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Rampage MT Cuts Out After Few Seconds (HELP AGAIN!!!!)

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Here we go again...
Went out to run my MT started no problem. Let it warm up for about 5min. Drove off and on the way back it just died (play broken record here).


- Pulled it back to my car starts right up but cuts right out after that. Fuel feed problem?? Maybe.

- Checked the fuel lines pulled the grommet. Pumped the bulb gas flows thru fuel line fine. Dipped the filter end in the gas and pumped the bulb again fuel picks up and flows thru fine.

- Tank is vented. Also tried richening LSN no luck

don't know man. need some help. Any help is much appreciated!!!
It obviously has spark it starts and runs for a few seconds and dies. sounding like a gas feed problem but i don't know because i checked the fuel lines. Carb is an 1107. OBR engine. Yes I have a kill switch but i disabled that as well just to isolate it.
 

sunoco

Well-Known Member
Messages
169
run it agan- best to hook the kill switch first. drive agan- when the engine dies-- remove the spark plug-- if its dry- you have a fuel feed issue-- if its wet- you have an ignition issue.-- these spark plugs are a resistor type-- the resistoris inside the white area between the hex head- and top of the spark plug.-- the resistor can go bad. replace the spark plug with a new ngk brand-- some of these plugs arecalled torch - never used them-- china made- but so are champions now also-- look closely at the press on connections - where the wire ends feed the ignition coil also-- could be dirty- loose.--- same with all the wiring- look for loose dirty connections-- this includes the on-off switch for the cars battery-- if the switch does not have a rubber cover-- best get one thar does--- its a high wear item--
 

sunoco

Well-Known Member
Messages
169
the button on the engine that shuts off the car-- thats a really high wear part also- they fail often.-- they do sell new ones with a rubber cover at daves discount motors--- 5 bucks- something like that--
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
THANK YOU SUNOCO!!!!!

Surprisingly it seems it was the spark plug. I never suspected that because it would start everytime and run for a few seconds and just when i think it was ok it would shutoff. I never suspected the spark plug smh. It was a fairly new NGK spark plug to.

I spoke with Dan at OBR really helpful guy man. He broke down and explained to me that sometimes kill switches can render spark plugs useless or defective. i still don't fully understand how. but he also recommended changing out the spark plug after we tried everything else. Swapped it out with a used sparlk plug i had because i didnt have a new one handy but this one was fairly new and voila she sparked right up and stayed running. I dnt understand it but shes running in BEAST MODE!!!!
 

sunoco

Well-Known Member
Messages
169
happy to be able to input. obr is good- i did not know it until recently-- they use the same main bearings i do on engines-- nachi c -6001 deep groove. the good stuff. all rc engines have high outputs rough on parts.- ngk is as good as it gets- i would stay away from champion-- seen too many that were out of aglinment-- you will see a round plastic device on the kill switches wire-- its called a ferrite, no its not a magnnet, it- how to say---- its a one way valve for ignition interference-- ddm sells these-- i buy mine from mouser electronics. i usually use 2 of these in line with each other-- sometimes the spark plug cap can cause fail safe shutdown also-- ddm sells a replacement cap thats shielded-- its a metal cap-- not spendy either--
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
So Ive been running ok for the most part, Changing out spark plugs. But i cant keep swappimng spark plugs each time. I need to get to the bottom of this problem. Is killswitch really ruining plugs??? and how???

If thats the case need a fix because im not going to run this behemoth w/o a killswitch... not if i can help it. Anyone else out there had this issue and how did you fix it? i seem to changing spark plugs every couple days.
 

sunoco

Well-Known Member
Messages
169
i had the same issue.-- same killswitch.--- its not the fault of the killswitch.-- its doing its job correctly.-- the kill switch is picking up a fault- sencing it-- and shutting off the power to the spark plug--- AND- OR-- the steering servo also.--- most of your spark plugs are useable- just fouled and need a cleaning-- wire brush- carb cleaner. In my case-- it was loose wiring in the engines coil area- AND a bad engine on off switch- AND-- i had to re bind the recever to the transmitter-- When the radio lost a good solid signal-- from a distance-- it shut the car off-- walked across the field to the car-- it reaquired -got a good signal-- if any of this makes any logic to -- i hope it does-- its a trial and error to nail down whats going on---

the fly sky radios operate this way-- they are constantly - by good design self checking themselfs-- making certan to have solid signals- Trouble is--- there are so many wireless devices- phones- automated homes- smart devices- they are everywhere-- wireless computer modems- cell phone towers everywhere-- ALL these things contribute to electrical noise.-- interference. heck, i love it when all the electricty go off here where i live-- my c-b- ham- shortwave radios - am radios are dead quiet- zero interferance-- i strongly suspect remote controlled toys like a dead quiet interference area also--- just a uneducated guess-----
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Hey appreciate the info again there sunoco.

Its just a pain the ass when the symptoms are not consistent. Hard to diagnose and lock it down. When i think i have it diagnosed something different happens and throws me for a loop LOL. Ill get it eventually. Almost there i can feel it. At least Im pass most of the problems.
 

sunoco

Well-Known Member
Messages
169
the next time you are running it-- the second it shuts down- if you can see it-- turn the steering and try to see if the tires move--- if they do not--- its not the carb or engine-- that will put you a little bit closer to resolving. and do a radio check- with the r-c not running and the radio running-- get someone to look at the r-c with the body off the r-c- you walk down the street with the transmitter-- use hand signals to each other-- check steering- throttle-- kill switch light--- a distance check---- if you are alone-- use field glasses to see for yourself---
 

sunoco

Well-Known Member
Messages
169
yea i am a talker-- years ago- in the 80-s, surface radios were am radios-- my am radios frequency was - 27.200 mhz-- megaherz. i kept having the radio go nuts in use-- well-- am c-b radios are 27 mhz also-- channel 19 -the truckers channel- is 27.185 mhz.-- the c-b radio test channel is- 27.205 mhz- channel 20.-- see what i am saying? all radios splatter- they trow off r-f above and below the assigned frequencies-- and the legal power limit is 4 watts-- lots of folks run power- hundreds even thousands of watts-- heck, i used to run a kilowatt-- on c-b radios- lol- i could go much deeper into this topic but- anyways high powered c-b radios were causing interference with my 10th scale nitro r-c from hundreds of miles away !!! yea c-b is a free for all-- channel 6 - 27.025 is nick named the super bowl-- why? its a bunch of black guys mostly that are running 10 thousand watts-- andeven more----- gezzzz.-- kinda fun to listen to them though--
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
the next time you are running it-- the second it shuts down- if you can see it-- turn the steering and try to see if the tires move--- if they do not--- its not the carb or engine-- that will put you a little bit closer to resolving. and do a radio check- with the r-c not running and the radio running-- get someone to look at the r-c with the body off the r-c- you walk down the street with the transmitter-- use hand signals to each other-- check steering- throttle-- kill switch light--- a distance check---- if you are alone-- use field glasses to see for yourself---

Will do Thanks. Appreciate it
 

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