Rampage MT Brakes

G-Man

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Thread starter #1
What's up guys? Been fooling around with my MT trying to get decent brakes from it. I have adjusted the grubscrews to tighten up the discs and it helped some, but still not what it should be. So I cut myself a piece of fuel tubing the size of the stock spring on the brake linkage to take the springs place. Wow is all I can say now! It will flip over if I hit the brakes too hard at high speed. I'm sure it's been done before, but I see no information on it so I figured I'd share. Happy bashing guys!!! 20180415_203517.jpg
 

edl

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#2
Great Idea!, my brakes are ok but, could be be better I am gonna give this a try-thanks
 

G-Man

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Great Idea!, my brakes are ok but, could be be better I am gonna give this a try-thanks
No problem Sir!! I had to back the brake endpoint off quite a bit also. It doesn't need to push as far now with the fuel hose in there. Why I didn't think of this a few years ago is beyond me lol.
 

macandnews

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#4
On my MT, I replaced the spring with a stronger one and now I have very powerful brakes!
If I brake too hard, my MT turns around, the rear gets up to go ahead !!

Sorry if my English is bad, I use Google translation.
 

Phill

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#5
No problem Sir!! I had to back the brake endpoint off quite a bit also. It doesn't need to push as far now with the fuel hose in there. Why I didn't think of this a few years ago is beyond me lol.
+1
Been using it on my DR for years now.
Sure beats the spring.
 
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#6
Did this a few weeks back! Set the end points I stripped out the plastic servo horn and had to replace with aluminum. (Not redcat, that one is junk and ont completely aluminum)
 

sunoco

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#8
What's up guys? Been fooling around with my MT trying to get decent brakes from it. I have adjusted the grubscrews to tighten up the discs and it helped some, but still not what it should be. So I cut myself a piece of fuel tubing the size of the stock spring on the brake linkage to take the springs place. Wow is all I can say now! It will flip over if I hit the brakes too hard at high speed. I'm sure it's been done before, but I see no information on it so I figured I'd share. Happy bashing guys!!! View attachment 14051
I did the same thing. Its on a much lighter r-c, the xb car. - the xb-s best brake tune for my usage ended up being silicone tubing- really flexable. I used a new razor knife to cut 2 slits 180 degrees apart in the tube- ending about 5mm from the open ends of the tube. I also use2 tubes - about 4 mm long on the throttle - no slits cut.
 

Dusty

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#9
I’ve adjusted my breaks and they still just don’t work right . It’s like they are skipping instead of engaging fully to stop . This is just with a push by hand so I know under power won’t be anything but worse . Has anyone else had this issue . Is there something on the break assembly that needs adjusting other than the grub and spring on the linkage . I’ll have to try the fuel line and see if it gives the brakes enough pressure to engage full ...
 

sunoco

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#11
I’ve adjusted my breaks and they still just don’t work right . It’s like they are skipping instead of engaging fully to stop . This is just with a push by hand so I know under power won’t be anything but worse . Has anyone else had this issue . Is there something on the break assembly that needs adjusting other than the grub and spring on the linkage . I’ll have to try the fuel line and see if it gives the brakes enough pressure to engage full ...
My breaks were doing the same thing- The break discs were tilting some, causing the pulsing- on & off troubles. I bought a new break set- still did the same thing-- so-- I used one of the stock metal break pads as a template- built another metal break pad about 1/2 as thick as the factory pad-- added this home made pad on the grub screw side- there are 2 grub screws- backed these 2 screws flush with the plastic support-- this solved the issue. This sort of thing-- may or may not resolve your pulsing issues-- oh- i still used all the factory metal pads- Plus added the home brew one also-- In your case-- the extra metal pad may need to go on the opposite side- the side that the 1/2 round break cam is-- i give this a 75% chance of resolving your pulsing- binding issue- D.B.
 

