I have pics, and 2 questions, Please chime in!

[newls1]

I just took delivery of my rampage XT and I tightened all screws, installed tires, air filter has oil on it from factory, and am just now waiting for the battery pack to fully charge. In the mean time I took a few pictures of 2 pieces that i have questions about... First pic, I don't know what this is for or what it does, help please!

WHAT ARE THESE FOR IN THIS BAG?

Second pic is a metal mesh disc type thing that sits on the base of the air filter inside the air filter housing, can I remove this for slightly more air flow or is it needed for something like "Air straightening" etc?......

METAL MESH THING

 

[designed2survive]

I just took delivery of my rampage XT and I tightened all screws, installed tires, air filter has oil on it from factory, and am just now waiting for the battery pack to fully charge. In the mean time I took a few pictures of 2 pieces that i have questions about... First pic, I don't know what this is for or what it does, help please!

WHAT ARE THESE FOR IN THIS BAG?

Second pic is a metal mesh disc type thing that sits on the base of the air filter inside the air filter housing, can I remove this for slightly more air flow or is it needed for something like "Air straightening" etc?......

METAL MESH THING

First pic: antenna tube and binding plug (use to bind (marry) your radio to your receiver if it's not already))

Second pic: don't think you'll get much more air flow if any by removing it.

 

[newls1]

greatly appreciate your replies. I don't understand what this "binding" plug does, but im not using it and radio/receiver work fine, so I guess I don't need it....

I do have 1 more serious issue that is driving me crazy! then I promise I'll stop bothering ya! Im doing the break in procedure and currently on the 2nd tank of fuel and keeping it no more then 1/2 throttle. My issue is this, as SOON AS I TAP THE BRAKES, the truck dies!! FLAT OUT DIES. Happens as soon as I move the trigger position to apply brakes, so something has to be wrong somewhere... Very annoying issue. Also the idle screw doesn't look like it is connected to anything as I was looking at that as my issue, and it might be... I can turn it all the way in either direction and nothing changes... I took a few pics of it, hopefully you might be able to see whats wrong.

 

[designed2survive]

greatly appreciate your replies. I don't understand what this "binding" plug does, but im not using it and radio/receiver work fine, so I guess I don't need it....

I do have 1 more serious issue that is driving me crazy! then I promise I'll stop bothering ya! Im doing the break in procedure and currently on the 2nd tank of fuel and keeping it no more then 1/2 throttle. My issue is this, as SOON AS I TAP THE BRAKES, the truck dies!! FLAT OUT DIES. Happens as soon as I move the trigger position to apply brakes, so something has to be wrong somewhere... Very annoying issue. Also the idle screw doesn't look like it is connected to anything as I was looking at that as my issue, and it might be... I can turn it all the way in either direction and nothing changes... I took a few pics of it, hopefully you might be able to see whats wrong.

I assume you have not touched your low or high speed needles (LSN right , HSN left) and they were set properly from factory. That's the setting you always start at when tuning.

That factory setting is rich (good for break in period). You should see a lot of smoke coming out of the pipe.

The low speed needle when set to rich affects the idle screw impact. That's why you barely notice anything happening when you fully turn in the idle screw clockwise. Once you are done with break in and start tuning, you will set the low speed needle to the desired spot (turning clockwise) for responsive take off. At this stage you'll realized that the idle screw has more impact.

LSN being too rich is not allowing the idle screw to be effective. To fix it:

1- Turn the LSN clockwise 1/8th of a turn then adjust the idle screw.
2- If the idle screw is responding you good to go and can adjust idle with it.
3- If not turn the LSN another 1/8th of a turn clockwise and repeat the above.

If you find yourself going more than 1/3rd of a turn in total. Stop and report back.

Make sure you have spare spark plugs as break in will foul the one you have.

 

[newls1]

LOL... I did have to buy another plug already! you are good!!! What is the factory set point for the idle screw? I have messed with it so much, i have no clue where it is supposed to be set at. And yes, i did NOT touch the LSN or HSN yet.... You are an awesome dude, thanks a million for all your help so far

 

[designed2survive]

LOL... I did have to buy another plug already! you are good!!! What is the factory set point for the idle screw? I have messed with it so much, i have no clue where it is supposed to be set at. And yes, i did NOT touch the LSN or HSN yet.... You are an awesome dude, thanks a million for all your help so far

There is no factory setting for the idle screw.

If you have up to 30cc engine the factory setting for:

1- LSN is 1 and 1/4 turns out from fully close. 1 full 360 degrees turn plus a 1/4 of that.

2- HSN is 1 and a half turns out from fully close.

