Clutch won't engage well

[ipsagel]

Hi rampage guys!


I owned a Rampage Mt and had used it for not more than 20 hrs total run time since I opened it from the box. I noticed when I started running it that the clutch doesn't engage well, but just don't give much importance of it until I've done with the engine break-in.


This time I tried running it with full trottle and noticed that the truck was so clumsy and doesn't have enough torque to push the truck. I tried climbing it to 30 degrees hill but the truck could not climb and the wheels stop spinning. While reving the engine the clutch just slip the clutch bell. One day i broke the clutch spring while running the truck.


I ordered a high responce spring from DDM the red colored one I think it's 8000 rpm. after installing it and make a test run the more that the cluch won't engage well, it just barely move the truck in full trottle. So I get back ordering the original spring and ended up with the same problem as before.


My engine is the stock rampage 23 cc engine- do you think guys my engine cannot rev up to 6000 rpm or more to pruduce a centrifugal force that will stretch the spring so that the clutch will engage to the clutch bell? I already made adjustment with the carb a little leaner than the factory setting and I'm


afraid if I keep on leaning it my engine will be damage.

 

[kryptonite]

whats up bud!! so a couple things.. you have about 20 hrs on the rig?. not sure how many gallons that is, but it sounds like a good amount.. have you replaced the clutch yet?. sometimes a spring will break from over heating wich is couse by the clutch "slipping". wich is a sign of simply a worn clutch. wich at your amount of time it appears you could be close or in need of a new clutch.. another thing. when you re-installed the clutch, did you make sure the washers were there? one thick washer and one pressure washer per screw. thick washer goes towards the case. its like a shim and allows the clutch to open freely. if its not there it will bind up on you.. also, is the motor screaming or is it just kinda bogging down. i knwo you said you leaned out, but if its bogging on the low end you may have to lean out the low needle. but it sounds like a worn clutch.. hope this helps

 

[ipsagel]

Yes it sound like a worned out clutch, but that 20 hours total run time maybe I just consumed a little more or less a gallon of fuel. In every hour that I run my truck, just 1 full tank of fuel I usually consumed. I don't think it's enough to worn out the cutch and also the problem was already there when I first run the truck out from the box - just didn't mind it because I cannot run it yet in full trottle I'm still breaking -in the engine. After leaning the carb it shows a little improvement- the engine screams when reving and there's no sign of hesitation but still its not enough. When I replace the spring the wshers were there the thick on back and the thin one on the front of the clutch.

 

[Lizardking]

20hrs of run time I would say you're way past engine break in.

 

[kryptonite]

ya, maybe we are mis-understand.. breakin is optional at that, and maybe 2 tank.. my break-in consist of brake-ing..LOL!!. so lets see if we can sort this out.. lets say 20 tanks of fuel. , but you have always noticed it? are you sure the moter is really over reving and slipping verse simply out of tune? put it up on a stand and rev to the top.. then give it a go on the ground. is the rpm's peaking while on the ground or is it just lacking in power? if you run in sand, its easy to blow out a clutch in just a few tanks. and 20 good tanks in the dirt, you wont be far behind.


-is the motor over reving?


-is it losing power, but NOT over reving?

 

[Lizardking]

Have you seen this- read it there are some good tips and maintenance including tuning.


http://www.davesmotors.com/c.885035/site/rccar-faq.html

 

[DemonRC]

I had the grub screws on the D gear shaft back out and it didn't move like the clutch wasn't engaging. To find out where the problem is, take your gear cover off and put your truck up to a wall. Rev your engine and watch what moves and what doesn't. It should be pretty obvious when watching the gears where the slippage is occuring.

 

[kryptonite]

ya, i thought something simular. maybe one of the gear hubs or something.. but he stated that its always been like that.............for about 20 tanks!! i think that would have gottin really bad very quickly. to the point of no movement.. im really wondering whats going on with his rig, clutch,gear hubs, tuning? if he cant fugure it out, maybe he can get us a vid or soemthing. we will know right away then

 

[NEWCARNAGE]

It might be the clutch plate bolt the one thats pressed onto the crank. That the clutch mounts to just spinning on the shaft. or there is no clutch material left he sees a little bit thinking thats enough. But not enough to engage

 

[DemonRC]

It might be the clutch plate bolt the one thats pressed onto the crank.

Ya could be that too. It's happened to me twice. If he takes the gear cover off, puts it up to a wall, and revs it, he should know right away.

