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Couple problems with new Rampage MT

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Hello Im new to this forum and Redcat MT PRO but Im not new to 5th scale gas vehicles. Ive had nothing but problems with this truck from stock tuned pipe braking, servos broke, roll cage broke, drive pins falling out (loctite), etc. Redcat has been sending me parts since I got the vehicle. this is the second one I had to return the first one because it wont start.


QUESTION #1
Has anyone had to adjust the aluminum roll cage so that the stock tuned pipe (S Shape) would have enough clearance so that when it vibrates it does not rattle against the aluminum metal cage???? Im having a hard time trying to clear it. if i bend slightly then it wont fit and line up to go in the truck.


QUESTION #2
What is needed (outside of a new more powerful engine) for this thing to actually run with some power? because right now its just basically slow moving. Ive had at least 4 tanks of gas thru it now. If i attempt wide open throttle theres just a lot of noise and slow. It seems to have hella torque but no top end speed. Itll climb the hell out of a mound. Any help appreciated.

Thx
 

Dusty

Well-Known Member
Messages
84
The redcat tuned pipe for these suck man (thin aluminum )a DDM pipe or jet pro is way better performance and durability wise ( steel pipes) I bought mine chrome finish with small blemish I had to search the pipe to even see for $119 .a $50 saving & no messing up your cage . the pro is a nice looking rig but the v3 regular and the use of that extra $450 would have given you better aftermarket upgrade . I’m new to this rampage MT myself but have done a lot of reading through the group . Their servos aren’t the best ( my next upgrade ) I can’t remember where it is but there is a post from @Woody that recommends starter upgrades . Did you loose the pins at the hubs or diffs either way I loctite then used 3/4” shrink tube over the cup and then slid losi cv boots over the top of them with grease to cut down metal on metal ware from pins to cups . No pin lost yet . Pull every screw that’s screws to metal and loctite . And check screws to plastic regularly . If you do loose a screw look up Tony’s screws .com they have hardware for pennies compared to getting them from redcat .
 

G-Man

Junior Member
Messages
958
Location
Pittsburgh,PA
A 990 or 1107 Walbro carb will help the stock engine along with a good steel pipe. Jetpro or Ddm racing's Dominator are good ones. Putting that pipe on will eliminate two of your issues at once, more power and it won't hit the cage anymore.
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Thanks for the replies Dusty and G-Man. Hopefully others chime in. Im new here and would like to get different perspectives.

In the meantime I took a dremmel to the aluminum roll cage to give the tuned pipe some clearance not sure how thats going to workout yet. If it will break at the first sign of stress due to the grinding out of the rollcage for the clearance.

I hear lot of good things regarding power about the two pipes (dominator and jetpro) you mentioned but to be honest them things look hideous. I don't care how much chrome they put on it lol. I put time in and painted two bodies now I have to basically cut half of oneside of the body off to fit this monstrosity?!!! LOL!!! Isnt there any other pipes out there with close to same performance that will fit under the body or at least not stick out like sore leg? LOL!!

I dnt know maybe they'll (the look) grow on me after awhile.


Thanks again
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Thanks for the replies Dusty and G-Man. Hopefully others chime in. Im new here and would like to get different perspectives.

In the meantime I took a dremmel to the aluminum roll cage to give the tuned pipe some clearance not sure how thats going to workout yet. If it will break at the first sign of stress due to the grinding out of the rollcage for the clearance.

I hear lot of good things regarding power about the two pipes (dominator and jetpro) you mentioned but to be honest them things look hideous. I don't care how much chrome they put on it lol. I put time in and painted two bodies now I have to basically cut half of oneside of the body off to fit this monstrosity?!!! LOL!!! Isnt there any other pipes out there with close to same performance that will fit under the body or at least not stick out like sore leg? LOL!!

I dnt know maybe they'll (the look) grow on me after awhile.


Thanks again

Get a jetpro rear mount.
I hate the side mounts too.
That aluminium stock pipe is going to break no matter what you do.
Pity you weakened the cage for it.
 

