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Couple problems with new Rampage MT

sunoco

Well-Known Member
Messages
169
There is another fuel filter on these carbs we all use.-- FIRST- do not use carb cleaner. go to wal-mart. automotive area. buy a spray can- make shure the red tube is taped to the can--- CRC ELECTRONIC CLEANER,- 5 dollars. On the bottom of these carbs, there is a large bolt. When you remove the bolt and are holding the carb with you other hand- do not squeeze the brass throttle shaft- it bends easly.-- Remove bolt- carefully remove thin plate the bolt goes tru. the thick gasket is on the thin plate with hole for bolt.-- On the main carb body, there is a very thin materal with 2 cutouts- flappers- this is the fuel pump.-- mark with felt pen on the fuel pump - the one with the 2 flapper valves- so you do not reassemble this fuel pump diaphram upside down-- on the main carb body- you will see a round screen- do not remove it.-- just spray it with the crc electronic cleaner if you see dirt- other junk on the screen-- crc electronic cleaner is harmless- use all you want- In order-- reinstall thin carb fuel pump diaphram to main carb body-- then reinstall the thicker gasket- install bolt- tighten well and tight-- a big good fitting flat blade screwdriver tightens better--agan- as you hold carb with other hand- do not sqeeze the ends of the brass throttle shaft- it bends easly--- DO NOT mess with the purge bulb area- not yet.-- if more folks want me to-- i will explain in detail how to do this-- its not like the fuel pump for some nasa secret area 51 site-- its a simple single little carb. better lear this than spend 50-75 bucks everytime the car screws up-- it all part of the fun of learning----- look at my avatar- one fine day-- i will learn to cut my own hair--
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Hello Sunoco
Appreciate all ur input and Im learning more as I go. So still been trying to figure this thing out over the weekend. tried it again but still nothing. I was hoping maybe it drying out might give different result. I think i have everything thats needed: spark, compression (where i thought there was none before), fuel just no start. I also tried richening (out) the LSN a lil bit. NADA!!!

Yeah i learned about that small hole before and my gasket has holes on top and bottom so im pretty sure its lining up. I also blow out the hole just to make sure its clear.


Not sure man any other things you anyone can have me try Im open. BTW I went ahead and got the DDM Dominator pipe on the blemish sale along with a couple other parts and was going to try it to see if it improved my engine performance but now the truck wont start LOL!!! So I didnt even get a chance to install and try it out. Now Ive got parts sitting here until i can get this no start issue resolved.

Thx

Previously running Brand New MT Pro

There is another fuel filter on these carbs we all use.-- FIRST- do not use carb cleaner. go to wal-mart. automotive area. buy a spray can- make shure the red tube is taped to the can--- CRC ELECTRONIC CLEANER,- 5 dollars. On the bottom of these carbs, there is a large bolt. When you remove the bolt and are holding the carb with you other hand- do not squeeze the brass throttle shaft- it bends easly.-- Remove bolt- carefully remove thin plate the bolt goes tru. the thick gasket is on the thin plate with hole for bolt.-- On the main carb body, there is a very thin materal with 2 cutouts- flappers- this is the fuel pump.-- mark with felt pen on the fuel pump - the one with the 2 flapper valves- so you do not reassemble this fuel pump diaphram upside down-- on the main carb body- you will see a round screen- do not remove it.-- just spray it with the crc electronic cleaner if you see dirt- other junk on the screen-- crc electronic cleaner is harmless- use all you want- In order-- reinstall thin carb fuel pump diaphram to main carb body-- then reinstall the thicker gasket- install bolt- tighten well and tight-- a big good fitting flat blade screwdriver tightens better--agan- as you hold carb with other hand- do not sqeeze the ends of the brass throttle shaft- it bends easly--- DO NOT mess with the purge bulb area- not yet.-- if more folks want me to-- i will explain in detail how to do this-- its not like the fuel pump for some nasa secret area 51 site-- its a simple single little carb. better lear this than spend 50-75 bucks everytime the car screws up-- it all part of the fun of learning----- look at my avatar- one fine day-- i will learn to cut my own hair--



Yes please do post details on how to service these carbs.
I think this is where Im lacking knowledge of the inner workings on these walbro carbs. And its frustrating because this is where the majority of my problems have been in the past. Also knowing how properly tune them. Yes Ive seen the OBR tuning video:)

And thx for the steps so far.
 
Last edited:

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Thanks for follow up question. To be honest I have not really been on here because this had me so pissed and frustrated. Anyways I sent of the engine back to redcat which I had to pay for shipping. They said they found that the piston ring was loose or something and that was causing loss of compression. So theyre sending me a new engine replacement. So I basically had to rebuild this truck from top to bottom. Only thing that has not been replaced are the chassis, diffs and suspension. Still waiting on engine to arrive. Wish me luck!!!

