Stripped Chassis Countersunk Screws

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pfrederi1

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Ok so I know this may not be a "new" topic but from the ones Ive read I havent found a surefire solution to my problem. For one the screws Im talking about cannot use the dremmel method without damaging the chassis because they are countersunk (flat with the chassis) so thats out. I also bought a tap bit from HD just seemed to strip the crap out of it more.

Any viable solutions out there? I saw a post that said use a torx head. Ok but is it a special torx head or just put a torx head in there and go to work to further stripping the crap out of it. Any more detail would be appreciated.

Also another post said to drill the head off and then use pliers. Im not sure if i understand that method. How do i drill the head off. If i drill the head off therell be nothing for me to grab with the pliers because its countersunk in the chassis.

I have at least 3 to 4 countersunk chassis screws thats stripped (SMH)


Any help would be appreciated.
Thx
 

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Petrolheadz100

Petrolheadz100

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Just got mine out same issue motor screw and a extractor broke inside, i did was soak with pb blaster overnight, then with a centerpunch make a angled hole on the outer side of the head carefully, then wih a small chisel hammer it counter clockwise and it will break loose (forgot to mention i also applied a soldering gun tip to the screw until it got pretty hot, that helps too.....let me know if this worked it did for me
 
sunoco

sunoco

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if the bolts go into plastic oil the threads with remington gun oil- the spray bottle is affordable at wal-mart- spray-wipe it off with cloth while turning the screw with wrench.- the 2 bolts that anchor the botton fan shroud- replace with slightly over sized phillips screws- the head of the screws does not have to be flush with the bottom of chassis. try to find black steel oxide screws- or- decent quality stainless steel. - put the lok-tite- blue-red- whatever away. use this-- Vibra-Tite vc3 threadmate. - brush this on clean threads, let it dry .- then assemble.- this stuff stops the dreaded "pop" sound- or stripped hex heads you get with lok-tite. - gunsmiths use this vibra-tite often. - Another way to help? go to ddm- look for tonys screwkit- hpi baja.-- these are grade 12.9 black oxide-- your wrenches will round off before these screws strip. I talked to tony on phone, suggested making screw kits for redcats-- www.tonysscrews.com.
 
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pfrederi1

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if the bolts go into plastic oil the threads with remington gun oil- the spray bottle is affordable at wal-mart- spray-wipe it off with cloth while turning the screw with wrench.- the 2 bolts that anchor the botton fan shroud- replace with slightly over sized phillips screws- the head of the screws does not have to be flush with the bottom of chassis. try to find black steel oxide screws- or- decent quality stainless steel. - put the lok-tite- blue-red- whatever away. use this-- Vibra-Tite vc3 threadmate. - brush this on clean threads, let it dry .- then assemble.- this stuff stops the dreaded "pop" sound- or stripped hex heads you get with lok-tite. - gunsmiths use this vibra-tite often. - Another way to help? go to ddm- look for tonys screwkit- hpi baja.-- these are grade 12.9 black oxide-- your wrenches will round off before these screws strip. I talked to tony on phone, suggested making screw kits for redcats-- www.tonysscrews.com.

The screws im trying to get out are metal on metal (blue loctite). So when i first got the truck damn near lost half my screws because I assumed they had good QC before shipping these things out but to my surpirse. then everyone suggested loctite everyhting. I did now im stripping screws one after the other LOL (smh). Ill try the VibraTite man. Appreciate the info.

Theres gotta be a happy medium to not losing your screws but not having to weld them in either.

You mentioned using remington oil... you mean before installing the screws correct? because i cant get to the threads right now. Does that help secure it in the plastic?

Does the tonysscrewkit for baja all fit for the Rampage???

