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ddm side mount

alfred e numan

Senior Member
Messages
1,325
This was one of those 30 dollar pipes ddm had on sale. It has been pressure tested underwater. No bubbles. Will it last? Only one way to know-- hammer it after the 2 rubber mounts are nickel silvered on.- It tensile streingth is eighty thousand psi. The bronze is 60-65 thousand. This uses the stock jet pro rear mount header, If it fails? Just bolt on the jet pro and no fiddle farting around with the header. There is the question about heat transfer on the copper 90 degree street elbow-- It may have to have a film of bronze flowed if it runs too hot- no idea really- just a thought. The engine is not a 270. its a CY 29- This may? be a better match for the 29. The 29 runs out of porting about the time the jet pro is starting to kick in. still ran pretty good though---
 
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Guest

Guest
Cool. Hope it performs well for you.

This is my $50 DDM Blem sale pipe.

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51452307.jpg
 

alfred e numan

Senior Member
Messages
1,325
How bout that! looking good. I bought a chrome v-1 also. It will hang on the pegboard until i can afford to spring for a Hobart 140 gas mig. Northern tool has these for 500. free shipping. As for my Harbor fright 90 flux mig-- I can run a nice bead on 16 gauge sheet steel. Its not the fault of the welder-- Its cause the flux wire burns so hot.- On thinner steel? No cigar. Tried 2 lb rolls of Lincolin- Hobart- Fernley- The Hobart burns a little cooler, but still--16 is as thin as i can go.- It will be great for outdoors -gates-fence-ect. If i drag instead of pushing the flux mig- my beads are a little wider with less penatration.- Its a 90 dollar flux mig to learn the ropes with.- gotta be careful with the always hot tip though!! - LOL?? not even!!! OH- thing is about anything that requires a heavy gaige extension cord-- The cost of copper is frightful.-- Time to start checking out yard sales in the tricites -- scout out a roll of heavy Romex -- leftovers from home remodels.
 

alfred e numan

Senior Member
Messages
1,325
If it holds up , I will paint. If the Bronze fails, just melt it apart -tap the excess liquid off, then try the nickel silver -the blue fluxed rod.- its about 80-85 k tensile.- less ductility though. Thing thats time consumeing bout brazing butt joints, The butts should be flush enough that a piece of paper can barely fit - Tack the part on one side- then pull the joint down flush with wire tru the table-then tack agan. Yea, with a flame and the correct filler metal you can join unlike metals- copper to steel, stainless steel to lo-carbon steel- ect. Trick is- its all about learning to read the flame on the torch. You tube is a really big help to see what a netural-excess aceteline, carbonizing, ect-ect- flame is supposed to look like.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Gotta love YouTube! Even if I thinke I know something I check out YouTube for better techniques or ideas.
 

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
alfred e numan said:
If it holds up , I will paint. If the Bronze fails, just melt it apart -tap the excess liquid off, then try the nickel silver -the blue fluxed rod.- its about 80-85 k tensile.- less ductility though. Thing thats time consumeing bout brazing butt joints, The butts should be flush enough that a piece of paper can barely fit - Tack the part on one side- then pull the joint down flush with wire tru the table-then tack agan. Yea, with a flame and the correct filler metal you can join unlike metals- copper to steel, stainless steel to lo-carbon steel- ect. Trick is- its all about learning to read the flame on the torch. You tube is a really big help to see what a netural-excess aceteline, carbonizing, ect-ect- flame is supposed to look like.
Curious to hear how it holds up.
 

alfred e numan

Senior Member
Messages
1,325
Yesterday I ran 3 tanks of gas tru the car. mostly on rough terrain. Rolled it one time, hooked the l-r tire on a piece of plywood another time- went end over end -landed on its wheels. Gave the 29 a proper reving on the asphalt for 1 tank of gas- it got really hot. On a cold or warm engine I put my knee on the pipe to pull the rip cord, so far its worthy. The way the mounts are set up- loosen the rear hose clamp- and can slide the pipe 1" back and forth. Header length adjustment.- This pipe seems to pull harder off the bottom than the jet-pro rear mount with little loss @ high rpm.-
 

alfred e numan

Senior Member
Messages
1,325
Yea, its a first effort at doing this sort of thing. Just returned from a 1 tank run. Its high noon, things have been put off- Last night I bolted up a 771. same 3/4" stack-filter-pipe-This carb was left bone stock. It uses about 1/3 less fuel than the 813-990.- This could be good news for the racers out there with the xb-s little tank- Also mixed up 16 fluid ounces of Klotz super techniplate @ 32-1. 1/2 oz oil. There was more than one change made so I cannot really compare fairly. I will say though, The Klotz runs cleaner- the plug color is a nice tan color on top end- lugging the car at low speed back to the house, checked plug agan- same nice tan color. The 927 never did this.- The klotz says its 20% BeNol- with a r- evedently its has a patent.- the other 80% is Synthetic.- zero smoke once the engine is hot. Frankly, It makes running the car a whole lot more pleasurable.- I gotta wonder if the 813-990-s high speed fuel check valve messes things up with a tall velocity stack- The 771 -the reves came up, and uses less fuel too. just a guess---
 
G

Guest

Guest
771 huh. That's interesting. It still has the same size bore & venturi. The differences between these carbs are so minute, it confuses the heck out of me.

