Port timing tool

[Sprint 77]

Here are some pics of my new holder for the dial indicator to set piston squish , check port timing, and correct port timing from extra cyl shims.

 

[NEWCARNAGE]

Ok ive gotta know what your doing because im all into this fine tuning and technology besides mines not runing very well i was just wondering if this has anything to do with drivability

 

[Sprint 77]

You would usually have this tool in with motor out of car. The dial indicator and a degree wheel go hand and hand to get your port timing perfect to your desired RPM and pipe choice. It also in crutial in setting up stroker motors with the desired compresion ratio to match your fuel. You can get the right shim or gasket thickness to get optimum performance.

 

[DemonRC]

That is something I would love to have. Can that be bought or is that something you fabbed up?

 

[Sprint 77]

That is something I would love to have. Can that be bought or is that something you fabbed up?

I machined the adapter to hold the dial indicator that screws in the head. At this time it is not something going to market. I built it for porting motors to test with my pipes. I have seen some guys drill out a old spark plug on a lathe and hold the dial indicator with a rubber hose and two hose clamps. It works just not as clean as my setup. Maybe after I get my manual mill set up for CNC I will make some for sale, that project is far down my list right now though.

 

[Piranha2]

The cage and braces are "higher" up?

 

[Sprint 77]

The cage and braces are "higher" up?

Yes they are this way you don't have to pull the roof or cage just to change the plug.

 

[RampageHopUps]

He didn't get it.

 

[Obeast44]

Yes they are this way you don't have to pull the roof or cage just to change the plug.

Heres something I carried over from my Baja 5b days, Quick release roll cage tubes.. I havent noticed if anyone else has done this yet. I used some leftover 1/2 O.D. Aluminum Tubing


I bought from Lowes. I cut it about 2 1/1inches in length, cut the cage support(the ones that screw into the bottom of the chassis), and glued the cutoff pieces into one end of the tubes. I let it dry then screwed the tubing and lower pieces back onto the chassis where they now remain. I can pull the entire cage off by just taking the 4 body pins out. Its very simple and was one of the very first things I did to it Heres pics from my old digital camera with a broke zoom so they are a little blurry:








And heres with the cage removed: