Rear suspension -shock travel-ect-ect

[alfred e numan]

There seems to be quite a few here that have had diff problems- I wonder if this could be a factor? I have -xb buggy -gas. remove the rear tires- rear shock springs, put the shock back on. by hand, move the suspension tru its travel- on my car- when there is about 1-1 1/2" before bottoming out the sway bar is almost in contact with the dog bone only have one car- no idea if this happens with the tt- trucks- owners-check em out and post the results, A slightly longer end link would do the trick- this binding is not present on the front suspension on my xb gasser.

 

[Guest]

Yeah I know what ya mean. I've been looking mine over since I bought it. I really think it is just a week point. The dif cases hold the entire weight of the buggy. If the aluminum brace that holdes the lower arms was thicker and bolted to the chassis, and the shock towers went to the chassis instead of just hanging off the top of the dif, that would help. Unfortunately that would be a major redesign. A aluminum dif case with better bearings would solve the problem all together. The xb gassers were not designed to be top dog. They were designed to be an entry level 5th scale car, so there are some week points. IMO for what they cost, there f'n great! I am hoping 7075 comes out with an aluminum dif case. That would be the fix

 

[alfred e numan]

rear suspension

Yes I agree - this car cannot be beat for the $$, Never had a problem with the housing coming loose, I just added about 1/8 turn to the bolts after the first load of gas was burned, they remain tight. I was mistaken a little on the 1st post- the sway bar-dog bone contact occurs when there is 3/8" travel left on the rear shock. I will make a cross country trip-75 miles to Hobby town with the sway bar assembly and look for a shorter link, 2 piece would be ideal. I settled in with team Associated-lucas 25 wt front-rear, the rear shocks are e-z to bleed - the fronts- the oil is cheap to buy, I am gonna snag 3 or 4 bottles, get a small tupperware contaner and assemble the front shocks under fluid, when ya bleed ya get fluid all over anyway, just hang the shock on a wire after assembly and lit the excess drip back into the container.This car has the stock engine. I added a billet intake, 990, 1" velocity stack, dt1 3 stage filter with Maxama fft oil, jet pro rear mount, To start this 1st pull every time- I pull the plug, add 10 drops of pre-mix. after it runs it always lites up 1 st pull, I just - no sense cranking cold dry engine. I have read HPI sites These buggies have there fair share of warts, more than the xb does and they look a hell of a lot harder to work on, I want one!! for the dunes!! the ss model.

 

[Guest]

If name brand is not important to you king motors makes a clone to the ss. Parts are compatible between the two. The prices start about the cost of the XB.

 

[ohdeeuhm]

The HPI 5b/5t/5sc rigs are definitely a PITA to work on lol. I was so intimidated when I first got my 5t. I wanted to check the diff for fluid -- and I did-- but it took me an hour to get the diff out haha.

I'm going to get myself an XB for Christmas though. I've been doing the research and I think this buggy will be perfect for me. I really wanted a MCD RRv4 but the cost is just too much for me right now. If I could go back in time I would not have spent $3500 on my Baja 5t and all the crazy hop ups.

 

[Guest]

I'm going to get myself an XB for Christmas though. I've been doing the research and I think this buggy will be perfect for me. I really wanted a MCD RRv4 but the cost is just too much for me right now. If I could go back in time I would not have spent $3500 on my Baja 5t and all the crazy hop ups.

I think you'll like it. I f'n luv mine. They are a blast to drive. Some have had bad luck with theirs, but there are many more that have had fewer issues. Most are small and can be fixed with simple hop ups. Enjoy it when you get it!

 

[Guest]

Did you ever find any shorter sway bar links? You can see in the photo the top suspension link hitting the sway bay link. The lower suspension arm is not even hitting the stop on the chassis.

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[alfred e numan]

No, aint been to hobby town yet, last time i was flogging the big xb around the football field it blew the base gasket- heard it change exhaust exhaust noise- hit the kill button. no damage, trimmed to fit a DDM .012" copper- lite coat of copper-kote both sides, torqued to spec. these hy motors have no dowels- next tear down i will slide 2 or these guys over the bolts- say- i still have 0.85mm squish clearence!!, reset the coil to 03mm, swappped out the 1" V stack for a 3/4", had a film of oil around the ada -teflon intake- the sealing surface needs more meat in the jug- here is a good fix- a VERY thin film of Hondabond #4 on the metal intake- take care not to plug the pulse hole - suck this #4 into the W-990, runs with more power now-with 4 grp medium front bulldogs, stock clutch, smooth dry pavement at 50 degrees temp- it will break all 4 tires after about 5 feet, and burn tire for approx 25-30 feet then hook up-pretty decent little engine!!, i will get the end-links this weekend for the sway-bar- thats-all folks!!!

 

[Guest]

I now ran into the second problem. I am installing 7075 RC C-hubs and they hit the lower suspension arm. I am installing taller shocks. My goal was to get more droop and travel. It is now the 7075 RC C-hub that stops the downward travel. I was thinking I would be cutting the stops off the chassis but the lower arm doesn't even get close to touching it.

The c-hub is a great part if you want stock suspension travel. With the new hubs in there is not enough suspension droop for the sway bar link to touch the upper suspension link. You see with the shock unhooked, the c-hub won't lean back enough to touch the upper link.

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[alfred e numan]

murfeys law agan

man, thats a hellava note- bout all ya can do is fire up the compressor and break out the quarter inch die grinder- hate to see ya grind on the new hubs though- can you remove materal off the a-arms anggain required clearance?? just a thought----its hard to know 100% tru photos-

 

[Guest]

Yeah, I'm thinking of shaving the front lower side of the c hub just enough to get it to lay back to the lower arm. I don't want to shave any plastic. It would get weak real fast.

 

[Guest]

Problem solved.

I hated the idea of grinding such a nice part. I couldn't stop worrying about it so out to the garage I just went. LOL. I was able to dremal off just the inside corner of the lower suspension arm. That gave the c hub all the clearance it needs, and with the longer shocks I gained at least 1 inch of travel.

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