When you fully close the needles, do not tighten them, just let them come to stop and turn counterclockwise from there.

Those numbers are handy for when you need to reset to factory setting and tune from there (probably after breaking).

Did you get a kill switch?

 

[newls1]

ok update...... I texted a fellow friend of mine who has experience with these redcat 1/5 scales and has seen this exact issue that im trying to explain in text form, but im probably not doing a good enough job at describing it, but in this txt he forwarded to me, explains my issue and how to fix it.... BUt I need your assistance in doing it so I wont screw it up!!! It is the 2nd post in this txt image ill upload here. Is there maybe a youtube vid on how to do this, or is it something i should be able to figure out?? The answer to my exact issue is the 2nd post in the txt reply image... heres the pic.....

 

[designed2survive]

Also the idle screw doesn't look like it is connected to anything as I was looking at that as my issue, and it might be... I can turn it all the way in either direction and nothing changes...

I quoted your statement about the idle screw above. The idle screw will take priority over the servo linkage impact anytime the carb is close.

How does it work?

1- Think about the idle screw as a door stop (something stopping the door from fully closing).

2- when your idle screw is fully turned in clockwise. You have already created the gap necessary to keep the engine running. In optimum carb settings, if fully closed, the engine will rev way high.

3- by shortening your linkage or taking away less brake travel, all you are doing is increasing the gap already created by the idle screw and disconnecting the idle screw from the throttle shaft plate, rendering the idle screw useless.

4- in that case you are putting a bandaid on a situation that tells you that the LSN of your carb is not properly setup.

Let's say you do it anyway. Now you are done with break in or you are starting to tune your carb.

1- with every single turn of the LSN to get it leaner (more responsive and not sluggish), you realize the idle is also going up.

2- you try to turn the idle screw counterclockwise, but the idle stays the same no matter what. Why? because the idle screw is and was not even in contact with the throttle shaft plate.

3- now you are back to undoing and resetting you throttle servo linkage.

At the end if you want to go that route you can.

 

[designed2survive]

I need to ask, did you get and installed a kill switch?

 

[newls1]

i don't have a kill switch.. if i turn my radio off when the truck is still on, the truck goes to a neutral throttle (idle) as i tested that. the engine itself has a red kill button on it as well.

BAck to the other question sir, AS soon as I apply my brake, the actual metal rod linkage starts to bend and it is pushing my throttle butterfly closed 100%... The linkage needs to be setup better, just has to be the issue as that txts states. I understand everything you said above though, and greatly appreciate the time you have spent helping me out. I want to "RE-SETUP" my linkage, but trying to figure out how to properly do it so I don't screw up a brand new truck

 

[designed2survive]

i don't have a kill switch.. if i turn my radio off when the truck is still on, the truck goes to a neutral throttle (idle) as i tested that. the engine itself has a red kill button on it as well.

Your radio system can fail and or your servo can stay stuck at full wide open, get a kill switch.

BAck to the other question sir, AS soon as I apply my brake, the actual metal rod linkage starts to bend and it is pushing my throttle butterfly closed 100%... The linkage needs to be setup better, just has to be the issue as that txts states. I understand everything you said above though, and greatly appreciate the time you have spent helping me out. I want to "RE-SETUP" my linkage, but trying to figure out how to properly do it so I don't screw up a brand new truck

In that case,

 

[newls1]

YOU ARE THE F**KING MAN!! THANK YOU

 

[newls1]

update: First i'd like to say THANK YOU for your help in this thread, you have helped me so much and it is very much appreciated!

After playing with the linkage, and setting the LSN 1/8 turn clockwise to lean it out a little, and slight adjustment for the idle screw, truck idles all day long now! im not going through plugs like every other pull, and mostly done with break in now. Really starting to enjoy the truck now and seem to be getting back in the hobby once again... Here goes all my money

 

[designed2survive]

update: First i'd like to say THANK YOU for your help in this thread, you have helped me so much and it is very much appreciated!

After playing with the linkage, and setting the LSN 1/8 turn clockwise to lean it out a little, and slight adjustment for the idle screw, truck idles all day long now! im not going through plugs like every other pull, and mostly done with break in now. Really starting to enjoy the truck now and seem to be getting back in the hobby once again... Here goes all my money

Glad it's working!

1- get an aluminum transmission plate. It will save your gears.
2- invest in a good set of throttle and steering servos. The stock ones are prone to fail.

Which brings me back again to "Please get a kill switch!" before you end up with a big repairs/lost and or hospital bills for you or someone else.

 

[newls1]

will do buddy! I posted in the other thread for a link to the recommended pipe and kill switch.. thanks