XB-E doesn't accelerate straight

[Mozenrath]

Hi guys. Ran my new XB-E for about 2 hours in total, but noticed that it doesn't go straight especially when it accelerates. It always leans to the right on the acceleration or when it goes backwards even when subtrim it to steer a bit left. However it drives straight when the speed is constant.


I checked suspension settings, toe/camber, bearings. Everything seems fine. Please help me to figure this out


Andrey

 

[cordy]

Have you checked that your steering servo is centered? Remove your steering servo horn. Then set yor steering trim to nutral.Turn on the transmitter and let the servo center itself.When its centered hold your wheels straight and try to put the servo horn at 90 degrees,it may be one tooth off but will be close.Also check your end point adjustment.Also check your motor mount is tight and alinged.Sounds like something is loose because it pulls to the left under load(higher rpms).The guy`s will jump in here that have a lot more knoweldge than I do.Hope this helps.

 

[Mozenrath]

Thank you very much Cordy! Will do this tomorrow and post the results ASAP. Going to check the shocks also because the front ones are too stiff in my opinion.

For the steering - thinking of buying a hitec servo, but not sure which one to choose from: HS-5805MG or HS-5755MG, or maybe there are other good large scale servos to look at?

Another thing is the stock motor - it is really hot, can hardly touch it, however ESC and batteries (I use 3s 6000 25-50c nano-tech turnigy from hobbyking in series and I have like an hour runtime on them - maybe because I'm driving slowly ). Searched the forum and found out that people are suggesting to buy TP 5692 Series 1300kv motor. What do you think about it?

After like 5 minute quick run on low grass one bearing in the rear started to give up, reassembled and greased it - it is better now, but looking on 7075rc bearing holders with larger bearings Could it be because I probably overtightened wheel nut and the wheel hub gave the bearing too much pressure? In comparison - hpi baja 5b has a pin through the axle which doesn't let the hub and wheel press the bearing at all.

 

[Guest]

Yes you can go through a set of bearings fast if you over tighten the wheel nuts.

The 7075 RC parts are a great investment.

The HobbyKing 5692 has had great reviews also. I am still waiting to try one. They are currently on back order.

 

[Deluge]

Thank you very much Cordy! Will do this tomorrow and post the results ASAP. Going to check the shocks also because the front ones are too stiff in my opinion.For the steering - thinking of buying a hitec servo, but not sure which one to choose from: HS-5805MG or HS-5755MG, or maybe there are other good large scale servos to look at?

Another thing is the stock motor - it is really hot, can hardly touch it, however ESC and batteries (I use 3s 6000 25-50c nano-tech turnigy from hobbyking in series and I have like an hour runtime on them - maybe because I'm driving slowly ). Searched the forum and found out that people are suggesting to buy TP 5692 Series 1300kv motor. What do you think about it?

After like 5 minute quick run on low grass one bearing in the rear started to give up, reassembled and greased it - it is better now, but looking on 7075rc bearing holders with larger bearings Could it be because I probably overtightened wheel nut and the wheel hub gave the bearing too much pressure? In comparison - hpi baja 5b has a pin through the axle which doesn't let the hub and wheel press the bearing at all.

The 5755 would be more than enough for the XB-E.

 

[bigfol]

My hobbyking motor is the 1000kv version, never gets hot, even when it geared tall,(16/41),great motor for the price, half the price of the leopard, Its taking a while to come back into stock though.....the tp is same motor but twice the cost.7075 everything is a must, can't wait to get the new chassis he is bringing out.....

 

[Mozenrath]

Good day everyone! A little update on my xbe - received and installed TBR bumper set (front and rear) - excellent quality as always (have one on my hpi e-firestorm also).

Sidenote for factory workers who assembled my car - one of the screws in the rear is lose and I can't tighten it. That screw was probably overtightened on the factory and was set on green threadlock there (lol). If that worker read my post - please don't do that again to others, ok? Peace. That screw holds rear diff housing so... planning an upgrade to metal diff housings from 7075rc. I don't have green threadlock so just used the red one (I know, I know - it is for metal to metal connections, however!).

Didn't have time to check everything you guys told me, so please excuse me - haven't run my xb-e for a week already.

P.S.: will appreciate if a moderator can move this thread to XB-E projects section

 

[Mozenrath]

Ran my XB-E on the local track for the first time, very impressed how the car handles, jumps and lands perfectly. Runtime on single charge 6000mah was 20 minutes. Temperatures in Celsius: motor 70, ESC 35, batteries 44 (turnigy nano-tech 3S 6000mah - they puffed a bit, but now they are back to normal).Thinking about purchasing 6s 8000 turnigy (195x50x55mm size) in parallel for double capacity - 16000mah. Is there any 3rd party company that makes battery holders which will fit XB-E?

After the run I checked the screws, one screw in the front hub nearly dropped, thanks to batteries for discharging right in time

Another thing is the body which cracked in the place where it holds motor wires. Very very strange, surprised... I didn't hit any obstacle at all and it broke like a glass, even few pieces with diameter ~1" dropped somewhere. People on russian forum say it is normal for bodies manufactured in china. Well, is there any other good bodies for XB-E? I saw one made by Grafil - http://www.rcpitstop.net/grafil-bodies.html Any ideas?

 

[Deluge]

Yep. Shattered bodies are pretty common. The Grafil body would be an upgrade, for sure.