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Newbie with an XT here

j-bomber

Junior Member
Messages
3
Hey Guyz,


I'm new to 1/5 scale; new to gas, and just ordered an XT -- should arrive in a few days or a week. Anyway, I've read so much that my head is spinning. Many threads suggest break-in by burning a tank of gas at idle while others say it's unnecessary. Seems to make sense -- I don't recall have to break in my 30cc weed wacker. But besides that, I'll probably break it in none the less.


After that, since I'm new to the scale and scared poopless of the power, I'll probably just do some light bashing around the yard. Here's a couple of questions from Mr. McNewbie:


1. Do these come RTR, with the radio dialed, servos connected, etc.?


2. If I'm bashing and jumping, are there Aluminum aftermarket replacement parts available for the XT?


3. Can the XT be retro-fitted with the 700cc gas tank for longer runs? How long will the rig run on a 500cc tank of gas with the 30cc motor?


4. Besides using 91 octane, and special oil I should use? Are there RC-specific oils, or is a good 2-stroke good enough?


I love the energy on this forum. I can tell that the Rampage is a great choice just by watching videos and reading threads. I'm STOKED!
 

camo

Senior Member
Messages
194
Location
Houston, TX
coil ignition engines don't require special break in periods because the piston-cylinder/sleeve is not tapered like a nitro. However, the idea of leaving idle a full tank is just to make sure all parts are settle properly for when you start running. you won't see the full power of the engine until like after the 4th or 5th tank, so don't try to force top performance by tuning it, just have fun in the mean time. And about the gas.... just make sure you put good quality gas and some good oil to extend the life on your engine. hope that helps a bit.
 

muley

Junior Member
Messages
17
Location
Cape Cod
When I get mine I'm going to do at least some kind of break in. The Zenoah engines in different r/c vehicles take about a full gallon of non synthetic, heat soaking, limited rpms with varying speed, etc.to break in properly, ie seat the ring to the cylinder walls. I'm not sure if these engines are that much different or if cars inherently run more like a break in proceedure, cause most of the guys on the car forums don't do anything special and they run fine. I'm just thinking there is no harm in following the ritual I do with my helicopter engines to make sure I get the most power and life out of the mill.
 

DemonRC

Senior Member
Messages
1,846
Location
Houston, TX
1. Do these come RTR, with the radio dialed, servos connected, etc.?


Can't comment there. I bought a roller.


2. If I'm bashing and jumping, are there Aluminum aftermarket replacement parts available for the XT?


Rob from RampageHopups and Darin from Redcat said in another post that it will be a month or so before the alloy parts are available. I know Darin was polling us about annodizing color so he is probably getting ready to order the parts. It might take a few weeks to get the annodizing done and then 3-4 weeks for shipping if it's coming by boat. That is just a guess though.


3. Can the XT be retro-fitted with the 700cc gas tank for longer runs? How long will the rig run on a 500cc tank of gas with the 30cc motor?


I'm getting 25-30 minutes on mine. I'm running a heavily modded 26cc which sucks alot of gas though. Unless your racing and have 30 minute mains you won't need a 700cc. It's possible to fit the old 700cc in there with some mods. It might stick out the sides of your chassis though.


4. Besides using 91 octane, and special oil I should use? Are there RC-specific oils, or is a good 2-stroke good enough?


Alot of guys run synthetic 2 stroke oils for motorcycles. Klotz is a common name and it's what I use. It also smells like cherries which is a plus. It reminds me of my nitro days. Daves Motors sells it by the quart for $10.


http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.3312/.f


I wouldn't buy any synthetic off the shelf at Wal Mart or Autozone. Some of the cheaper synthetics are not full synthetics. They are actually a blend of about 30% synthetic oil and other mineral lubes.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

j-bomber

Junior Member
Messages
3
Much Thanx!


Thanks, Guys, for all the good info. I can't wait to get 'er and get 'er up and running.
 

dale_gribble

Member
Messages
59
Don't worry about the power, noise and size. Just like anything else, you get used to it after a while.
 

Zapped

Senior Member
Messages
295
Location
St.Lucia
cordy said:
Ok here is a picture of the pipe, 100_0249.jpg
Thanks Cordy,I can't wait to get mine. Looks like we will have to put a stinger on the end of the pipe or else the wing stay will get a lot of heat.
 

Zapped

Senior Member
Messages
295
Location
St.Lucia
camo said:
The wing won't suffer from heat at all, but it will be sputtered by burnt oil.
Camo,not the wing itself but the stays,it looks like the exhaust blows between the two of them.
 

camo

Senior Member
Messages
194
Location
Houston, TX
I see. still that plastic take that heat with no problem. anyway, you might want to do some testing before deciding onto the stringer thing, I had a stringer on my FG torque pipe and it was hurting the performance of the engine.
 

Zapped

Senior Member
Messages
295
Location
St.Lucia
camo said:
I see. still that plastic take that heat with no problem. anyway, you might want to do some testing before deciding onto the stringer thing, I had a stringer on my FG torque pipe and it was hurting the performance of the engine.
I know what you mean about the stinger.If I do put a stinger it would start out as the same size as the exhaust tip and end wider,kinda like a funnel but more cylindrical.So it should not slow down the exhaust flow to much......hopefully.
 

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