G-Man

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Thread starter #13
Did this a few weeks back! Set the end points I stripped out the plastic servo horn and had to replace with aluminum. (Not redcat, that one is junk and ont completely aluminum)
Right. I replaced all the electronics in both my MT and DR. Best thing I could have done. I use a double sided aluminum servo horn also. Servos are one Spektrum S9020 for steering and a Savox 1210 throttle servo with a 2700mah 2s lipo rx battery in the MT. The Dunerunner I use a Hitec D845wp and a Savox 0230 throttle servo same 2s lipo rx battery and a Futaba 4PLS radio system. Going to try fitting the Savox 1210 in there for throttle, it may not fit, the Hitec D845 is a big boy and the Savox 1210 is tall. Going to try it since the 1210 is a much stronger servo
 

G-Man

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Thread starter #14
I’ve adjusted my breaks and they still just don’t work right . It’s like they are skipping instead of engaging fully to stop . This is just with a push by hand so I know under power won’t be anything but worse . Has anyone else had this issue . Is there something on the break assembly that needs adjusting other than the grub and spring on the linkage . I’ll have to try the fuel line and see if it gives the brakes enough pressure to engage full ...
Watch this video on how to adjust the brake grubscrews. Then adjust the linkage using a small piece of soft fuel hose in place of the spring, or get a stronger spring like said above^^^ (which I may try actually sounds like a better idea) then set the brake endpoint so it applies the brakes yet doesn't buzz real bad when applying the brakes. Mine stops on a dime now which it never has before.
 

G-Man

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Thread starter #15
On my MT, I replaced the spring with a stronger one and now I have very powerful brakes!
If I brake too hard, my MT turns around, the rear gets up to go ahead !!

Sorry if my English is bad, I use Google translation.
Awesome idea using a stronger spring!! Your translation came through just fine for us to understand! Thanks For The Input!!!
 

Dusty

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#17
Thanks gorley .... I had searched for a YouTube vid and nothing came up for me . Maybe I just worded it weird I don't KNOW LOL ! I did find one that had showed me the grub screw and what to do and when I went to try I was like WTF ... I need to cut this Allen down to get in there . I’ll have to subscribe to your tube channel man .
 

G-Man

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Thanks gorley .... I had searched for a YouTube vid and nothing came up for me . Maybe I just worded it weird I don't KNOW LOL ! I did find one that had showed me the grub screw and what to do and when I went to try I was like WTF ... I need to cut this Allen down to get in there . I’ll have to subscribe to your tube channel man .
That is exactly what I did, cut down an allen wrench a few mm to fit it. The best bet is to take the throttle brake servo mount loose from the four screws on the bottom then flip it up out of your way. My hands are too damn big to fit in there lol, I struggle adjusting those two grubscrews. Now you don't want them too tight either, You want some slop in the brakes. The fuel hose or a heavier spring really does the job though. Stops great now. Good Luck and yes sub my channel I do alot of repair work etc.. Thanks G-man!!
 

Dusty

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#19
That is exactly what I did, cut down an allen wrench a few mm to fit it. The best bet is to take the throttle brake servo mount loose from the four screws on the bottom then flip it up out of your way. My hands are too damn big to fit in there lol, I struggle adjusting those two grubscrews. Now you don't want them too tight either, You want some slop in the brakes. The fuel hose or a heavier spring really does the job though. Stops great now. Good Luck and yes sub my channel I do alot of repair work etc.. Thanks G-man!!

I’m broke down right now ... bad coil . Im Dustin from the FB rampage owners group. Redcat replacement coil should be here tomorrow. But I have an 1107 carb and zenoah coil in my wish list from ddm . Really contemplating just pushing that order through sense Redcat’s original parts are so touchy . Really looking to make this thing more reliable and keeping the factory parts for break down back ups . What’s your thoughts on engine parts that should be upgraded
 

G-Man

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I’m broke down right now ... bad coil . Im Dustin from the FB rampage owners group. Redcat replacement coil should be here tomorrow. But I have an 1107 carb and zenoah coil in my wish list from ddm . Really contemplating just pushing that order through sense Redcat’s original parts are so touchy . Really looking to make this thing more reliable and keeping the factory parts for break down back ups . What’s your thoughts on engine parts that should be upgraded
A 990 carb should do you justice, just no choke if you like the choke. As far as coil, I really have had no issues with either stock coils when I used them, maybe just a bad run of coils here recently. I since changed the stock engine to a Zenoah g320 in both the MT and DR. I would run your stock engine till it won't anymore or untill you are totally bored with it. I chose the stock Zenoah g320 as a replacement engine with the thoughts of being able to build the engine if I so choose, which ddm had a deal of the day last week. They had the ESP race ported head and piston kit on sale for $89. So I bought two. Got the chance to put the DR kit on with great results. I am going to do the MT throughout this week and break in this weekend. So ya man the stock engine really doesn't need much, a good carb and pipe it's not too bad. I think electronics and diffs need help before anything else
 

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