Gotta love the smokeless synthetic oils!
 

alfred e numan

Senior Member
Messages
1,325
The 990-813 have the brass fitting in the carb bore-high speed fuel nozzle with a one way check valve. The 771 is like the 668-others- just a hole in the bore.- no choke on the 771. I am guessing that this 771 meters less fuel than the hot rod carbs-990-813. The 771 shure runs well on a smaller engine-CY-29.But on a ported 30.5? - only one way to know! Also, up north in the colder months the 990 seems to run better on the stock ported engines I use- In the summer months-from about 80 degrees and up- it goes rich. Yea, there are lots of factors involved- Pump gas is changed 2 time each year- summer blend-winter blend- Then there is also the darned ethanol to contend with too- this leans out a engine.- I do these engines the same as the dirt bikes- Have a standard -stable baseline for fuel- On a 16 oz 32-1 mix, 10 fluid ounces of non ethanol 91 octane- 6 fluid ounces of VP-110 c race gas. I talked to a guy via e-mail months ago- Sunoco race gas salesman- He is into 1/5th- said there is a type of gas that is ideal for these engines- higher octane than pump gas- but not excessive- formulated to burn faster than the 1-1 race car gas- I will do some digging and try to see what the part # for this stuff was.
 

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
alfred e numan said:
Yesterday I ran 3 tanks of gas tru the car. mostly on rough terrain. Rolled it one time, hooked the l-r tire on a piece of plywood another time- went end over end -landed on its wheels. Gave the 29 a proper reving on the asphalt for 1 tank of gas- it got really hot. On a cold or warm engine I put my knee on the pipe to pull the rip cord, so far its worthy. The way the mounts are set up- loosen the rear hose clamp- and can slide the pipe 1" back and forth. Header length adjustment.- This pipe seems to pull harder off the bottom than the jet-pro rear mount with little loss @ high rpm.-
Awesome. Love that you can adjust the header length!
 

alfred e numan

Senior Member
Messages
1,325
Yea, I seem to always be trading carbs back and forth- The 813 was reinstalled about an hour ago- I increased the size of the U shape on the butterfly valve yet agan. Looking closely at the hole on the 813 where the accelator pump piston goes into the carb body- The teflon gasket misses about 50% of this hole.- not good. It allows every piese of trail trash to go directly in- this will hog out the shaft-carb body in short order.- soo- assembled as usual- broke out the automotive goop- very carefully let the goop thicken some- then sealed this hole off - took care to not let this goop not get close to the throttle shaft.-Now, its gotta cure. thats ok, I have to go to the tricities anyways- haul off a metal carport to the scrapper- make a few quick bucks- pick up a concrete atitive, portland cement-then apply this stuff in the basement corner walls where the wood stoves gonna go- have to figure out how to get a 6' hole tru concrete blocks too- any ideas? Yea, check out the hole on the 813- this is no doubt a big factor in the throttle shaft-carb body premature failures.
 

Deluge

Senior Member
Messages
7,900
Location
Tucson, Arizona
alfred e numan said:
Yea, I seem to always be trading carbs back and forth- The 813 was reinstalled about an hour ago- I increased the size of the U shape on the butterfly valve yet agan. Looking closely at the hole on the 813 where the accelator pump piston goes into the carb body- The teflon gasket misses about 50% of this hole.- not good. It allows every piese of trail trash to go directly in- this will hog out the shaft-carb body in short order.- soo- assembled as usual- broke out the automotive goop- very carefully let the goop thicken some- then sealed this hole off - took care to not let this goop not get close to the throttle shaft.-Now, its gotta cure. thats ok, I have to go to the tricities anyways- haul off a metal carport to the scrapper- make a few quick bucks- pick up a concrete atitive, portland cement-then apply this stuff in the basement corner walls where the wood stoves gonna go- have to figure out how to get a 6' hole tru concrete blocks too- any ideas? Yea, check out the hole on the 813- this is no doubt a big factor in the throttle shaft-carb body premature failures.
Yep. That's the main issue with the 813.
 

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