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New MT

rons

New Member
Messages
1
What are the lets say 5 top fixes/upgrades that you would recommend for a new MT I know it will get some hard usage I have 2 acres with some steep hills.
Also I understand to toss the spark plug and go for a NGK but what number?
I will probably get kicked on this one but I am planning on ordering the pipe from the MT pro @$40 even if I change it later.

This is what I am thinking:
Gas tank vent kit?
Spark plug?
2 Cyc oil Castor 927?
Air filter?
Kill Bee?
Pipe?

Thanks
 

Redredcat0223

Well-Known Member
Messages
149
Location
Glendale,Arizona
Screw that pipe put the money owardsca good one,that one is junk,if you go on ddm racing he has his pipes which I have and love,but you can get a blemished pipe for about $100 and then you have a top of the line pipe
 

gdl357

Active Member
Messages
29
Location
Montreal, Quebec Canada
I just ordered one . What I plan on doing is:
- install my Dynamite kill switch. Works like a charm with my 3CH Futaba 3PL PN: DYNE1240
- install my DDM pipe of which I already own. expensive mod.
- replace the center diff support with aluminum ones. PN: 050003
- purchase an air filter cover
- purchase a pull start cover
- breather valve on the cap
- aluminum front brace PN: 050008b
- replace the 2500mah with a Dynamite 5100mah PN: DYN1442 or DYNB2442
- cover the whole inside of the body with drywall tape and Shoe Goo or Goop. do not put any around the post mount holes or you won't be able to put your pin as the body will be too thick.
search on youtube: Reinforcing RC car bodies with Shoe Goo/Amazing Goop and Rubber Seal
- reinforce the outer surface of the gear box cover. Just have to find out what hard coating to put on there...

all for now lol.
 
Last edited:

Redredcat0223

Well-Known Member
Messages
149
Location
Glendale,Arizona
I know another guy on here he has a you tube channel called steel city rc and he has an mt all modded up and he has a bunch of videos going over how and what to do on that truck,he’s an awesome and very knowledgeable guy,he is running a belt drive like i am which I love so far instead of gears but he coated the cover of the belt drive and the cover of the original gears with rhino liner and he’s never had an issue,I never had an issue with my gear cover at all but when you buy the belt drive ,it’s built awesome except the cover that comes with it is flimsy and mine broke already but I talked to a couple guys and they say they run their belt drive without a cover ,so I might try that,but it sounds like you have your bases covered ,only other thing I would highly suggest is getting the aluminum front and rear diff covers,I have 7075rc ones which are the best but he retired but the redcat ones for your truck are really good because after you start running hard a lot of times the plastic heats up too much in those diffs and causes failure,I would have bought redcat aluminum diffs for my truck but for some reason they never made them for the XT,I hope any of this helps and have fun bashing because these trucks get a bad rap but after you fix or upgrade a few things they run awesome,good luck bro!
 

gdl357

Active Member
Messages
29
Location
Montreal, Quebec Canada
Yeah thx for the tip. I have PM'd that youtube person...what a good guy he seems to be. I subscribed to his channel. He too recommends getting the alu diff cases but ...man... $125.00 CND each... i rather rebuild the diffs.

PN: 050060 x 2 = $230 + shipping and TX
 

Rickyracer23

Member
Messages
24
Location
Los Gatos, CA
I use NGK heat range 7. The colder the better as long as it's just hot enough to burn off the carbon so it doesn't foul out. You don't want too hot of plug or the ground strap can get red hot causing pre-ignition which can lead to detonation and the end of your motor completely. Also depends on how you drive it. If you just putt it around all the time, then you need a hotter plug. If your running the piss out of it like I do, then colder plug.
 

G-Man

Junior Member
Messages
958
Location
Pittsburgh,PA
You guys nailed it. The shoo goo and fiberglass drywall tape woks wonders. You can use around the body post holes BTW. I use a big flat washer on the outside and pin through the top hole. The diffs. Ya it is up to you how much down time you want fixing it. I broke four sets of straight cut crown and pinions before finally spending the cash on the aluminum housings and helical gears. Rubber sealed bearings through out also. Shimmed up good they handle more power and very very reliable. The diffs get opened up due to time of usage now not to repair gears. Glad I can be of help and really appreciate the kind words guys!!??
 

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