G-Man

Junior Member
Messages
958
Location
Pittsburgh,PA
I agree with @Phil. That pipe is not gonna last. The cage should last the life of the rig. I wasn't a fan of the side mount pipe either, but I took into fact how I use it. I jump the crap out of it and had fear of ripping the rear mount jetpro off landing. So I went side mount ddm dominator with the thought of it being protected in between those big tires. Which it is. But on the Dunerunner I have, I put the rear mount on it and jump it without issues.
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Thanks for added input guys. Well I went ahead and ordered the DDM Dominator pipe because i could not find the jetpro rear mount. I guess ill get use to this thing sticking out the side eventually. Should be here by weekend but now truck just keeps shutting off after a minute of idle. Always an adventure with this thing. I hope to get it back running before DDM pipe gets here. Im staying away from messing with the needle settings. I thought i understood what did what but theres no consistency as to the response of the needles in my experience. Just when i think i have it figured out it does something else.

Any input as to what I can do would be greatly appreciated.
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Thanks for added input guys. Well I went ahead and ordered the DDM Dominator pipe because i could not find the jetpro rear mount. I guess ill get use to this thing sticking out the side eventually. Should be here by weekend but now truck just keeps shutting off after a minute of idle. Always an adventure with this thing. I hope to get it back running before DDM pipe gets here. Im staying away from messing with the needle settings. I thought i understood what did what but theres no consistency as to the response of the needles in my experience. Just when i think i have it figured out it does something else.

Any input as to what I can do would be greatly appreciated.

The needles are easy.
Out is richer - in is leaner.
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
The needles are easy.
Out is richer - in is leaner.

Thx Phil what does that equate to as far as revs or how engine responds to the different changes?

Which one Is it ?
Out is richer = Higher Revs or Lower Revs?
In is leaner = Higher Revs or Lower Revs?

Just making note so I can use this going fwd as a standard. Thx
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Thx Phil what does that equate to as far as revs or how engine responds to the different changes?

Which one Is it ?
Out is richer = Higher Revs or Lower Revs?
In is leaner = Higher Revs or Lower Revs?

Just making note so I can use this going fwd as a standard. Thx

It doesn't work quite that way.
If the engine is bogging down it's too rich so you screw it in.
If it's popping it's too lean so you screw it out.
You adjust the LSN by listening to the revs while it's idling.
You screw it in until the revs peak then screw it back out just a tiny bit or it will be too lean.
The HSN you have to do by eye.
If it seems and is bogging at full throttle slow lean it a little and if it's the opposite richen it a little.
Use VERY small adjudstments - about 1/16th of a turn each time until you're happy with it.
It's hard to put into writing so try this vid by OBR
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Also if it is a stock carb, they can be finicky. I got mine as close as I could and ran it man.

I think that's what we all do.
I fitted a tacho to mine on the weekend but haven't had a chance to start it yet to see if it works.
If it does it will help with tuning.
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
I think that's what we all do.
I fitted a tacho to mine on the weekend but haven't had a chance to start it yet to see if it works.
If it does it will help with tuning.


Thx Guys. I thought this forum would have a bunch of folks replying. not that I dnt value you guys input but you guys seem to be the only ones answering. Definitely appreciate it though.

Latest problem...
Installed 8000 clutch while waiting on Dominator pipe. Took it out the other day it started but cut off after about 2 minutes. Did not start after that. Not kick starting at all. Came home today thinking maybe it just needed to dry out. No starty at all now. Everythings put back together properly. I am getting spark. don't have a clue what it is. Plus it started so i know everythings back together.

Not sure if these things are an issue but im reaching for answers here at this point:
- Full tank of Gas has been in there for about 4 days now. Dnt know if this is can cause this issue
- Used piston stop while changing clutch spring; Ive heard they can damage the piston???? I dnt know still reaching plus it did start but it cut out
- Carb settings: I didnt dare touch it from what it was while it was running; sooooooo, dnt know man

Well its sitting there looking at me; im sitting there looking at it...

NO. IM NOT GOING TO SELL IT!!!!! LOL!!! (at least not at this point) Im on a mission to get this working one way or another. Im not forking over anymore money though. just ridiculous, brand new truck SMH. I wish I had stories like some of these folks out running. unfortunately nope. Was only able to have one session of running for about 20min after which steering servo went kaput.