Thx
 
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pfrederi1

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Just got mine out same issue motor screw and a extractor broke inside, i did was soak with pb blaster overnight, then with a centerpunch make a angled hole on the outer side of the head carefully, then wih a small chisel hammer it counter clockwise and it will break loose (forgot to mention i also applied a soldering gun tip to the screw until it got pretty hot, that helps too.....let me know if this worked it did for me

Thx for the tip bro. Ill keep that in mind once i get some items and start on it again.
 
sunoco

sunoco

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also. i replace ALL the drive line grub screws with longer ones. they extend out of the drive line cups approx 1/8th inch as long as they do not hit anything-its o.k. and, i carefully grind off the concave ends of the grub screws totally flat.-- lok-tites a pain in the ass. it best used on big bolts-nuts- vibra-ties the thing to use-- except for high heat areas-- just saying---

the screw on redcats are very high quality actually. its the lok-tite. its just too strong.- i did tell tony that redcats are very popular-- lots of them out in use-- at this time, he does not have kits for cats-redcats-- fingers crossed--- hope-hope--

yea.the grub screws-- go to local hardware- home depot-lowes blows, find a smaller store-- here- i go to ace hardware-- manards in the midwest- uncertan about the eastern part or america-- just gotta hunt around

one more suggestion-- find junk home vcr-s, strip these puppies down for the nuts-bolts- springs- sleeves-- shafts-- its all metric you see? there is a wealth of parts - screws that fot servo arms for example- replace those goofy too small grub screws that adjust the brake & throttle links with small phillipsheaded screws-- ect-ect. even the screws that hold the outer cases of old c-b radios are decent ant metric screws also-- "The free asile " lol--

me-agan. hobby shops are few here-- to remove the #$%@m loktite it takes a good quality metric tap set.-- go to gizmomotors - look for his dubro brand metric taps-- you only need 3 or 4 sizes for these redcats-- these are not spendy.- saves getting pi%$ed every time you try to work on parts--- buy high quality taps- about 90% taps-- dubro is plenty good enough-- you are not actually making new threads-- just cleaning all the lok-tite out afterall---
 
sunoco

sunoco

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you know-- my avatar - cousin its hair is too long- and the glasses & hat are sorta dated.-- I do have a photo of uncle fester somewhere- the one where he screws the 100 watt light bulb into his mouth  alt= and it lights up---
 
sunoco

sunoco

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i had to pull apart a metal diff yesterday- the big bearings outside the diff housing were seated with lok-tite. ended up removing the bearing seal, flushing bearings out with electronic cleaner- no fire this way, took the tiny map gas torch to the inner bearing race, held the diff housing with wet shop rag- got the race hot enough to soften up lok-tite- used small flat blade screwdriver to slide bearings off diff case-- bearings are wasted, but everything else is unharmed.
 
Petrolheadz100

Petrolheadz100

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Curious how did loctite get on the bearings? Your speaking of the big bearings where the center drivecups are at in the diffs?
 
sunoco

sunoco

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it was a baja ss diff. thats what the manual says to do.-- seen people use red loktite- blue.-- on reassembly i used loktite sleeve retainer. bout the same as the other stuff.-- i bought this car as a unused assembled roller- 600 bucks- suggested to the guy in huston,tx to remove the 2 bolt stock engine- resell it lighten the car up lots for him to save on shipping cost-- 4wd cars drive like they are on rails- no good for jumping though-- 2wd are much harder to drive- but they can jump good in sand dunes- my driving skills are not so good- i will put in a stock zen 290 to try to learn the 2wd with on flat gentle grass fields-- baby steps you know---

strongest midrange motor i ever used in the light weight xb that still has really high rpm-s also? cy-f270 years ago large scale rc was selling top end pulloffs unused for 25 bucks.-- bought a bunch of these.-- f-270- 27.5 cc actually has a 30mm rod.- long rod motor. non stuffer crank.- on the bottom end - i use nachi c-6001 deep groove main bearings.- zen crank seals- .005"- 0.15mm copper base gasket-- carefully matched to cases-head.- coated with copper kote- brushed on. come out to .20" squish.- ada long manafold-wt990, lightend flywheel- modded jetpro rear mount- 8k clutch spring- this engine is actually sorta frightful when i light it off- i wear ear plugs. the fuel used is-- sunoco 110 regular mixed 50-50 with non ethanol 93 octane pump gas-- redline race cart oil @ 25-1. yea i know there are bigger faster engines- been there built that- but there something about this little engine with these cheap simple mods-- it snarls, my dyno is my eyes &ears & throttle finger!! kick butt little engines for us poor people.----------
 
Phill

Phill

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Curious how did loctite get on the bearings? Your speaking of the big bearings where the center drivecups are at in the diffs?
I spun a bearing in the plate so now I Loctite em all with red.
Just make sure you put the shafts in while it's setting so you get proper alignment.
 

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