 

[ipsagel]

I'm sure that the grab screw didn't backed out becauase I replaced the clutch spring twice, and I have to take out gears b,c, and d in order to remove the gear plate. I attatched some photos on the clutch assembly and the clutch bell for you to analyze for I beleived you are more experienced than me- I'm just new to this hobby. But as I looked at it there are still enough pads on the clutch it's still thick. I'm thinking of the engine after the break-in that it doesn't give enough RPM more than 8000 to make the cluth engage fully. My basis on this analysis was the high response clutch spring it's rated to 8000 RPM, when I tried using it, it just barely move my truck in full trottle while the engine was screaming loud and there's no bogging out of the engine.It means that the engine can give only 8000 rpm and has to be tuned-up correctly. One thing that I'm not sure in tuning-up the engine is how far do I need to lean the high & the low end needles safely without causing damage to the engine? and is there a sign that the engine has got enough adjustment like over heating or anything that makes awarning.

 

[C.B.]

don't run home depot chain saw oil yuck

 

[mooman007uk]

Does the motor start easy? just wondering if you've damaged the cylinder running too lean and lost all your compression

 

[ipsagel]

When the engine is cold, about 5 to 6 cranks and after warming it up 1 to 2 cranks. I'm using the regular unleaded gasoline, does it affects the engine's performance?

 

[mooman007uk]

I always use premium but regular is fine and wouldn't cause your problem.


8000rpm is not real high revs on these motors, you say your motor was screaming so I could only assume it's revving beyond 8000 so could be driveline.


Have you tried checking the grub screws on the alloy connector that the brake shoes sit on? mine has come loose several times...also check the pinion grub screws at the diffs.


hold b,c+d gears and try to push it forward, if you can and c+d don't move then the problem is further down your drivetrain.

 

[DemonRC]

If he takes the gear cover off, puts it up to a wall, and revs it, he should know right away.


Just use some deductive logic. If the clutch bell doesn't spin then it's the clutch. If the clutch bell spins but gear A doesn't move then it's the grub screw under gear A. Continue down the line to gear D. If gear D spins but the collar under the brake pads doesn't then it's either the grub screwn under D or the grub screw under the brake pads.


It's like the yellow brick road. Just follow it.

 

[kryptonite]

I'm sure that the grab screw didn't backed out becauase I replaced the clutch spring twice, and I have to take out gears b,c, and d in order to remove the gear plate. I attatched some photos on the clutch assembly and the clutch bell for you to analyze for I beleived you are more experienced than me- I'm just new to this hobby. But as I looked at it there are still enough pads on the clutch it's still thick. I'm thinking of the engine after the break-in that it doesn't give enough RPM more than 8000 to make the cluth engage fully. My basis on this analysis was the high response clutch spring it's rated to 8000 RPM, when I tried using it, it just barely move my truck in full trottle while the engine was screaming loud and there's no bogging out of the engine.It means that the engine can give only 8000 rpm and has to be tuned-up correctly. One thing that I'm not sure in tuning-up the engine is how far do I need to lean the high & the low end needles safely without causing damage to the engine? and is there a sign that the engine has got enough adjustment like over heating or anything that makes awarning.

bro. were did you get that cage from?!? did you make that? looks awsome


well its sounding more and more like a tuning issue. maybe your running too rich? so lets check the plug. if its really dar brown and oily then you are too rich. if its like a clean chocalate color then you are good. grey is too lean. when you leaned it out what needle did you adjust?

 

[mooman007uk]

If he takes the gear cover off, puts it up to a wall, and revs it, he should know right away.


Just use some deductive logic. If the clutch bell doesn't spin then it's the clutch. If the clutch bell spins but gear A doesn't move then it's the grub screw under gear A. Continue down the line to gear D. If gear D spins but the collar under the brake pads doesn't then it's either the grub screwn under D or the grub screw under the brake pads.


It's like the yellow brick road. Just follow it.

very well put Sherlock

 

[yolonda21]

After looking at your pics i noticed that you do no have the metal sleeves in your gear plate, also noticed that they were not on the screws, aand the back of the gear plate is slightly squished. Leading me to believe that your clutch bell is pressing against the clutch, not alowing it to engage (open) freely. Check your stock gear plate for the sleeves.

 

[ipsagel]

If he takes the gear cover off, puts it up to a wall, and revs it, he should know right away.


Just use some deductive logic. If the clutch bell doesn't spin then it's the clutch. If the clutch bell spins but gear A doesn't move then it's the grub screw under gear A. Continue down the line to gear D. If gear D spins but the collar under the brake pads doesn't then it's either the grub screwn under D or the grub screw under the brake pads.


It's like the yellow brick road. Just follow it.

Yup, I know that the clutch bell did not spin under a certain load. As I said earlier that I tried the truck to climb on a hill but was unable to climb. The wheels were not spinning as I rev the engine. So I looked at the clutch bell through the window in between the gear plate and the clutch housing... it won't spin even if the engine was screaming, leading me to beleive that the clutch spring is too stiff for the clutch to open or the engine doesn't have enough rpm to open the clutch.