Thx for the vid. ive looked at it sometime ago but forgot the details so its always good for as refresher. One question. Which way was he turning the idle screw??? I couldnt tell from the angle.


Anyways as always any input would be appreciated

Thx
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Thx Guys. I thought this forum would have a bunch of folks replying. not that I dnt value you guys input but you guys seem to be the only ones answering. Definitely appreciate it thoug

Did you disconnect the fuel lines?
Sounds like they cold be reversed.

Latest problem...
Installed 8000 clutch while waiting on Dominator pipe. Took it out the other day it started but cut off after about 2 minutes. Did not start after that. Not kick starting at all. Came home today thinking maybe it just needed to dry out. No starty at all now. Everythings put back together properly. I am getting spark. don't have a clue what it is. Plus it started so i know everythings back together.

Not sure if these things are an issue but im reaching for answers here at this point:
- Full tank of Gas has been in there for about 4 days now. Dnt know if this is can cause this issue
- Used piston stop while changing clutch spring; Ive heard they can damage the piston???? I dnt know still reaching plus it did start but it cut out
- Carb settings: I didnt dare touch it from what it was while it was running; sooooooo, dnt know man

Well its sitting there looking at me; im sitting there looking at it...

NO. IM NOT GOING TO SELL IT!!!!! LOL!!! (at least not at this point) Im on a mission to get this working one way or another. Im not forking over anymore money though. just ridiculous, brand new truck SMH. I wish I had stories like some of these folks out running. unfortunately nope. Was only able to have one session of running for about 20min after which steering servo went kaput.

Thx for the vid. ive looked at it sometime ago but forgot the details so its always good for as refresher. One question. Which way was he turning the idle screw??? I couldnt tell from the angle.


Anyways as always any input would be appreciated

Thx

Did you disconnect the fuel lines?
Sounds like they could be on backwards.
 

sunoco

Well-Known Member
Messages
169
just wanted to jump in for a moment-- Jet pro owner-factory is in Spokane, Washington- life time warranty.-- just search jetpro exhaust- spokane, wa.-- has a phone number, you can really talk to owner. Very fair shipping to overseas buyers also-- some day, i very much want to take a drive there- its about 100 miles distant--
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Also wanted to add earlier when I tried to start it and it wont start. I removed the spark plug. Its getting spark but it was also dry. which is weird because i thought it wint start because it was flooded from me pulling on it about 10-15 times. I made sure to prime the bulb as i always do.

I p;lan to ry it again tomorrow and try to start by spraying some starter fluid see if that works. Any input that could get this bad boy going is welcomed.

thx
 

sunoco

Well-Known Member
Messages
169
does the gasoline cap have a vent hole to allow air into the gas tank? the factory set up sometimes will not permit air into the tank as the gas is being used-- this creates stalling- unstable running.. also- i have seen factory stock in than fuel filters messed up- not allow gas to the carb--discconnect the lower gas line from the carb, blow into it- see if it allows air to move- the factory gas cap venting system is a 1 way valve, an ummbrella valve- however its spelled- its best to have a hole in the gastank cap- this allows free flow of air both directions cars to clean to photo, gotta actually see the gas hose though-- FILTER - VENT 001.JPG

factory stock in gas tank gas filters being messed up-- not allowing gas to carb.---- my fingers are built for shovels- chain saws- dirt bikes- not a keyboard---
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Hey Sunoco
I checked the fuel line like you said and no blockage. And no i don't have the vented cap yet.

I took off filter carb and exhaust to look at piston. no scoring or grooves. IM reaching here biut doesn't seem to be the same amount of compression

Thx
 

sunoco

Well-Known Member
Messages
169
if you removed the carb-- you need to be aware -- there is a small round hole on the gasket. this hole needs to be on the lower side- towards the ground- chassis of the car- this hole allows the carbs built in fuel pump to operate. - when these engines have no fuel in them - they will not have as much compression- as soon as they get fuel mix in the engine- they become harder to crank-- the feel of the pull starter can tell whats going on -- when its so hard to pull that the car almost comes off the ground-- the feel of the starter is telling you the the engine is flooded really bad-- you will get the hang of it in time-----
 

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