Hopefully I have better luck with this engine. Does anyone know about the 32cc engine that comes on these as far as specs??? HP? Revs?? Torque vs Speed?? Id like to know.

Thx
 
Last edited:

Dusty

Well-Known Member
Messages
84
Thanks for follow up question. To be honest I have not really been on here because this had me so pissed and frustrated. Anyways I sent of the engine back to redcat which I had to pay for shipping. They said they found that the piston ring was loose or something and that was causing loss of compression. So theyre sending me a new engine replacement. So I basically had to rebuild this truck from top to bottom. Only thing that has not been replaced are the chassis, diffs and suspension. Still waiting on engine to arrive. Wish me luck!!!

Hopefully I have better luck with this engine. Does anyone know about the 32cc engine that comes on these as far as specs??? HP? Revs?? Torque vs Speed?? Id like to know.

Thx


Hope you have a better second go around after you get your motor back to man . I’ll be pulling mine this weekend to ship back to redcat for lose of compression as well . I’m looking to change my motor though .
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Hope you have a better second go around after you get your motor back to man . I’ll be pulling mine this weekend to ship back to redcat for lose of compression as well . I’m looking to change my motor though .

IMHO you can't beat a Zenoah.
I ditched the factory motor very early on.
 

Dusty

Well-Known Member
Messages
84
IMHO you can't beat a Zenoah.
I ditched the factory motor very early on.

My factory motor will be sitting around for a spare actually Phill . I’ve already purchased another motor . I bought an OBR full mod built g320 +2 stoker with a TR/OBR billet crankcase . With their lead time for building the motor I should have it early next week . OBR lists it as a G340rc w/7.9 hp without a tuned pipe or any other mods .
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
My factory motor destroyed itself very early.(30.5cc Fuellie 2 bolt)
I may buy a 4 bolt long motor in the future and use the parts off it for a future project.
With all that HP you'll be looking to beef up the gear train but it should scream.
 

Dusty

Well-Known Member
Messages
84
My factory motor destroyed itself very early.(30.5cc Fuellie 2 bolt)
I may buy a 4 bolt long motor in the future and use the parts off it for a future project.
With all that HP you'll be looking to beef up the gear train but it should scream.

The gearing is where I’m at a lose ... I know I’ll be needing to do better gears than what redcat provides but not sure who makes better gearing that will work in the diffs or for transfer gear. I’m thinking of going belt for main transmission but hear belt is great for mid to top end but a bit boggy for low end . The +2 stoker is a more of a torque set up than a top end build . So not sure which way I’ll be going . Guess I’ll figure all that out as I tear up gears lol ?
 

Dusty

Well-Known Member
Messages
84
I will change out tires in time too ... proline 43’s with adapters in near future . But they will be down the road a little bit . The stock tires balloon like crazy on road with stock motor . Im hoping to shred them then the wife won’t have as much to say if I need tires sooner than later ! ?
Thanks for the info on belt system . I’m probably going that route ... $4-5 belts will be way cheaper than $25-$30 sets of gears
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Lots of good info guys thx.

Phil you mentioned having to upgrade what will I need to upgrade? Im looking at getting the OBR myself. Im guessing the stock drive hsafts are too skinnny to handle the power from an OBR 320/340 correct? What is recommended to upgrade if getting an OBR with that added power?

- drive shafts (you mentioned 10mm, where can i get those?)
- gearing (to what??)
- Diffs?? What do you recommend??

Thx
 

Dusty

Well-Known Member
Messages
84
Thos
Lots of good info guys thx.

Phil you mentioned having to upgrade what will I need to upgrade? Im looking at getting the OBR myself. Im guessing the stock drive hsafts are too skinnny to handle the power from an OBR 320/340 correct? What is recommended to upgrade if getting an OBR with that added power?

- drive shafts (you mentioned 10mm, where can i get those?)
- gearing (to what??)
- Diffs?? What do you recommend??

Thx

The 10mm shafts @Phill was talking about are the transmission pully shafts on the belt drive conversions that aren’t the right size . Redcat trans pulpy shafts have to be 8mm to fit the trans gear plate .

I’m looking for heavier drive lines and diff cups and I’ll pass the info if I find some ... I’m not as much worried about the shafts honestly ... redcat has pretty stout shafts . It’s more the diff cups and diff gears I’m concerned with . The pins on the dog bone will be putting a lot of torque to the notch in the cups where they rest .
 

