Kill switch keeps shutting me down :(

[Guest]

The servos always seem to get stuck durring full throttle. So then there is no brakes.

The kill switches don't care much for Spektrum radios.

They act up with bad spark plug insulators.

Bad receivers, servos and loose connections can all trigger shutdowns.

 

[Guest]

You might have a compromised receiver.

 

[chrispc66]

You are correct and thanks. It's a matter of random work or not with me, no real issue with unwanted shutdowns, more of a randomness failure during testing before bashing.

On occasion I did have starting problems with the blooming things. I understand a 3 channel radio is necessary for reliable kill switch performance, but for what I do, the fail safe is fine and adequate.

Cheers

 

[TheCount]

I have my DR throttle/ brake setup in reverse. It goes full throttle when the stock failsafe works. Lol so a kill switch is a must for me. I did get random shutdowns. But it was my stock receiver & a failing servo. All good now.

 

[Chief409]

Loss of signal from TX, caused by dead TX battery. OOPS.

 

[Chief409]

Had so much trouble with killer bees and other kill switches that I've removed them completely. I can see the advantage of a kill switch, don't get me wrong, but for the casual basher I am, the failsafe works fine. I only bash in areas where there are no people, and I guess the only risk is throttle servo failure, stopping the fail-safe from applying brakes if out of range. I ensure my batteries are in top charge condition before each bash.

So until the throttle servo breaks, I'll stick to the fail-safe. It works fine, I test it before each run and have deliberately drove my units out of range and they just stop dead. The out of range is a hell of a distance too.

The only reason for fail-safe failure, LOL, is flat receiver battery or throttle servo failure...yes?

Loss of Signal caused by dead TX battery or malfunction. It can or will happen. On the splitter you can try placing a piece of heat shrink on the plug, keep the wires seperated and fill with silicon or RTV. Then heat the heat shrink after the stuff cures. Use a hair dryier or heat gun, not an open flame.

 

[Chief409]

I also noticed DDM has the spark plug cable with the metal shield over the plug cap, same as what FG uses, now. Might help.

 

[Guest]

I also noticed DDM has the spark plug cable with the metal shield over the plug cap, same as what FG uses, now. Might help.

I would be curious to hear if it helps or works. http://www.davesmotors.com/ee308zenoahx374320099ignitionrepairkit

 

[Deluge]

That's about the same price as a new coil.

 

[alfred e numan]

Spendy cap. Nice looking though. It will not make any diff to the amount of electrical noise. Looks like it would secure the wire-cap - to the plug better. I think the plugs we use are a resistor type? This is also used on lots of full sized car-trucks to reduce the interference to the cars radio - electronics. If you are not into spending this sorta coin on a nice cap- go to a small engine repair shop and ask the dude that actually does the work for a cap- most will be happy to help when you start bull-shitting with them- tell them about what we get outta a small hobby engine-- 4-5 horse- never know, might bring more people into 1/5 th--- have a good one-- a numan.

 

[Deluge]

Yep, they're resistors. They're designed to reduce RFI.

 

[Chief409]

The other source for noise is the mag itself. I'm using Super Bee's on my buggy's, there's a choke on the cable to the mag to reduce that (the big fat wart). The choke makes it difficult getting the cable under the fan shroud so that the shroud goes back on correctly the first time, and all the plugs stay put while putting on the fan cover, but it's necessary. After the first tank the heat and vibration has the cable shaped in place. So far I haven't had any problems with the Super Bee. Last time out I had forgotten to charge the TX battery pack, when the TX battery pack died, so did the engine. Works as advertised.

 

[alfred e numan]

Yes, thats another noise area in the cars we run. For those with a thin wallet, a place to aquire these electrical chokes is--- The dump. The nice way of saying this - transfer station. Nearly all of these places have a shipping container for all the used electronics. These chokes are on most of the cables for computers. You want to look for the small chokes that are usually seen on the wiring harness that connects cameras to a p.c. Next time ya go to the dump, just keep a set of side cutters in the truck. Free is good.

 

[alfred e numan]

Every time i go to the transfer station Spank has to go- he thinks it smells good there. When i get ready to leave this rather stinky place, I look at someone else there- point to the dog, and say- look someone discarded a perfectly good dog, he appears to be in good working order--- LOL! Never a dull moment if i have anything to do with it---

 

[Killer RC]

The other source for noise is the mag itself. I'm using Super Bee's on my buggy's, there's a choke on the cable to the mag to reduce that (the big fat wart). The choke makes it difficult getting the cable under the fan shroud so that the shroud goes back on correctly the first time, and all the plugs stay put while putting on the fan cover, but it's necessary. After the first tank the heat and vibration has the cable shaped in place. So far I haven't had any problems with the Super Bee. Last time out I had forgotten to charge the TX battery pack, when the TX battery pack died, so did the engine. Works as advertised.

FYI, you can unclip that filter and move it down the cable. But keep it near the engine.

I think some guys problems here is that they are using a 3rd channel kill switch with a 2 channel transmitter. That 3rd channel on the receiver is not a good signal. Get a real 3 channel radio.

or

If you have a 2 channel radio and a Super Bee kill switch you need to get a splitter cable and let the super bee share your throttle channel. Then flip down the #1 dip switch on the Super Bee to turn off Aux control.

 

[Guest]

Another problem that have been found with the FS receivers, is a bad antenna wire connection. This can cause a glitch and trigger the switch.