deathrowtoll
Junior Member
- Messages
- 22
Guys,
Now that there is a real On-Road (Rally) car available from Rampage/Redcat, I would like to share some experiences I had when I converted my TT5 Buggy to On-Road. First of all the buggy outperformed everything when converted to On-Road, it performed so well that I was truly surprised when I started outperforming several of the MCD's I was racing against last year.
I am assuming that with the exception of shorter A-arms and different gear ratios the chassis did not change much from the Buggy to the Rally car. With that in mind I have blended my setup with the buggy and created a setup that might be a good start for the On-Road car.
Tires:
I do not know what tires come with the Rally car, but if for any reason they are not up to par, I want to make the following suggestion as I know the tires I used last year do work very well.
PMT tires/rims for 1/5 scale touring cars (FG, HARM, Technokit, Contrast, etc)
(mounted 1/5 tires and rims cost about 65 to 75 dollars/pair)
- 27 shore in front, 20 shore in back for up to 100 degrees F on the tarmac
- 35 shore in front, 27 shore in back for over 125 degrees F on the tarmac
I have run the first tire combination for over 25 tanks of gas for a combined time of 20 hrs, and 10 minutes (I keep a log) without changing my 27/20 tire combo in my buggy. This combination has outlasted all of my expectations. These tires are very hard and completely flat and they do not balloon out at all. They start sort of slippery for the first minute or so, but after they get warm, they are the stickiest tires I have ever run, they make me look as if I am a good driver, which I am sorry to say I am not.
Gearing:
If the gearing for the Buggy was left intact (I hope they did as it gave many gearing options)
- Start with 29/31 and 25/25 if stock motor and an average driver
- Start with 31/29 and 25/25 if stock motor and a smooth or experienced driver
- Start with 27/33 and 25/25 if using a motor bigger than a 26 and your motor is strong at high RPM.
Diff and other setup:
- Change the diff oils to 30,000/6,000 front/back (depending on your driving style you will have to change this, as I like my car to understeer a little)
- Change the shock oils to 125/85 front/back
- Move the shock collars up, so the suspension sags a little
- Use about 2 degrees of toe-out in front (to keep it tracking straight)
- If available, use 2-3 degrees of toe-in in the back (adjust this to get the proper amount of forward bite)
- Start with 0 degrees of camber up front and 2 negative on back to see where your tire contact patch is, then change it as needed to avoid premature tire wear.
- Upgrade to the 8000 RPM Red Spring rate on your clutch or use an Adjustable clutch if you can afford it.
As far as where you can get the 1/5 touring tires? You have several choices, but I like getting them from the Pro 5th scale site, they do not have as good customer support as Rob at RampageHopUps, but they seem to have the tires at a reasonable price (I imagine with the dollar being down this will change soon).
You also have three good tire choices as PMT makes several kinds of tires for the 1/5 scale touring cars.
My recommendation depends on what you want to do:
All out racing: Eclipse http://www.pro5thscale.com/inc/sdetail/244
Semi-Pro : Kronos http://www.pro5thscale.com/inc/sdetail/243
New technology, cheaper, lighter and I hear better than the kronos : Icaro http://www.pro5thscale.com/inc/sdetail/245
One note: the track where I practice has a smooth to semi smooth surface and it barely got to 125 degrees during the summer; that is how I got away with the 27/20 shore combo. Depending on your asphalt surface and temperature you might have to choose another shore.
Thanks,
DRT.
Now that there is a real On-Road (Rally) car available from Rampage/Redcat, I would like to share some experiences I had when I converted my TT5 Buggy to On-Road. First of all the buggy outperformed everything when converted to On-Road, it performed so well that I was truly surprised when I started outperforming several of the MCD's I was racing against last year.
I am assuming that with the exception of shorter A-arms and different gear ratios the chassis did not change much from the Buggy to the Rally car. With that in mind I have blended my setup with the buggy and created a setup that might be a good start for the On-Road car.
Tires:
I do not know what tires come with the Rally car, but if for any reason they are not up to par, I want to make the following suggestion as I know the tires I used last year do work very well.
PMT tires/rims for 1/5 scale touring cars (FG, HARM, Technokit, Contrast, etc)
(mounted 1/5 tires and rims cost about 65 to 75 dollars/pair)
- 27 shore in front, 20 shore in back for up to 100 degrees F on the tarmac
- 35 shore in front, 27 shore in back for over 125 degrees F on the tarmac
I have run the first tire combination for over 25 tanks of gas for a combined time of 20 hrs, and 10 minutes (I keep a log) without changing my 27/20 tire combo in my buggy. This combination has outlasted all of my expectations. These tires are very hard and completely flat and they do not balloon out at all. They start sort of slippery for the first minute or so, but after they get warm, they are the stickiest tires I have ever run, they make me look as if I am a good driver, which I am sorry to say I am not.
Gearing:
If the gearing for the Buggy was left intact (I hope they did as it gave many gearing options)
- Start with 29/31 and 25/25 if stock motor and an average driver
- Start with 31/29 and 25/25 if stock motor and a smooth or experienced driver
- Start with 27/33 and 25/25 if using a motor bigger than a 26 and your motor is strong at high RPM.
Diff and other setup:
- Change the diff oils to 30,000/6,000 front/back (depending on your driving style you will have to change this, as I like my car to understeer a little)
- Change the shock oils to 125/85 front/back
- Move the shock collars up, so the suspension sags a little
- Use about 2 degrees of toe-out in front (to keep it tracking straight)
- If available, use 2-3 degrees of toe-in in the back (adjust this to get the proper amount of forward bite)
- Start with 0 degrees of camber up front and 2 negative on back to see where your tire contact patch is, then change it as needed to avoid premature tire wear.
- Upgrade to the 8000 RPM Red Spring rate on your clutch or use an Adjustable clutch if you can afford it.
As far as where you can get the 1/5 touring tires? You have several choices, but I like getting them from the Pro 5th scale site, they do not have as good customer support as Rob at RampageHopUps, but they seem to have the tires at a reasonable price (I imagine with the dollar being down this will change soon).
You also have three good tire choices as PMT makes several kinds of tires for the 1/5 scale touring cars.
My recommendation depends on what you want to do:
All out racing: Eclipse http://www.pro5thscale.com/inc/sdetail/244
Semi-Pro : Kronos http://www.pro5thscale.com/inc/sdetail/243
New technology, cheaper, lighter and I hear better than the kronos : Icaro http://www.pro5thscale.com/inc/sdetail/245
One note: the track where I practice has a smooth to semi smooth surface and it barely got to 125 degrees during the summer; that is how I got away with the 27/20 shore combo. Depending on your asphalt surface and temperature you might have to choose another shore.
Thanks,
DRT.
