs without a good tune coming in (Lo 7/8 and Hi 1 1/4). I replaced the carburetor and coil ($52). Truck starts as expected with 2 - 3 pulls choked and 1 - 3 pulls open on factory settings of 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 everything runs good and no further tuning really required. The rear screw holes on the battery box lid have stripped already after about 6 charges of the battery. Yes I was really easy on the threads stopping on resistance only, now need a little duct tape to hold rear lid down.
After a short run brought the truck in and checked all the screws and nuts for tightness and headed for the big feild for a real run. About 1/3 of the tank into the run I lost a wheel nut. Back to Redcat and Rampageshop to find the wheel nuts are only available with purchase of 50025 Wheel Mount + Nut + Shaft ($30 w/shipping) for the 1 wheel nut I need. (Note to self, ALWAYS loctite wheel nuts)