Wayne

Member
Messages
101
Location
Maryland
Put a collar on the cups to increase their durability. You can go to your local hardware and get copper plumber's pipe or you can purchase carbon or aluminum tubing and cut your own collars. 7075RC sells his diff and drive cups with a collar installed. There are some sites on the internet where you can purchase carbon or aluminum tubing. You may want to check DGI. The collar definitely helps.
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Put a collar on the cups to increase their durability. You can go to your local hardware and get copper plumber's pipe or you can purchase carbon or aluminum tubing and cut your own collars. 7075RC sells his diff and drive cups with a collar installed. There are some sites on the internet where you can purchase carbon or aluminum tubing. You may want to check DGI. The collar definitely helps.

All good stuff Wayne.
I would add make sure you get the black MT cups.
I've found the bronze coloured ones to be very brittle.
@pfrederi1
Dusty is correct about the transmission pulley shafts.
Some belt drives are made for the Reely Carbon Fighter and they have 10mm shafts so the pulleys won't fit the Redcat unless you sleeve them back to 8mm.
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
LOL!!!! I gotta laugh. After eagerly waiting I received replacement engine from redcat. Same deal. I tried starting. It poppd one time but thats it. Not starting. I think its the same engine I sent back but not sure. I shouldve marked it. They said the piston ring was loose and that was causing loss of compression.

Checked my needle settings the HI was set at 1 1/8(wrong) and the LO was set at 1 1/4 (correct) so I set the HI to 11/2 and tried to start. It popped one time but that was it. These engines seem to be so sensitive that if all the stars arent aligned and you dnt do a rain dance they wont start. Im not sure what else to do honestly. Im letting it sit overnight and try again tomorrow. They should not sell these things with engines they should sell as a kit and have people choose their engines because this is ridiculous.

Im hesitant to prime the bulb because i think this is flooding it prematurely. When it popped that one time i did not prime the bulb but its still not starting. I dunno, just dunno what to do.
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
LOL!!!! I gotta laugh. After eagerly waiting I received replacement engine from redcat. Same deal. I tried starting. It poppd one time but thats it. Not starting. I think its the same engine I sent back but not sure. I shouldve marked it. They said the piston ring was loose and that was causing loss of compression.

Checked my needle settings the HI was set at 1 1/8(wrong) and the LO was set at 1 1/4 (correct) so I set the HI to 11/2 and tried to start. It popped one time but that was it. These engines seem to be so sensitive that if all the stars arent aligned and you dnt do a rain dance they wont start. Im not sure what else to do honestly. Im letting it sit overnight and try again tomorrow. They should not sell these things with engines they should sell as a kit and have people choose their engines because this is ridiculous.

Im hesitant to prime the bulb because i think this is flooding it prematurely. When it popped that one time i did not prime the bulb but its still not starting. I dunno, just dunno what to do.

G'day mate
I feel for you as I've been through exactly the same at the start.
It doesn't matter how many times you pump the bulb as it doesn't put fuel into the carby.
It just makes it available for the carby to suck in.
The tried and true method is 2 pulls with the choke on then whether it pops or not turn the choke off and continue to pull til it starts.
You've got more patience than me.
I chucked the stock motor very early on and put a Zenoah in.
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Thx Phil. That simple advice seems to have worked (along with me having to adjust the idfle as well). Pull twice and regardless if it pops or not turn off choke and keep pulling...

Working now. Although I also had to adjust (turn in) the IDLE as well but seems to be working now. Ive always kept pulling until i get a pop then turn the choke off. Much Thx
 

Phill

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,453
Location
The Rock QLD Au
Thx Phil. That simple advice seems to have worked (along with me having to adjust the idfle as well). Pull twice and regardless if it pops or not turn off choke and keep pulling...

Working now. Although I also had to adjust (turn in) the IDLE as well but seems to be working now. Ive always kept pulling until i get a pop then turn the choke off. Much Thx

No worries mate.
I used to do the same when I first got mine and kept flooding it.
Thankfully I found this forum and got the answer here.
Without this forum I probably would be using my DR as a boat anchor.
 

pfrederi1

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
Hey Phil\Anyone
I ran about couple tanks breaking in new engine. Took it out to run yesterday. moves slow with Loud exhaust but no get up go. Crawls basically. Ive tore down and put back drive gears because it was acting like a loose set screw on the pinion gear but that was not the issue (stripped a couple screws for my efforts trying to tear it down; will have to figure out how to get those out later. I had to find a work around to take out what i needed to). If anyone knows where I can get the screws that bolts the transmission gears and brake brace to the chassis please let me knw. Also checked to make truck rolls freely if i push it no binding of brakes or gears.

Any Ideas??? Clutch maybe. Im not sure how to test if clutch is having a problem. It does move but slow. I installed an 8000rpm clutch spring as soon as i got the engine back. Almost there. I can see the finish line Lol.
 

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